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Dassazoum

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What makes Dassa Zoumé, the 'city of 41 hills', so interesting are the awesome rock formations overshadowing the town's sleepy streets. Every August, Catholic pilgrims pay a visit to La Grotte (cave), which is where the Virgin Mary is said to have to appeared. Behind the cave, a short walk leads to the thirteen shrines hidden among the rocks.

There is an evenings-only Internet café and a Bank of Africa in town, and plenty of cheap food stalls lining the main road.

Auberge de Dassa Zoumé (S)/fax 22 53 00 98; www.hotels-benln.com; camping per person CFA2500, s/d with fan CFA10,000/11,000, with air-con CFA14,000/16,000) The best hotel in town, opposite the rond-point (roundabout) on the major highway. The camping pitches and excellent restaurant (meals CFA3800 to CFA4000) overlooking an ostrich farm.

Auberge Le Cachet (®)22 53 02 11; r shared bathroom CFA4500, r with bathroom CFA5000) Situated near the hospital, this small, rustic hotel has bog-standard rooms and a great restaurant (meals CFA1500).