Sightseeing
Basilica di San Marco p61 Palazzo Ducale p67 Museo Correr p70 Legatoria Piazzesi p158 Vivaldi Store p158 Godi Fiorenza p156 Gallerie dell'Accademia p75 Peggy Guggenheim Collection p79 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute p80 BAC Art Studio p159 Ca'Macana p159 Le Forcole di Saverio Pastor p159 San Polo amp Santa Croce Santa Crose Scuola Grande di San Rocco p87 Rialto p84 Atelier PietroLonghi pi61 Gilberto Penzo tp 160 Ghetto p92 Ca'd'Oro p91 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli p91 Jesurum Outlet...
Secret Itineraries
Lesser known areas of the Palazzo Ducale, including the original Prigioni Vecchie Old Prisons , can be visited on the Itinerari Segreti Secret Itineraries tou 041 520 90 70 adult child under 6 student 16 free 7 tours in English 9.55am, 10.45am amp 11.35am, Italian 9.30am amp 11.10am, French 10.20am, noon amp 12.25pm . Bookticketsahead for the tour at the Palazzo Ducale ticket desk or online see Special Tickets, . The 1' 2-hour tour is an intriguing look at the underside of the palace and the...
AL BOTTEGON CANTINA DI VINI GlA SCHI AVI Map ppBar
041 523 00 34 Fondamenta Maravegie 992 h 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat f Zattere Wander into this fusty wine bar across from the Chiesa di San Trovaso for a prosecco beneath the bar's low rafters and in the light provided by dodgy bulbs. Alternatively, buy a bottle of whatever takes your fancy and take it away. The place has been known to stay open longer than the advertised times, and the panini sandwiches are great if your tummy's rumbling. 041 71 09 25 Calle dei Preti 3805 h 7am-2am Mon-Sat f San...
Bar Dandolo
041 522 64 80 Riva degli Schiavoni 4196 h 9.30am-12.30am f San Zaccaria You may never be able to stay in Venice's grand old dame of hotels, but you can sip a spr 'fz 10 or cocktail 18 to 22 in this plush piano bar on the ground floor. Waiters will serve up some nibbles with your tipple and then you sit back in absorb the whimsical decor and keep you eye out for the occasional celeb. 041 523 53 00 Calle Mondo Novo 5787 h5pm-1.30am Tue-Sun f Rialto This is a good, old, slightly gloomy...
Laboratorio Occupato Morion
041 520 84 37 Calle di Morion 2951 h 9pm-1am Wed, 9pm-2am Fri-Sat f Celestia Want to dive into a little counter-culture This oversized squat and social centre organises occasional concerts featuring bands from around the Veneto. Watch out for the posters around town to see what's coming up. VENICE JAZZ CLUB Map pp76-7 Live Music 041 523 20 56 or 3401504985 www.venice jazzclub.com Fondamenta dello Squero, Dorsoduro 3102 admission 15 incl a drink h concerts 6-9pm Mon, Wed, Fri amp Sat bar...
Terrazzamare
0421 37 0012 www.terrazzamare.com, in Italian Vicolo Faro 1, Lido di Jesolo admission 15 h 10.30pm-4am Tue-Sat Apr-Sep bus 10a, taxi Sitting on a beach at the southern end of Lido di Jesolo near the lighthouse is this classic self-described 'theatre-bar'. Music thumps into the night, and punters often groove in the sand. Theme nights dot the summer calendar. METRO VENEZIAMaPP121 041 538 42 99 www.metroclub.it Via Cappuc-cina 82b, Mestre admission 15 h 2pm-2am train, night bus N2 This is...
The Infamy Of Famagusta
Keep an eye out for the monument to Marcantonio Bragadin in the Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e Paolo. It is on the wall of the southern aisle, virtually opposite the westernmost pillar. The monument is singular for its content, rather than for any artistic merit. Venetian-born Bragadin was the commander of the Famagusta garrison in Cyprus, the last to fall to the Turks in 1570. Promised honourable terms of surrender after having endured a long siege, Bragadin decided to call on the Turkish commander...
Sestiere Di San Marco 1
This is the core of old Venice, where the highest class of city shopping is concentrated. You'll find high-end Italian fashion all the names are there, from Armani to Zegna in the area on and around Frezzaria, but also some wonderful local one-offs where you can order anything from frilly hats to tailor-made shirts, not to forget jewellery from the frivolous to the frighteningly expensive . Sestiere di San Marco also offers a good sprinkling of art galleries, antique stores and the like, while...
Stop The Pigeons
If you get the impression that there are more pigeons in Piazza San Marco than inhabitants in the whole of Venice, you're right. Officials estimate the pesky pigeon population at around 100,000 but how do you count them . Tests have shown that around 15 of the flock have salmonella and can pass it on to their hapless human victims. The handful of birdseed vendors pay about 100,000 each for the licence to feed the flying rats and throngs of tourists delight in allowing birdies to poop on their...
SESTIERI Dl SAN POLO SANTA CRCE SANTA CRSE
Tucked away in all sorts of cornel's of these ses-fieriyou'll stumble across cosy Venetian restaurants, the city 's sole Indian redoubt, some of the oldest and most genuine of osterie and the city's lone Michelin-star splurge The Rialto area has become the busiest nightlife spot in town and most of the busy bars serve good food. DA FIORE Map pp84 5 Refined Venetian 041 72 13 08 Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2202 meals 180-200 h Tue-Sat f San Stae The unprepossessing shopfront appearance belies...
The Cocktail Circuit
Back in the 1950s, behind the bar at Harry's, a new sensation was born. It was deceptively simple mix prosecco with peach nectar, and you have a Bellini. Of course, they will tell you there is more to it than that - the quality of the ingredients and, more importantly, the proportions. Whatever - it is good. You don't have to shell out the 12 for one at Harry's Bar, as Bellinis and other cocktails are popular at aperitivo time that loose early-evening, predinner period all over town. Still, if...
Maps
You should be able to get by with the maps in this book, but some of those on sale are also good. The free one handed out by the tourist office is next to useless. Whichever map of the city you buy, you will find inconsistencies. The Venezianizzazi-one Venetianisation of street names has created more problems than it could ever have solved. Most maps take a haphazard approach to using Italian, Venetian or mongrel versions. Which is no surprise, because some of the city's nizioleti street signs...
Sestiere Di Cannaregi 1
The shopping around here is nothing to get the blood rushing, but a few interesting exceptions stand out. The only serious fashion department store is here, as well as Venice's main toy store. You'll also find a great coffee vendor and the principal outlet for Burano lace. The Ghetto's tiny Jewish community is still busy, and you'll discover a few curious shops around Ghetto Nuovo and along Calle del Ghetto Vecchio. They generally sell an odd mixture of Jewish art, souvenirs, books on Venice's...
Changing Money
You can exchange money in banks, at post offices or in bureaux de change. See the Quick Reference inside front cover for exchange rates at the time of going to press. The post office and banks are reliable, but always ask about commissions. You'll find most of the main banks in the area around the Ponte di Rialto and San Marco. Keep a sharp eye on commissions at bureaux de change, which sometimes exceed 10 on traveller's cheques. A handy bank with ATM for both the train and bus stations is the...
Airlines
Airlines don't bother with shopfront offices in Venice, so you'll need to go online, call the following numbers or try a travel agent see p259 . More than 40 airlines serve more than 60 destinations direct to from Venice. Air Dolomiti EN In Italy 199 400044 www.alrdol omltl.lt Airline with flights from Frankfurt and Munich to Venice and Verona, as well as Vienna to Verona. Air One AP 199 207080 www.flyalrone.lt Flights from throughout Italy. Alitalia AZ 06 2222 www.alltalla.lt, In Italian...