Mae LaNa
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Between Mae Hong Son and Pai, Rte 1095 winds through an area of forests, mountains, streams, Shan and hill-tribe villages and limestone caves. Some of Mae Hong Son's most beautiful scenery is within a day's walk of the Shan village of Mae La-Na (6km north of Rte 1095 via a half-sealed road), where you can stay overnight. From here you can trek to several nearby Red and Black Lahu villages and to a few caves within a 4km to 8km radius.
It's possible to walk a 20km half-loop all the way from Mae La-Na to Tham Lot and Soppong, staying overnight in Red Lahu villages along the way. Ask for information at MaeLana Garden Home (right). Experienced riders can do this route on a sturdy dirt bike -but not alone or during the rainy season.
Local guides will lead visitors to nearby caves. Tham Mae La-Na, 4km from the village, is the largest and most famous - it's threaded by a 12km length of river - and a journey to the cave and through it costs 600B. Tham Paka-
rang (Coral Cave) and Tham Phet (Diamond Cave) all feature good wall formations and cost 200B each for guides. Rates are posted at a small sàalaa near a noodle stand. At the sàalaa, and at the social spot of the main village shop, is where you may contact the guides during the day. Some of the caves may not be accessible during the rainy season.
Even if you don't fancy trekking or caving, Mae La-Na can be a peaceful and mildly interesting cul-de-sac for a short stay. Beyond the Shan-style Wat Mae La-Na, a school, some houses and the previously 'downtown' area around the noodle shops and petrol pumps, there's litde to see, but the surrounding mountain scenery is quite pleasing.
The Mae La-Na junction is 51.3km from Mae Hong Son, 13.3km from Soppong and 70.5km from Pai. Twelve kilometres west of the three-way junction is a short turn-off for Wat Tham Wua Sunyata, a peaceful forest monastery. The village is 6km north of the junction. Infrequent sàwngthàew from the highway to the village cost 30B per person - mornings are your best bet.
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