AROUND LUSHOTO Mtae

Tiny Mtae is perched on a cliff about 55km northwest of Lushoto, with fantastic 270-degree views over the Tsavo Plains and down to Mkomazi Game Reserve. It makes a good destination if you only have time to visit one village from Lushoto. Just to the southeast of Mtae is Shagayu Peak (2220m), one of the highest peaks in the Usambara Mountains. In addition to its many hiking paths, the area is also known for its traditional healers.

Staff at the Lutheran church will usually allow you to camp on their grounds, or there's the no-frills Muivano II Guest House (s/d without bathroom Tsh2500/3500) near the bus stand. Meals are available up the road at Muivano I.

Near Sunga village, 7km southwest of Mtae, there's camping at Limbe Travellers Camp (per person Tsh5000) in green grounds about 1km south of the village along the main road.

The road between Lushoto and Mtae is full of turns and hills, and particularly beautiful as it winds its way up the final 7km to Mtae. If travelling by public transport you'll need to spend at least one night in Mtae as buses from Lushoto (Tsh2500, four hours) travel only in the afternoons, departing Lushoto by about 1pm. The return buses from Mtae to Lushoto depart between 4am and 5.30am en route to Dar es Salaam. There are no dalla-dallas on the Mtae-Lushoto route.

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