Around Shitoushan
Not far from Shitoushan, down County Rd 124 Ep , is one of the most pleasant hot- spring resorts outside the Taipei area. East River Spa Garden tCS DongjiangWenquan 03-825 285 www.eastrlver.com.tw, Chinese only public baths unlimited time adult child NT350 150 H 9am-10pm is nestled in the bend of a fast flowing river in an area with no other development. The design makes use of traditional red bricks and lots of wood. It looks traditional, but there's no denying it's for urbanites who want...
Shihting Shiding
The little town of Shihting Shiding sits in the hills about 15km east of Maokong. There's not much to see in the town itself, though locals do commend the various tofu dishes you can get on the 'old street'. For the foreign traveller there are two excellent hikes that shouldn't be missed Huangdi Dian Mi Huangdi Dian and Bijia Shan 5 i Bijia Shan . Huangdi Dian runs east of Shihting along a narrow ridge that in parts is no more than 20cm wide - with sheer drops on the right and left There are...
Sleeping
In addition to the He Huan Campground Hehuan Luying Dujia Shanzhuang 2665 6424 , there are numerous campgrounds heading south along the bike path and along Country Rd 42. Our favourite spot just off along the route is Cloud 9 0911-126 337 www.doud9tw.com Pinglin Township camping per person NT200 , run by a friendly South African family who've made Taiwan their home. The campground sits on a shady grassy flat beside the Beishi River. It's in a prime spot with several deep but calm swimming holes...
Pei Kuan Crab Museum
After our respectful review of the Lion's Kingdom Museum pl61 , you'd be forgiven for expecting this crab museum Pangxle Bowiiguan fl 03-977 2168 admission NT250 9am-5pm to be a slapstick afterthought. A crab museum What's up with that Well, a lot actually. Two floors, in fact, devoted to the dozens of crab species found in Taiwan. The first floor exhibits whole crab exteriors, and the sheer range of colours, shapes and sizes is astonishing - and at times plain creepy. The horseshoe crab, for...
Lei Cha M
If you pronounce it incorrectly, lei cha lei cha sounds like 'tired tea', but this hearty brew was designed to do anything but make you sleepy. It was a farmer's drink, rich and thick and full of nutrients and calories. In the old days, Hakka farmers would drink it both during and after work in the tobacco fields in order to fortify their bodies. Very likely, lei cha is a modern invention like the Scottish tartan , or at best a family drink that has been cleverly promoted as an authentic part...
Manyueyuan Forest Recreation
This recreation area Manyueyuan Senlin Youle Qu http recreate.forest.gov.tw adult child NT100 75 8am-5pm is truly a park for all seasons, and all people. The first section has paved or cobbled paths, scenic pavilions and short walks to a number of gorgeous waterfalls. It's perfect for families or strolling couples. Once you get past this section, however, you're on natural trails that take you through sweet-smelling cedar forests, up to mountain peaks and, further afield, to a stand of giant...
Southern Taiwan
in the south, people's ties to rural folk culture are strongest. Local gods are more fervently worshipped, traditions more respected, and a clannish regard for kith and kin more obvious. And in a land of hospitable people, southerners shine as the most hospitable of all. Outside of Taipei, the only cities really worth visiting are in the south ie Tainan and Kaoh-siung. Tainan has a temple heritage second to none, and a great array of local foods to sample. Kaohsiung is a harbour city on a mad...
Neidong Forest Recreation Area
About 4km past Wulai Waterfall is this recreation area Neidong Sen I in Youle Qu http recreate.forest.gov .tw adult child NT80 40 , popularly known as Wa-wagu, or 'Valley of the Frogs'. This place alone is wonderful enough to make it worth a dedicated trip. The main attractions are the broadleaf and cedar forests, the bird and insect life and the occasional monkey , and the three-tiered Hsinhsian Waterfall Xinxian Piibii , one of the most gorgeous in the north. According to the Forestry Bureau,...
Hiking 1
In the hills just back from town and along the rivers there are short paths suitable for families and strolling couples. To get to the trailhead for the Guanyintai Trail Guanyintai Biidao , cross the bridge near the museum, turn right and walk about 200m. The stairs on the left take you up to the giant Guanyin statue that overlooks Pinglin. At the end of the trail cross County Rds 42 and 106 and continue to the suspension bridge at the beginning of town. From here you can walk along the river...
THE HSUEHSHAN TUNNEL Ulljlt
At 12.9km, this tunnel Xueshan Suidao is the longest in Asia and the fourth longest in the world. It's also had one of the longest periods of construction - when it finally opened in June 2006, work on the tunnel had been underway since 1991. The tunnel is the centrepiece of the 55km-long National Hwy 5 connecting Taipei with Nan County. It was supposed to open up the east coast, but along the way it opened an ancient aquitard and the water just kept on pouring out. Boring machines were flooded...
Sights Activities Bhi
Almost directly in line with Turtle Island is the Wufengchi Waterfall W f ngch P bii . There are three layers and each one is more impressive than the last. The falls are 3.5km northwest of the Jiaoshi train station fS MiiC p i - There is no public transport to the falls so you must walk or catch a taxi NT150 . Jiaoshi is one of the few hot-spring towns developed by the Japanese that has not been overdeveloped to the point where there simply isn't enough water for all the businesses that claim...
Walking The South Crossisland Highway
Day one take the bus from Taitung p202 to the Guanshan opposite trailhead. Climb to Kuhanuosin Mountain Cottage opposite and stay the night. Day two complete the hike to the Guanshan summit, then return to the highway and walk 3km north to spend the night at Tienchih Hostel opposite . Day three walk 13km along the highway to Yakou opposite , with a possible side trip up Taguanshan opposite . Spend the night in Yakou Hostel p264 . Day four hike up Guanshanling Mountain opposite , then take the...
HOT SPRINGS Gfx
There are dozens of natural hot springs along the South Cross-Island Hwy, some requiring half a day to hike into. Around Wulu, however, there are several that can be reached fairly easily. One of the most wild is the Mokenan Hot Spring Mokenan Wenquan . In this large open area of steamy fumaroles, and long cliff faces stained with colourful mineral deposits, hot-spring water spits dribbles and boils out from cracks in the canyon walls. To get here, look for a clearing wide enough to park a car...
SHITOUSHAN MMlU
Shitoushan Shitoushan is a foothill on the border of Miaoli and Hsinchu Counties. Beautiful dense forests and rugged rock faces define the topography, but if you ask anyone it is the temples tucked into caves and hugging the slopes that have given the place its fame. Shitoushan is sacred ground for the island's Buddhists and draws big weekend crowds, with people coming to worship or simply enjoy the beauty and tranquillity of the mountain. Over the years, Shitoushan has been consistently...
pop Gyg
We've always been very fond of Tainan Tainan , and always impressed with its array of temples and historical relics. But we often wondered if we simply needed to get out more. So one day we travelled to Beijing and saw some of the greatest architectural wonders of the Chinese world. And then we returned to Tainan and found we were no less impressed with it than before. No, it couldn't compare directly to Beijing, but then travel is not a zero sum game in our opinion, and the wonderful deserves...
Caling Tsaling Historic Trail
If you can only do one hike during your stay in Taiwan, make it this one, which runs along the rugged coastal mountains from Fulong to Daxi. The first sections of the trail take you through thick woodlands and scrub, which are pleasant enough, but it's the many, many kilometres along high grassy bluffs overlooking the Pacific that make this hike such a treasure. To top things off, there are wild grazing buffalo to observe and a few boulder-sized historical tablets. In 1807 the government in...
Swimming River Tracing
Every weekend in the hot summer months river-tracing clubs or informal groups of friends flock to the rivers and streams around Wulai to practise river tracing sudxi see p331 , which combines scrambling, swimming and hiking and true technical climbing and rappelling at higher levels . One popular venue is the Jia Jiu Liao Stream tin.ASfifl Jia Jiu Liao Xi , which features a jungle canopy worthy of a Tarzan film, an amazing natural rock slide and a deep pool large enough for a group to swim in....
HOT SPRINGS aH
Taian's springs produce alkaloid carbonic water at a temperature of about 47 C. The water is clear, tasteless and almost odourless and said to be good for treating skin problems and nervousness. The Sunrise Hot Spring Hotel Richu Wenquan Dujia Fandian 941 988 public pool unlimited time adult child NT350 150 8am-11pm has excellent modern facilities to enjoy the waters. Both public outdoor pools and private tubs in rooms are designed to let you take in the mountain views as you bathe.
Shifen
The upstream watersheds of the Keelung River receive more than 6000mm of rain a year and have more waterfalls than any other river system in Taiwan. One of the most spectacular is the 40m-wide Shifen Waterfall t ij-iSl Shifen Pubu adult child NT180 100 7.30am-6pm , the broadest waterfall in Taiwan. A park has been built up around the falls, complete with coffee shops, lookouts and stone trails that allow you to get right beside the falls. It's outrageously expensive to get in, and we object to...
Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail
This wonderful trail Sandiaoling Pubu Budao starts just a few minute's walk from the first stop along the Pingxi line and is a must-visit for any waterfall lover. In just a couple of hours you can see three of the highest and most beautiful falls in the north in their natural glory. The second waterfall even allows you to get right in behind it via a cave formed by the overhang it's like something out of The Last of the Mohicans. If you have the afternoon or the whole day, you can see at least...
Pingxi
Pingxi Pingxi is a bit grubby though there were efforts at the time of writing to fix up the old village , but there are two reasons you should make a stop here the Pingxi crags and the sky lanterns see the Lantern Festival boxed text, pl49 . If you've got a head for heights and like unusual hikes, don't miss out on the series of crags l il i cimufeng literally across the street from the train station. The highest crag is only 450m or so, but you must scramble up metal ladders and steps carved...