Budget Sur
The closest camping grounds are about 35km north of Maputo at Marracuene and Maca-neta. Maputo has three good backpackers, all with English-speaking staff and heaps of city info. All can also help with airport pickups and transfers to the bus depots for early morning buses north. Fatima's Backpackers i 21-302994,82-414 5730 www.mozambiquebackpackers.com 1317 Avenida Mao Tse Tung camping per person US 5, dm US 6-12, d with shared private bathroom US 24 32 In the upper part of town and Maputo's...
Morija
Morija is a tiny town with a big history, and the site of the first European mission in Lesotho. It's a must for anyone interested in Lesotho's history and culture. Morija Museum amp Archives 0 2236 0308 www.morijafest.com admission US 0.80 S 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun , the best museum in Lesotho, holds well-presented Basotho ethnographical exhibits, archives and artefacts. The annual Morija Arts amp Cultural Festival www .morijafest.com is organised by the museum. This popular, annual...
Save The Rhino Trust
The group Save the Rhino Trust SRT WWW.rhino-trust.org.na was formed by a concerned group of individuals in order to cease illegal poaching. Since the trust was formed, it has actively collaborated with both the Namibian government and local communities in order to provide security for the rhino, monitor population size and bring benefit to the locals through conservation and tourism initiatives. Save the Rhino Trust operates in Damaraland, a sparsely populated region that is lacking in...
Inhaca Island
Inhaca, about 40km east of Maputo, is an important marine research centre and a popular weekend getaway. Its offshore coral reefs are among the most southerly in the world, and parts of the island and surrounding waters have been designated a protected reserve. On Inhaca's southwestern edge at the research station is a small museum admission US 3 8.30-11,30am amp 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri,from 9.30am Sat, Sun amp holidays with specimens of local fauna. About 3km northwest of Inhaca is tiny Portuguese...
Sleeping Eating Ecp
Verandas camping per person US 2 Camping under simple thatched shelters on the beach at Cabaceira Peque a, several kilometres past Carushka. Bring along everything with you, although more facilities are planned. Carushka I 82-516 0173 ophavela teledata.mz 4- 8-person bungalows US 32764 Rustic, spotless bungalows set between the mangroves and one of the best stretches of beach. A restaurant is planned for now bring food and drink, and staff will prepare it. It's about 2km south of Chocas town,...
A Mulanje Traverse
There are many ways to traverse the Mulanje massif. The route we describe briefly here, from Likhubula to Fort Lister, is one of several options, although it seems to be the most popular. It can be done in four days, but there are several variations that can extend this period, and plenty of opportunities for sidetracking, to take in a few peaks and ridges or explore small valleys. Likhubula Forestry Office to Chambe Hut There are two options the Chambe Plateau Path, which is short and steep...
Likoma Missionaries The Cathedral Of St Peter
European involvement on Likoma Island began in 1882 when members of UMCA Universities Mission to Central Africa established a base here. The leaders of the party, Will Johnson and Chauncey Maples, chose the island as protection from attacks from the warlike Ngoni and Yao peoples. Maples became the first bishop of Likoma, but he died only a few months after being appointed, drowning in the lake off Monkey Bay. Despite the setback, missionary work on the island continued. Between 1903 and 1905...
Mokopane Potgietersrus Around
This conservative town they all seem to be up this way , 227km north of Pretoria, was settled early by Voortrekkers, not without resistance from the people already living there. Things are quieter now, and the town is a key base of operations for platinum and diamond mining. The largest citrus farm in the southern hemisphere, the Zedebiela Citrus estate, is nearby. The flrend Dieperink Museum s 015-491 9735 adult student child US 0.40 0.10 0.10 7.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri , at the back of the...
The Bantu Migration
While the Khoisan were developing, in West Africa another group with larger body types and darker skin was emerging the Bantu. By around 3000 to 4000 years ago, they had developed iron-working skills, which enabled them to make tools and weapons. Their skills led to improved farming methods and the ability to make unwanted guests of themselves on their neighbours' lands. Over 2000 years ago the Bantu moved into the Congo Basin and, over the next thousand years, spread across present-day Uganda,...
SHOPPING Osx
Point and the penguin colony on Halifax Island. Thetwo-to three-hour trips cost US 25 book at the tourist office. CoastwayTours Luderitz 1 202002 lewiscwt iway .na Runs day tours US 80 to the 55m Bogenfels sea arch, Maerchental Valley and the ghost town of Pomona in the Sperrgebiet. This tour also requires at least four participants and must be booked at least one week in advance. Ghost Town Tours 1 204033 kolmans iafrica.com .na Goerke Haus This company operates day trips to Elizabeth Bay US...
Mabuasehube Section
The Mabuasehube section of the park the name means 'Red Earth' , covers 1800 sq km and focuses on the low red dunes around three major pans and several minor ones. Mabuasehube S for day visitors 6.30am-6.30pm Mar-Sep, 5.30am-7.30pm Oct-Feb is best in late winter and early spring when herds of eland and gemsbok migrate from the rest of the park This section has eight rudimentary camp sites, for two groups of up to 12 people each, at the Entrance Gate, Lesholoago Pan, Monamodi, Mpaathutlwa Pan,...
Northern Namibia 1
Known as the 'Land of Rivers', Northern Namibia is bounded by the Kunene and Okavango Rivers along the Angolan border, and in the east by the Zambezi and the Kwando Mashe Linyanti Chobe river systems. Although Windhoek maybe the capital,
FOOD DRINK Food 1
Outside Windhoek and Swakopmund, you'll find few gourmet pretences. Most hotels serve three meals, but menus are usually meat-oriented and are rarely very creative. For a treat, try one of the German-style konditorei pastry shops in Windhoek or Swakopmund, or one of the pleasant caf s that exist in most towns. Small hotels normally provide a cooked breakfast with cereal and toast, and big hotels may include a buffet breakfast. In addition to bread, cereals, fruit, yogurt and cold meat, they may...
North Luangwa National Park
This park admission US 20,vehicle US 15 6am-6pm is large, wild and spectacular, but nowhere near as developed or set up for tourism as its southern counterpart. The big draw of North Luangwa is its walking safaris, where you can get up close to the wildlife in a truly remote wilderness. Natangwe Community Camp Site camping US 5 is run by the Mukungule Community and is set in woodland by the northern park entrance gate. The camp sites are very pleasant with spotless hot showers, toilets and...
Info Kde
Grassy, gorgeous Rhodes is a heavenly place the top in all senses of the word place to visit in the Highlands and what locals jokingly refer to as 'the centre of the universe'. Tiffindell 2800m , around 23km up a mountain pass 4WD only from Rhodes, is a purpose-built winter sports resort. Its snow-making facilities mean that a season of 95 days late May to mid-August is possible here. Enjoy an apr s-ski or two in Ice Station 2720 elevation 2720m , South Africa's highest pub. The Ben Macdhui...
Sleeping Eating Aap
If you're camping, you should bring most of what you need from Zomba town, as there's no shop on the plateau, although there are a local-style tearoom and some stalls selling fruit, vegetables and sometimes bread between the Ku Chawe Inn and the Forest Campsite. Chitinji Campsite admission US 0.80 camping per person US 2.50, basic r per person US 5 Near Malumbe Peak in the west, this is an excellent place to stay, although even more likely to be shrouded in mist. The owner can advise on hikes...
Shiwa Ngandu
The vast estate of Shiwa Ng'andu www.shiwangandu ,com tours US 20 9-11amMon-Sat,10-11amSun was established in the 1920s by Stewart Gore-Brown, a paternalistic British aristocrat. At its heart is Shiwa House, a splendid English-style mansion as described in The Africa House by Christina Lamb p669 . Tours take about two hours and include the house, a visit to Sir Stewart's grave and the lake. Kapishya Hot Springs is about 20km west of Shiwa House, but still on the Shiwa Ng'andu estate. The...
Domboshawa Ngomakurira
Domboshawa 'Red Rock' in the Shona language , 16km northeast of Harare, is renowned for its rock paintings. From the small museum at the car park, a well-marked 15-minute walk takes you to the Domboshawa Caves 790044 admission US 4 6am-6pm where the paintings are concentrated. Ngomakurira 790044 admission US 2 6am-6pm offers even more spectacular rock paintings especially photogenic in the afternoon . Both sites make an interesting day or half-day trip. Domboshawa is 30km north of Harare. Drive...
Siavonga
Siavonga is the main town and resort along the Zambian side of Lake Kariba. Just a few kilometres from the massive Kariba Dam, Siavonga is a quiet and low-key village in contrast to Kariba town in Zimbabwe across the lake. The tiny bank at the end of the laneway east of the petrol station changes money, and so do the moneychangers at the turn-off to Siavonga along the road between Lusaka and the border. Tours free, but donations welcome of Kariba Dam are run by the dam authorities. These tours...
Ewanrigg National Park
This small national park admission US 12 6am-6pm , 40km northeast of Harare, consists of 240 hectares of elaborate gardens and woodland. The gardens are characterised by an array of prehistoric-looking aloes, cacti and palm-like cycads, and during winter the slopes glow with the brilliant red and yellow blooms of the succulents and the variegated hues of tropical flowers. The best time for blooms is June to October. But don't go on Saturday or Sunday, because the crowds will easily spoil the...
Train Drt
Metro commuter trains are a handy way to get around, although there are few or no trains after 6pm Monday to Friday and after noon on Saturday. For information contact Cape Metro Rail l 0800 656 463 www.capemetrorail.co.za . Metro trains have 1st- and economy-class carriages only. The difference in price and comfort is negligible, although you'll find the lst-class compartments to be safer on the whole. The most important line for visitors is the Simon's Town line, which runs through...
Sinamatella Camp
Sinamatella 2775 office 7am-6pm is the nicest of the three main camps. It sits atop a 55m mesa with a commanding 50km panorama. By day, you'll see buffaloes and antelopes in the grassy patch below the camp, but it's at night time that Sinamatella really comes alive expect to be haunted by the roaring of lions and the disconcerting howling of hyenas at the foot of the hill, along with a host of unidentified screeches, thumps and bumps. At any time, vicious little honey badgers skitter around the...
The First Chimurenga
The government of Rhodesia was set up 'for, by and of the whites. The Ndebele had effectively been quashed, but trade between the Shona and Europeans continued until it became apparent that the colonists intended to control both African and Rhodesian interests. Spotting a weakness in the BSAC army, the Ndebele came back with a vengeance, gathering forces and single-mindedly attempting to drive the enemy from their land forever. This warlike spirit proved contagious the Shona, traditional...
Cobue
Tiny Cobue is the gateway into Mozambique if you're travelling from Malawi via Likoma Island, 10km offshore. MchengaWede per person US 5 About 5km south of Nkwichi Lodge near Mbueca village. It has camping, basic bungalows and pricey meals around US 7 to US 10 , plus bush walks and canoe trips. It's run by some enterprising staff from Nkwichi Lodge, and bookings can be made through Nkwichi or you can just show up. Nkwichi Lodge www.mandawilderness.org s d with full board US 2407380 This...
City Centre
Spawning Ground Mapp365 204400 spawning iafrica.com.na cnr8th St amp 8th Rd camping per person US 5, dm US 10, d US 25 Hi Owner, manager and all-around great guy, Wayne, knows exactly how to create a great vibe - guests often check in for one night and check out days later. Asgard House Map p365 l 209595 www.gateway -africa.com asgard 72 17th Rd s d US 38 50 This quaint family-run guesthouse features a nice homey lounge, a tropical garden and a frog pond the frogs do their bit by eating the...
Namibia 1
The three main border crossings are at Ngoma Bridge, Mahango-Mohembo and Mamuno-Buitepos. Note that during the winter months late May to August , Namibia is one hour behind Botswana. There's at least one daily combi between Ghanzi and Mamuno US 3, three hours , on the border, but from there, you'll have to wait for a minibus on to Gobabis or Windhoek. Unfortunately, on the Namibian side they only run when full, so you may have to hole up on the border at the useful East Gate Petrol Station amp...
Molepolole
The tongue-twisting name of this hillside village pronounced mo-lay-po-io-lay is often sensibly shortened to 'Moleps'. The main attraction, the Kgosi Sechele 1 Museum S 592 0917 Gaborone Rd S 9am-noon amp 2-4pm Tue-Frl, 11am-4pm Sat , is housed in the 1902 police station and features traditional housing, paintings, historic photos and David Livingstone memorabilia. It's reputed that Chief Sechele was the only person the missionary Livingstone ever managed to convert to Christianity. This was...
Gcwihaba Caverns Drotskys Cave
In the Kung language, the name of this decorated cavern system in the Gcwihaba Hills means 'Hyena's Hole'. They weren't brought to European attention until the mid-1930s when the Kung showed them to a Ghanzi farmer, Martinus Drotsky, and for years they were known as Drotsky's Cave. The two entrances are 300m apart but the route through the cave is about 800m. There are no lights and no indication of which route to take, so you must carry several powerful torches as well as emergency lights,...
Eating Eqd
Dino's Beach Bar meals from US 2 10am-late Thu-Tue Tofo's main hangout, with good vibes, good music and good food on the beach just past Fatima's Nest. Waterworks Surf amp Coffee Shop breakfasts amp light meals US 2-4 7am-5pm Tue-Sun Great breakfasts with muesli, waffles and more, plus light meals. It's next to Diversity Scuba in the town centre. fllbatroz 293-29005 restalbatroz teledata.mz meals from US 5, breakfast buffet US 14 breakfast Sun, lunch amp dinner dally At the top of the hill in...
Metangula
Bustling Metangula is the largest Mozambican town along the lakeshore, with little for visitors. However, about 8km north is Chuwanga, an attractive beach and a popular getaway. Chuwanga Beach Hotel ComplexoCetuka Catawala's Chuwanga Beach camping per person US 5, s d bungalows US 15720 is where everyone stays. It has camping, simple bungalows on the sand, meals and a grill. Daily chapas connect Metangula and Lichinga US 5, 2Vi hours , most departing early. Departures in Metangula are from the...
Big Bend
Picturesque Big Bend is a sleepy sugar town on - not surprisingly - a big bend in the Lusutfu River and makes a convenient stop en route to from KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa. It may pay to book accommodation ahead. The Bend Inn Hotel 1363 6855 s d USS26 40 g is on a hill just south of town, with pleasant views across the river from the restaurant and outdoor bar. It is OK value. Lismore Lodge I 363 6613 d from US 28 has small, comfortable, good-value doubles. Next door, LL Restaurant Bar 363...
HIKING Ycy
The southern half of the plateau is ideal for hiking. The network of tracks and paths can be confusing, though, so for more help with orientation, there's a 3-D map of the plateau in the Model Hut. For detailed information on hiking routes on the southern half of the plateau, A Guide to Zomba Plateau US 2 is a single-sheet map with information on the back, including several suggested hiking routes, produced by the Wildlife Society. It's available in Blantyre and at the Ku Chawe Inn p212 . For...
Mt Kgale
The 'sleeping giant', Mt Kgale, overlooks Gaborone, and you can easily hike to the summit for a sweeping view over the capital. Take any Lobatse bus or head out along the new Lobatse road to the car park opposite an obvious satellite dish, just beyond the Kgale Centre Mall . Cross the white concrete stile and follow the track through a shallow gully to the trail of whitewashed stones that lead to the summit. Due to recent robberies, it's wise not to walk alone or carry anything of value.