Sataoa Saanapu Conservation Area
In an effort to preserve one of'Upolu's most important coastal wetland areas, the mangrove forests around the villages of Sataoa and Sa'anapu were declared a conservation area. Mangroves provide a vital habitat for the breeding of fish and crabs, they help to keep erosion in check and the leaves and bark are used in traditional medicine. At Sataoa there's a nature trail per person ST5 but it's just a rough car track that skirts the mangroves before terminating at some wind-blown fale. A better...
Tapa
While tapa is the name commonly used overseas to describe Pacific bark cloth, in Tonga the elaborately decorated, finished product is actually called ngatu. The longest and most elaborate pieces of ngatu are reserved for the most important occasions. At the 2003 royal wedding of Princess Salote Lupepau'u Salamasina Purea Vahine Arii 'o e Hau Tuita to the more humbly tided Matai'ulua-'i-Fonuamotu Fusitu'a, some villages donated lengths of ngatu reaching over 100 metres in length. Making ngatu is...
The Niuas
The closest most people will ever get to the remote Niuas meaning Rich in Coconuts , in Tonga's extreme northern reaches, is picking up a first-day cover of Niuafo'ou's decorative postage stamps. Tongan tradition remains very much alive on these three small volcanic islands. The highest-quality white mats are made in Niuatoputapu and Niuafo'ou, while Tafahi kava an intoxicating drink made from the root of the pepper shrub is renowned as the best in the island kingdom. The solitude of the...
Medical Services
Drug Store Map p103 633 4630 Faga'alu S 7.45am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7.45am-2pm Sat This well-stocked pharmacy Is on the road to the LBJ Tropical Medical Center. Island Boutique Map p103 s 699 5335 Laufou Center, Nu'uuli S 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat This generic gift store has a well-stocked pharmacy in one corner. LBJ Tropical Medical Center Map p103 s 633 1222-29 Faga'alu S emergency 24hr This centre can Fuel up early in the morning with a big breakfast at DDW pi 12 and then hike up along the ridge...
Pangaimotu
Nukualofa's closest island resort makes for a popular day trip for locals and tourists alike, particularly on a Sunday. The resort's restaurant bar is a great place to chill before a circumnavigational adventure allow 30 minutes - longer if you want to claim one of the swinging chairs suspended from a tree branch . There's good snorkelling in the marine reserve off the island's northwest shore and around the half-submerged wreck of My Lady Lata II Map pi83 near the landing site note serious...
Nonalcoholic Drinks
On a long walk or a day out in the sun, you can't go past a green coconut. You can often buy them from the roadside, but if you're feeling limber, try scaling a coconut tree to fetch your own. Always remember to ask permission from the local landowner first. The American Peace Corps put out The Niu idea Cookbook, which has a host of innovative recipes using local ingredients, and can be bought at the Friendly Islands bookshop. When old coconuts are left on the ground for long enough, they...
Southeastern Savaii
The southeastern chunk of Savai'i is where most of the island's business is conducted, namely in the banks, shops and marketplace of Salelologa. But once outside the shabby strip of commerce running north from the ferry terminal, you'll encounter some superb beaches and the lush wilds of the Tafua Peninsula Rainforest Preserve. Most of Savai'i's main facilities are in Salelologa and nearby in Tuasivi. ANZ Bank 51213 Salelologa S 8am-3pm Mon-Fri Situated beside the market, It has a 24-hour ATM....
Eneio Keitahi Beaches
At the easternmost end of the island, near the village of Tu'anekivale, are a couple of seldom-visited, rugged beaches, better for strolling or sunbathing than for swimming or snorkelling. At Keitahi Beach, strong snorkellers will find some interesting things to look at in the large tide pools about 100m offshore be careful as the currents are dangerous at high tide or you can wander out across the reef with proper footwear at low tide. It's reached via a dirt road to the east between...
Patricia Ledyard Matheson
One of Tonga's most famous palangi foreign authors, Patricia Ledyard Matheson lived at 'Utulei Vava'u for 51 years until her death in October 2000. Du ring that time she wrote three books Friendly Isles A Tale of Tonga 'Utulei, My Tongan Home and The Tongan Past, revolving around her life in Tonga, its people and traditions. Patricia was born in San Francisco in 1913 and served in the Pacific during WWII, during which she volunteered for front-line duty. Feeling drawn to Tonga, Pat arrived in...
Celebrations
Celebrations in Tonga revolve around food, and Tongan feasts kai pola are renowned throughout the Pacific. You re sure to spy or attend at least one during your time in the kingdom. Feasts are held for all occasions of note weddings, funerals, church conferences, village clergy ordinations, first and 21st birthdays, Easter, Christmas, public holidays, arrivals and farewells. For noble and royal funerals, coronations and birthdays, villages will spend days and nights preparing food to feed a...
Sia Ko Kafoa
Vava'u Island is nearly bisected by the Vaipua Inlet, which separates the Neiafu area from western Vava'u. The inlet was used by ancient Polynesian canoes en route to the fort complex at the village of Feletoa. The two sides of the island are connected by a causeway. On the western shore are the twin hills of Lei'ulu and Sia Ko Kafoa. Historically, this area has served as a burial ground, an 'esi resting site , a lookout and a fortification. From Neiafu, follow the road north past the hospital...
Food Drink
Samoans love food, glorious food, and skinny Samoans are as rare as hawksbill turtles. Traditional Samoan meals consist of root vegetables, particularly talo faro , niu coconut products , fuata breadfruit , pita a pork , moa chicken , i'a fish and other seafood such as shellfish, octopus and lobster. Young coconuts have delicious coconut water and a little jelly-like white flesh, mature ones have coconut water and firm white flesh, while sprouting ones are full of a spongy white substance...
Anahulu Cave Haveluliku
Tonga's most famous cave, 'Anahulu Cave Map pl83 , is looking overloved, its stalactites and stalagmites blackened from the soot of flaming frond torches and too much foot traffic. In the first cavern is a freshwater pool, a popular swimming spot. It's unknown how far the caves go, but deeper caverns are more magical. The cave still retains an otherworldly, even eerie, atmosphere, in which the constant dripping of water combines with the screeching echolocation of white-rumped pekepekatae...
The Fakaleiti
In a deeply Christian society like Tonga, there's not much tolerance for open displays of sexuality, rampant promiscuity or a tight pair of hot pants. Unless, of course, you are one of Tonga's fakaleiti. Fakaleiti, or leiti ladies as they call themselves, are men who dress and behave as women. The most high-profile event in the fakaleiti calendar is the Miss Galaxy pageant. Taking place a week after the king's birthday celebrations, this is an outrageous display of pole dancing, high heels and...
Eua National Park
There's something magical about this undisturbed ocean-side rainforest Map p216 that makes the legend of Maui fishing the rest of Tonga out of the water from 'Eua seem totally believable. 'Eua National Park protects a tract of virgin tropical rainforest above the southeastern coast, which is bordered on the western side by the sheer cliffs that descend direcdy from the highest ridge on the island. The easiest access to the rainforest is down the ridge on one of two purpose-built tracks. The...
Medical Checklist
It is a very good idea to carry a medical and first-aid kit with you, to help yourself in the case of minor illness or injury. Following is a list of items you should consider packing. acetaminophen paracetamol or aspirin adhesive or paper tape antibacterial ointment, eg Bactroban for cuts and abrasions prescription only antibiotics by prescription only , eg ciprofloxacin Ciproxin or norfloxacin Utinor Noroxin antibiotic as well as steroid eardrops by prescription only , eg Sofradex, Kenacort...
Walking Tour 1
This walking tour takes you up and around the Mulinu'u Peninsula, which stretches out into the South Pacific Ocean to the northwest of central Apia. The peninsula seems to serve as a repository for political monuments and memorials, though most of these are now rather derelict. Start from outside Apia's lively Flea Market 1 p65 . The first monument you encounter while ambling along the sea wall that buttresses the peninsula's eastern shore is the German Flag Memorial 2 , which was erected in...
Lifuka Group
Most visitors to Ha'apai stay within the Lifuka group of islands, found along the eastern barrier reef of Ha'apai, including Ha'ano, Nukunamo, Foa, Lifuka, Uoleva, Tatafa and 'Uiha. Lifuka Island, with its main town Pangai the island group's capital , is the centre of Ha'apai's limited activity, including the airport and main inter-island ferry port. Lifuka's main town, Pangai, holds Lifuka's basic services shops, post office, bank etc and several guesthouses. There's litde for the visitor to...
Other Haapai Group Islands
From practically any west-facing shore in the Ha'apai group of islands the pyramidlike cone of Kao Tonga's highest mountain and the smouldering, volcanic Tofua site of the mutiny on the Bounty dominate the scene, and entice you to come a bit closer. Game fishing and diving around Kao and Tofua are excellent. On Tofua's southwestern beach, on 28 April 1789, Captain Bligh of HMS Bounty and 18 loyals landed after the famous mutiny. Islanders clubbed quartermaster John Norton to death. Bligh and...
The Authors Choice 1
Mermaid Restaurant 70730 VHF Channel 16 breakfast amp light meals TS4-16, mains TS25-36 Yachties tie up tenders to the pontoon while others wind down a pirate-like lair from Hala Lupe to the most popular spot in town. Flags and yacht T-shirts, signed by their crews, hang from the thatch-fringed ceiling and flap in the breeze at Mermaid's, where a relaxed atmosphere and good cheer pervade. The extensive menu including bulging tortillas, juicy grills and the popular pizzas and seafood dishes...
Toula Veimumuni Cave
The freshwater spring and swimming hole of Veimumuni Cave is carved into the rock east of Toula village, 3km south of Neiafu. From Toula, turn left east following the path uphill past a cemetery. As you descend to the beach, you'll see Veimumuni Cave in the bluff. Several legends tell of a beautiful spirit maiden who appeared on the rock before the cave and teased mortal men with her beauty, tempting every passing soul with the contents of the mysterious cave. One version has her finally being...
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Looming like the mythical Bali Hai the island created by James A Michener in his 1946 short-story collection Tales of the South Pacific , the perfect cone of extinct volcano Tafahi dominates the view from Niuatoputapu's north coast. On the right tide, you can cross to Tafahi 9km and 40 minutes north of Niuatopu-tapu by boat in the morning and return in the afternoon. A S' i-hour return walk to the summit 656m takes an intermittent trail, leading up the gradual northern slope and connecting the...
Top End 1
Establishments in this category have some of Nukualofa's best restaurants attached to them see right. While all of these options are on the waterfront, there is no real beach here. Villa Guest Lodge fax 24998 www.tongavilla .com Vuna Rd s d tr with bathroom amp breakfast T 125 145 180 IS For fans of an elegant and breezy, unfussed colonial style. Centrally located and nearby good restaurants you can also eat in , this is one of the most attractive places to stay in Nuku'alofa. There's a huge...
Feletoa
The small village of Feletoa which means 'many brave warriors' , between Neiafu and Holonga, is the site of a fortification constructed in 1808 to resist the conquest of Vava'u by Finau 'LTlukalala II. At the time, Feletoa was the centre of government for Vava'u, thanks to easy canoe access up Vaipua Inlet. The fortification is surrounded by trenches, which you may be able to make running perpendicular to the road. On the south side of the road between Feletoa and the nearby village of Mataika...
Northwestern Savaii
Western Savai'i ends at the remote Falea-lupo Peninsula, a snout-shaped piece of land where travellers can wobble across a rainforest swing bridge, acquaint themselves with some of Samoa's ancient le gends and technically look into the future. Meanwhile, committed hikers can trek from A'opo up into the island's wild heart. A'OPO CONSERVATION AREA amp MOUNT SILISILI It's possible to climb Mount Silisili 1866m , the Samoas' highest point, and at the same time experience the splendid natural...
Travellers Diarrhoea
Diarrhoea is caused by viruses, bacteria or parasites present in contaminated food or water. In temperate climates the cause is usually viral, but in the tropics bacteria or parasites are more usual. If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids, preferably an oral rehydration solution eg Diarolyte, Gastrolyte, Replyte . A few loose stools don't require treatment, but if you start having more than four or five stools a day, you should start taking an antibiotic usually a quinolone...
Transport In Tonga
All travel through Tonga's islands requires a degree of faith and fluidity, and comes with a dose of uncertainty and unreliability, dependent on tides, strong winds, holidays, church events, weddings, funerals, or a late-night kava drinking session. Flying is the easiest and fastest way to get around Tonga, and the good news is that there are now two options Airlines Tonga Air Fiji and Peau Vava'u. Unreliability is still a problem and flights are cancelled or rescheduled at short notice, making...