Mrrungul
Several kilometres north of Massinga is the signposted turn-off for Praia de Morrungulo, a particularly beautiful and seemingly endless stretch of coast lined by palm trees and striking low cliffs. Amongst the bougainvilleas and palm trees bordering the beach sits the attractive, self-catering Morrungulo Beach Resort www.morrungulo .co.za camping per adult child US 11 5.50, bungalowd US 78, 4-person chalets US 144, bunkhouse per person about US 31 . It has reed-and-thatch chalets with...
Getting There Around
There are several flights weekly on LAM 251-22531 Rua dos Operarios, at Mafuia Comercial to Vilankulo, Tete and Maputo. The airfield is 10km from town, and signposted about 5km west of Chimoio along the Manica road. All transport leaves from near the train station. To Tete, there's a daily bus departing Chimoio at 4am US 9, six hours , and sometimes continuing on to Zobue on the Malawi border. Chapas and minibuses to Beira US 5, three hours run throughout the day, as do chapas to Manica US...
Ilha de Quirimba
Quirimba, just south of Ibo, is the most economically active island of the archipelago, with large coconut plantations, a sizeable sisal factory and an airstrip. While it is more bus-ding than Ibo, it is far less interesting from an architectural and historical perspective and not nearly as scenic as the littie patches of paradise further north. It is possible to walk between Quirimba and Ibo at low tide, but the route is through dense mangrove swamps, and you'll need a guide. Historically,...
Meponda
This small, lakeside village is completely undeveloped and a possibility for a day trip from Lichinga. The tiny harbour to the south of the main road as you enter Meponda is the hub of activity, with the town centre and market nearby. About 1km north of here is a small beach, which is ideal for picnicking and watching the fish eagles. Local fishermen will take you out on the lake for about US 2 per hour. The only accommodation is at the very basic and not very appealing 0 Pomar das Laran-jeiras...
Fim De Mondo
Tim do mundo' 'the end of the world' Is how many Mozamblcans describe Nlassa - the least populated of Mozambique's provinces - and as far as the rest of the country Is concerned, It might as well be. This wild, remote and beautiful area Is generally overlooked by the government and other locals and Ignored by tourists. Yet, If you're after adventure and time In the bush, It's an Ideal destination. Apart from Nlassa's scenic rugged terrain, the main attraction Is the alluring Lago Nlassa Lake...
Sena Mutarara
About 250km downstream from Tete along the Zambezi are the twin villages of Sena and Mutarara, known for the 3.6km Dona Ana railway bridge built in 1934 which spans the river here. The bridge has been converted to take vehicles it's open from sunrise to sunset, and - because of its narrow width - alternates directions roughly every hour. There are a few basic pensdes in both towns, including Pensao Sao Francisco in Mutarara, and Mira Zambezi in Sena. The river here is known for its hippos,...
Manica
Tiny, picturesque Manica, 70km west of Chimoio, is situated in what was once the heart of the kingdom of Manica and an important gold trading area. About 5km from town are the Chinamapere rock paintings. To get here, go west from Manica about 3km, and then south along a dirt road, following signs for 'pinturas rupestres'. The site of the paintings is considered sacred by local residents, and before your visit, an elderly lady will conduct a brief prayer ceremony. According to tradition, no...
Road Rules
In theory, traffic in Mozambique drives on the left. At roundabouts, traffic in the roundabout has the right of way again, in theory . There's a seatbelt requirement for the driver and front-seat passenger. Speed limits usually 80km h on main roads, and 50km h or less when passing through towns are enforced by radar and should be stricdy adhered to as controls are frequent. Fines for speeding, seatbelt and other traffic infringements vary and should always be negotiated in a polite, friendly...
Itineraries
THE SOUTHERN COAST 10 Days Maputo to Vilankulo Mozambique's superb beaches are what draw most visitors. For an easy coast-focused introduction, spend a few days getting oriented in Maputo p54 , and enjoying the city's sights and attractions. Take the bus north to Inhambane p86 to take in the sunset over the bay, with the flamingos and dhows, before heading out the next day to the beaches at Tofo p90 or Barra p92 . Divers should add two or three extra days to the itinerary more for a...
Quissico
Quissico, capital of Zavala district, is noteworthy for being one of the main meal and bathroom stops on long-haul bus routes along the EN1. If the bus stops for long enough, look down the escarpment eastward to a chain of shimmering, pale blue lagoons in the distance. Quissico's other claim to fame is that it's the centre of the famed Chopi timbila marimba orchestras, and site of the annual timbila festival. About 11km from Quissico, Praia Mar e Sol www.reviteresort.com camping per adult child...
Sleeping Eating Qlz
Marine Biology Research Station 21-760009, 21-760013 fax 21-492176 r per person US 15 Just in from the water on the island's southwestern edge, these no-frills rooms have shared facilities and cold-water showers. Primarily for students and researchers but is open to the public on a space-available basis. There is a kitchen, and a cook can be arranged, but you will need to bring your own food. Book rooms at least five days in advance. Pestana Inhaca Lodge 21-305000 www.pest ana.com s d f with...
Rdn01 Bushmail.net
Headquarters are about 40km southwest of Mecula at Mbatamila, and the main gate is near Salimo in the reserve's southeastern corner. Wildlife in Reserva do Niassa is spread relatively thinly over a vast area, with dense foliage and only a skeleton network of bush tracks. As a result, most tourism to date has been exclusively for the well-heeled, with the most feasible way to visit by charter plane from Pemba. With the imminent opening of the reserve's first safari camp and the gradual upgrading...
Penha Longa
The mountainous Penha Longa area straddles the border with Zimbabwe, beginning about 20km north of Manica. It's cool and scenic and offers many walks, all of which can be easily undertaken from the local accommodation spots. Although there is plenty of local cross-border activity, the only official border crossing is between Machipanda and Mutare Zimbabwe on the main road. Penha Longa is home to the Shona people, and you'll see their traditional painted dwelling compounds dotting the hillsides....
Midrange
Pens o Martins Map pp58-9 21-324926, 21-324930 morgest tvcabo.co.mz 1098 Av 24 de Julho s d ste US 40 45 60 El S This is a low-key place with a convenient, central location, a predominately male clientele and 22 rather spartan rooms with TV and minifridge, that are decent value for the doubles. There's an outdoor restaurant. Continental breakfast is included. Hoyo-Hoyo Residential Map pp58-9 21-490701 promotour tvabo.co.mz 837 Av Francisco Magumbwe s d USS38 45 E This solid, no-frills hotel...
Traditional Music Dance
The best ways to find out what's on are by reading Noticias newspaper and watching the posters hung around town. Also check with the Centro Cultural Franco-Mofambicano for upcoming music and dance performances. Companhia Nacional de Canto e Dan a National Company of Song amp Dance Map pp58-9 21-400913 www .cncd.org.mz Casa de Cultura, 1719 Av Albert Luthuli Mozambique's renowned Companhia Nacional de Canto e Danija is based at the Casa de Cultura, near the intersection with Av Ho Chi Min....
Sights Activities
Beira's spired cathedral Av Eduardo Mondlane , southeast of the centre, was built in the early 20th century with stones taken from the ruins of San Caetano fort in Sofala. Also worth a look are the surrounding Ponta Gea area, with some charming old houses Pra a do Metical and the area around the port, where the streets are lined with faded colonial-era buildings. One to watch for is the restored Casa Infante de Sagres, now the offices of Manica Shipping Company. Praia de Makuti Makuti Beach Av...
Archipelago Das Quirimbas
The Archipelago das Quirimbas consists of about two dozen islands and islets strewn among the turquoise waters along the 400km stretch of coasdine between Pemba and the Rio Rovuma. Some are waterless and uninhabited, while others have histories as long as the archipelago itself. Throughout, the archipelago's natural beauty is astounding, with searing white patches of soft sand surrounded by brilliant turquoise and azure waters alternating with greener and vegetated islands, fringed in part by...
Ilha De Santa Carolina
The prettiest of the islands, with stands of palm and other vegetation, Santa Carolina was formerly the site of another Joaquim Alves property. Today, the old hotel is closed and crumbling, although renovation is planned. Meanwhile, several rooms 82-320 9970 per person US 35 in an annex have been maintained for visitors, and offer surprisingly pleasant accommodation, with nets, clean linens and fresh towels, plus wonderful views over the water. There are no facilities otherwise and you'll need...
Angche
This quiet, somewhat dilapidated district capital has a long and intriguing history. While few reminders of its past remain, it has stayed relatively isolated and is worth a visit if you're in the area. About 7km north of town is the attractive Praia Nova, and about 45km further on is the village of Quinga, near another beautiful stretch of sand. Stretching well south of Angoche towards Moma and on to Pebane are the Archipelagos das llhas Primeiras e Segundas soon to be Mozambique's newest...
Sleeping
While Beira doesn't distinguish itself with accommodation options, it has enough of a choice to satisfy most tastes and there are a few nice, new places. Biques 23-313051 Praia de Makuti camping per person US 3.50 P Set on a breezy rise overlooking Praia de Makuti, this camping ground has seen better days, and doesn't receive too many travellers these days. Security isn't what it once was, nor are the ablutions. However, the bar with satellite TV and restaurant are popular and it's a good spot...
Bus
As long as you're fortified with nerves of steel for the high speeds , plenty of patience for the many stops en route , and lots of time for the huge distances bus travel is the most straightforward and economical way to get around Mozambique. Good services connect all major towns at least daily. A large bus is called a machibombo, and sometimes also autocarro. The main companies are the declining Transportes Oliveiras, with an extensive but slow route network in southern and central Mozambique...
Tropic Of Capricorn
There are no signs marking the spot, but you cross the tropic of Capricorn - the southernmost latitude 22.5 at which the sun is directly overhead - about 15km south of Massinga town on the border between Massinga and Morrumbene districts. Linga Linga can be reached from Morrumbene or by dhow from Inhambane about US 5, bring extra water and shade . There's nothing regular, so you'll need to charter one - ask staff at Pensao Pachi lt ,a p87 to point you in the right direction.
Sleeping Eating Suz
Complexo Tur stico Namarralo 26-660049 2- 4-person bungalows with bath USS40 80 S The busy Namarralo has straightforward stone bungalows in a large, fenced compound on the beach. All have bathroom and breakfast included and there's a restaurant serving Portuguese cuisine. It's signposted from the entrance to Chocas. Camshka bungalows USS32 64 Ideal for a quiet getaway except on holiday weekends , Carushka has rustic, spodess bungalows set back from the water between the mangroves and one of the...
LOCAL TRANSPORT Chapa
The main form of local transport is the chapa, the name given to any public transport that runs within a town or between towns, and isn't a bus or truck They're usually a converted pickup or minivan, and are notorious for careening wildly through the streets, packed Lonely Planet Publications GETTING AROUND Hitching 195 to bursting point. On some longer routes, your only option will be a camiao truck . Many have open backs, and on long journeys the sun and dust can be brutal unless you get a...
Barragem Dos Pequenos Libombos
Barragem dos Pequenos Libombos Peque-nos Libombos Dam lies in the hills about 45km southwest of Maputo and supplies the capital's water. The countryside is tranquil, the river has crocodiles and it makes an amenable day getaway if you have your own vehicle. The nearby Montes Libombos Libombos Mountains offer wide views and the area is good for cycling. Complexo Turistico Pequenos Lebombos 21-306729 d q from USS35 75 P 3 at the dam has small self-catering cottages set around large lawns, with a...
Marracuene
Marracuene Lodge 21-494529 marracuene teledata .mz camping per person US 8 r per person with without half board US 55 39 6 This agreeable place is in a tranquil setting along the Rio Nkomati about 4km south of Marracuene, and reached via a signposted road 4WD from the EN1. It has good camping with hot-water ablutions, plus a couple of two- and six-person self-catering chalets and a restaurant. Boat transfers to Macaneta beach are included in half-board rates, and otherwise cost US 16 per...
EATING Restaurants
Maputo has an excellent restaurant selection and it would be easy to go for several weeks trying a new place each evening. Mundo's Map pp58-9 21-494080 enr Avs Julius Nyerere amp Eduardo Mondlane meals US 5-9 S 7am-1am Burritos, burgers, pizzas and other hearty fare - all served up in large portions on wooden tables set around a streetside veranda and cooled by a misting system in the summer months. Mundo's also has all-day breakfast and a play area for children. Mimmo's Map pp58-9 Branch...
Montes Chimanimani
Silhouetted against the horizon on the Zimbabwe border southwest of Chimoio are the Montes Chimanimani, with Monte Binga 2436m , Mozambique's highest peak, rising up on their eastern edge. The mountains are beautiful - with stands of pine and mahogany - and exceptionally biodiverse, and together with Chimanimani National Park in Zimbabwe have been designated part of a transfrontier conservation area. Chimanimani is particularly notable for its abundance of During the late 19th century, Penha...
Around Quelimane
The closest beach to Quelimane is Praia de Zalala, about 30km northeast of town. It's long and wide, with sunrise views, a row of fringing palms, and water of questionable cleanliness as it's used as a toilet by local villages . However the drive out from Quelimane is scenic, through extensive coconut plantations formerly owned by Companhia da Zambezia. Complexo Kass-Kass 24-212302 bungalows US 32 is the only accommodation, with basic four-person bungalows that haven't seen a dust rag in years...
Museu Chissano
Works of the renowned sculptor Alberto Chissano are displayed in his family's residence at the Museu Chissano Rua Torre de Vale, Bairro Sal, Mat la admission US 2 S 9am-noon amp 3-5pm Tue-Sun , together with the works of other sculptors and painters. It's outside Maputo in the Mat la suburb in an area called Bairro Sial take Av 24 de Julho towards Mat la. Approaching Mat la, watch for some grey warehouses on the left side of the roadway, and turn right onto a small tarmac road branching off the...
Midrange Top End
The selection improves if you're willing to pay a bit more, with several more upper-end places under construction. Residencial Expresso 26-218808 9 fax 26-218806 Av da Independencia s d from USS53 67 Six large, spotless, modern rooms with fridge and TV. Breakfast is included and meals can be arranged. Residencial Karuthakka 26-216730,82-6707320 residencialkaruthakka hotmail.com Rua 3 de Fevereiro r without with breakfast USS45 50, ste US 60 El A new place behind the market with a large front...
The Culture
Samora Machel's famous rallying cry, 'A luta conf wwi ' The struggle continues' , inspired Mozambicans in the early independence years, and still stirs up national pride. You don't need to travel long in Mozambique before hearing the word paciencia patience . It's the great Mozambican virtue and most Mozambicans have it in abundance, with each other and with outsiders. You'll be expected to display some in return, especially in dealings with officialdom, and Western-style impatience is always...
Environment
Mozambique is a vast land spread out over about 800,000 sq km. To the east, it is edged by a spectacular coastline that winds for about 2500km, from Ponta d'Ouro in the south to the Rio Rovuma in the north. To the north and west it shares its borders with six other countries, including Malawi, which almost slices it in half. Unlike most of its seaside neighbours, Mozambique has extensive coastal lowlands, which form a broad plain 100km to 200km wide in the south and leave the country vulnerable...
SLEEPING Dgw
Hotel Inyati Yoyela White Buffalo r US 12 Somewhat of a Cobue institution, and long the main backpackers' stop, with basic rooms and meals, and now under new management. Mira Lago r about US 10 In Cobue town just behind Hotel Inyati Yoyela, this new ish place is no-frills, clean and pleasant, with solar-powered lighting and sometimes TV Mchenga Wede per person US 5, meals about US 7-10 About 5km south of Nkwichi Lodge near Mbueca village, Mchenga Wede is a good choice if you are backpacking...
Bus Chapa 1
Grupo Mecula has daily buses to Nacala US 4, two to three hours Pemba US 7, seven hours Quelimane US 14, 11 hours Montepuez US 7, eight hours and Mueda US 12, 13 hours . All depart at 5am except the bus to Nacala, which departs at 1pm. Departures are from the Grupo Mecula garage in the area known as 'Roman' on Rua da Moma, just off Av 25 de Setembro and one block south of Rua Cidade de Mo lt ,ambique. To Ilha de Mo lt ,ambique US 3.60, three to four hours , there are chapas departing between...
Sleeping Eating Kzg
Pens o Leeta 272-81147 AvSamora Machel camping US 5, r US 10 At the entrance to town near the transport stand, with no-frills and slightiy scruffy twin-bedded rooms sharing bucket-style baths. They'll also let you pitch a tent on their grounds. Pens o-Residencial Magid 272-81099 Av Eduardo Mondlane r US 12 Convenient to the Grupo Mecula bus garage, with basic rooms sharing facilities. Complexo Miramar Complexo Natasha or Chez Beb 272-81135 6 s d USS1S 24 Several steps up from the previous two...
Hiking Rock Climbing
For almost all hiking in Mozambique you'll be on your own, as there's very little organised. One of the better mountain climbs is up Monte Namuli, which needs no special equipment. Monte Gorongosa is also good, and equally straightforward. Monte Binga is normally accessed from Zimbabwe, though it's possible to climb from the Mozambique side. The surrounding Montes Chimanimani are beautiful for hiking, but without any infrastructure other than a handful of basic camp sites. Other areas for hikes...
Central Maputo
Australian Consulate see 55 BIM Expresso 1 G3 BIM Headquarters 2 A5 E4 Bureau de Informag o P blica 4 G4 Canadian High Commission 5 G3 Centra Cultural Portugu s 7 G4 39 Cl nica 222 8 F4 Cl nica de Sommerschieid 9 G2 84 Farm cia Apotheka see 84 Farm cia Calendula 10 G3 Farm cia Capital amp Franca Centro E3 Farm cia Capital see 95 French Embassy 12 H2 Fundo Nacional de Turismo 13 B5 German Embassy 14 H2 Italian Embassy 15 G1 Main Post Off ice 16 B5 Malawi High Commission 17 H2 D4 Mozambique...
Greater Maputo
A3 Mercado do Peixe Fish Market 4 C3 To Benfica 4km Marracuerfe 25km Matalana 35km Maca neta 35km Points North Maputo Backpackers 6 D2 Residencial Belsol 7 D2 Residencial Kaya Kwanga 8 C3 B3 Super Mares 10 D2 Costa do Sol Stadium amp Matchiki-Tchiki C3 A3 Mercado do Peixe Fish Market 4 C3 Maputo Backpackers 6 D2 Residencial Belsol 7 D2 Residencial Kaya Kwanga 8 C3 B3 Super Mares 10 D2 Costa do Sol Stadium amp Matchiki-Tchiki C3
Town Centre
Central Pemba has slim accommodation offerings - all budget, at least in standard, if not in price - and is only worth considering if you can't find anything at Praia de Wimbi or if you have an early morning bus. Pensao Baia cnr Ruas 1 de Maio amp Base Beira d with fan US 16, with bathroom amp air-con US 20 Basic and spartan, with no-frills rooms and meals with advance notice. No clothes washing allowed. Hotel Cabo Delgado 272-21552 cnr Avs 25 de Setembro amp Eduardo Mondlane s d tw US 19 24 29...
The Gaza Kingdom
Gaza province is now famous for its beaches and coastal lakes, but as recently as the mid-19th century it was renowned as the seat of the kingdom of Gaza, one of the most influential in Mozambican history. At the height of its power around the 1850s, it stretched from south of the Rio Limpopo northwards to the Zambezi and westwards into present-day Zimbabwe, Swaziland and South Africa. One of Gaza's most famous chiefs was Soshangane, who ruled most of southern Mozambique from his base at...
Gay Lesbian Travellers
Mozambique tends to be more tolerant than some of its neighbours, although gay sexual relationships are for the most part culturally taboo. The country's small gay scene, centred in Maputo, has traditionally been quite discrete, but things are starting to open up. From an official viewpoint male homosexuality is illegal in Mozambique, although this statute is rarely enforced and gay travellers should anticipate no particular difficulties. There is very little tourism information available that...
Hiking in the Montes Chimanimani
There's a fledgling network of very rustic campsites and hikes ranging from several days up to a week for anyone wanting to explore the mountains and surrounding plains on foot. Everything's very basic and access is limited during the rainy season, but if you're self-sufficient, have access to a good 4WD and don't mind doing without the amenities, it's a good way to get acquainted with the local culture. For help arranging guides which can also be arranged at the campsites , stop by the Directo...
Sleeping 1
Pink Papaya 82-555 7310, 82-237 2980 http pink papaya.atspace.com cnr Ruas Pig vide amp 3 de Fevereiro camping per person US 4, dm d US 8 24 A welcoming and popular backpackers and the best budget option, with camping, dorm beds and doubles, and a kitchen and braai area. The owner can sort you out with horse riding and excursions in the area including to Parque Nacional de Gorongosa , plus visits up to Pink Papaya Forest Retreat pi 16 . Residential Flor de Vouga S 251-22469 cnr Av 25 de...
Monte Gorongosa
Outside the park boundaries to the northwest is Monte Gorongosa Mt Gorongosa, 1863m , Mozambique's fourth-highest mountain. Steeped in local lore, it's known for its rich plant and birdlife and its abundance of lovely waterfalls. The mountain's slopes are the only place in Southern Africa to see the green-headed oriole, and one of just a handful of places where you can see the dappled mountain robin and Swynnerton's forest robin. About 40km south of Beira and just south of the Rio Buzi is the...
Chocas
Just to the north of llha de Mozambique and across Baia de Mossuril is the old Portuguese holiday town of Chocas. It makes an agreeable Chocas OlJComplexo Turfs O Namarralo i u Lcmgd ' gt - Monapo 25km 53 Namialo 60krp Nampula 150km day or overnight excursion, except during holiday weekends when it's completely overrun. Nearby are two villages formerly used as getaways by wealthy residents of Ilha de Mozambique, abaceira Grande is the more interesting of the two, with a well-preserved church...
Peninsula De Sao Sebastiao
This isolated promontory just south of the Archipelago de Bazaruto is now part of the Vi-lanculos Coastal Wildlife Sanctuary - a private and somewhat controversial conservation and tourism initiative that's meant to combine the allure of wildlife safaris once the now-stalled wildlife restocking plans are completed and the languor of a tropical beachside getaway into one grand package see www.thesanctuary .co.za . It's dotted with small lakes, lagoons and stands of mangrove and surrounded by the...
Bilene
Despite a raft of new resort developments in the beach-facing areas, this small resort town seems stuck in a permanent time warp, with a collection of faded 1950s Portuguese-era holiday cottages and an old-timers' feel. Bilene isn't on the open ocean, but rather spread along the edge of the wide and tranquil Lagoa Uembje Uembje Lagoon , which is separated from the sea by a narrow, sandy spit. Thanks to its sheltered waters and its position as the first resort area north of Maputo, it's a...
Pebane
About 280km northeast of Quelimane is Pebane - a fishing port and popular holiday destination during colonial times, and today a charming albeit faded and quiet town not far from a long beach. There's a basic ca mpsite camping per tent US 2 on the sand near Ponta Matirre, about 4km from town, and inexpensive rooms with bucket baths and meals at Pensao Jamaima r US 12 . About 5km north of town on the beach is Macucuane Lodge in Zimbabwe 011-611298 www .macuacuane.com per person self-catering US...