Malagasy Proverbs
He who refuses to buy a lid for the pot will eat badly cooked rice. Other people's children cause your nostrils to flare. Done in by his own trade like a water merchant in the rain. spot of family or tribal significance are a popular leisure activity and are usually accompanied by a picnic. Concepts of time and date also have a great influence on Malagasy lifestyle. For example, Malagasy strongly believe in vintana destiny , which influences the dates of parties held to mark circumcisions,...
Safarivezo Netdub.mg
The following places can organise all kinds of excursions to attractions in the surrounding area. Chez Alain g 94 415 27 www.chez-alain.net in French Sans FN Down a small lane near the main taxi-brousse station, they have Information on tours and activities plus mountain bikes to rent. Les Vedettes d' Anakao 94 437 21 vedettes tulear-tourlsme.com Mahavatse 2 Formerly Compagnie du Sud, has 4WDs for hire and can help get you started on your own adventure. Motel Le Capricorne 94 431 66...
Libertalia Bungalows Map p www
.lelibertalia.com d Ar54,000 About 2.5km south of Ambodifotatra, this is one of the classiest mid-range choices on the island. The setting and beach are lovely, there's snorkelling off a private jetty, and the bright blue-and-white bungalows have fans and mosquito nets. It's a small place on a small beach, but it's friendly and very well maintained. Excursions and rental bikes can be arranged. Les Bungalows de Vohilava Map p208 S 57 402 50 www.vohilava.com r Ar62,000 The rooms here are...
Famadihana
On the crest of a hill a grove of pine trees whispers gently. In the shade, trestle tables are spread with sticky sweetmeats and bowls of steaming rice. A band plays a rollicking, upbeat tune as the stone door of a family tomb is opened. Old ladies wait at the entrance, faces dignified under their straw hats. Middle-aged men are getting stuck into lethal homemade rum, dancing jerkily to the rhythms of the band. One by one the corpses are brought out of the tomb, wrapped in straw mats and danced...
Soanieranaivongo
Soanierana-Ivongo is a small town notable primarily as a port for boats to and from lie Sainte Marie. If the pronunciation of the name defeats you, you can get away with referring to it as 'Sierra-Ivongo'. There are no really good accommodation options, so it's best to try to time your travels to avoid having to stay overnight. If you do stay, the obvious place is Hotel Les Escales 032 43 174 63 bungalows with shared bathroom Ar10,000 , right next to the boat jetty. Les Escales is also the...
Glossary
For a glossary of food and drink terms, see p43. Agate - Agence d'Acceuil T l com telephone office aloalo - elaborate woodcarvlngs used to adorn tombs andevo - traditional underclass andriana - noble Angap - Association Nationale pour la Gestion des Aires Prot g es National Association for the Management of Protected Areas , the organisation that administers most of Madagascar's parks and reserves Antaimoro- east coast tribe from the region around Manakara also the name given to a type of...
Pare National dAnkarafantsika
Probably the most interesting trip out of Mahajanga is to Pare National d'Ankarafantsika 130,026 hectares , which contains the only fully protected example of dry western deciduous forest in Madagascar. At the park headquarters in the area known as Station Foresti re d'Ampijoroa is a fascinating breeding centre for two threatened tortoise species, the flat-tailed tortoise Pyxis planicauda and the very rare ploughshare tortoise Geochelone yniphora , as well as the only Malagasy endemic turtle,...
Vegetarians Vegans
Fish-eating 'vegetarians' should have no problems in either Madagascar or Comoros. French restaurants rarely cater for vegetarians, but small local hotelys in Madagascar can usually whip up some noodles, soup or rice and greens. Protein could be a problem for vegans, as beans are not as widely available in Madagascar as they may be elsewhere. In the Comoros, vegetable dishes are harder to find, but beans are back on the menu - don't miss the delicious Swahili red-bean-and-coconut stew known as...
TaxiBrousse Hho
Morondava is 700km from Antananarivo, but the road is in quite bad condition. Driving takes between 12 and 17 hours. The tarmac is in fairly good shape until you reach Miandrivazo, when it becomes a tough-as-nails, grating 120km drive to Malaimbandy that can take six hours alone. The final bit to Antananarivo is also in very poor condition, although you won't mind so much as the scenery is so gorgeous. Rice paddies are framed by huge baobabs, and if you arrive in Antananarivo in early morning,...
Hikes Treks
Madagascar is a walker's destination. Conditions and levels of difficulty vary, but most visitors will be strapping on their walking boots at some point. These are some of the most breathtaking walks on the island. Grotte des Portugais, Pare National de I'isalo pi23 Grands Tsingy, Pare National des Tsingy de Bemaraha pi 51 Peninsula circumambulation, Masoala Peninsula p223 Ascent of Pic imarivolanitra, Pare National d'Andringitra pi 10 Pare National de Mananara-Nord, northeast coast p217 use a...
Cultural Centres
Alliance Fran aise d'Antananarivo off Map pp72-3 22 211 07 www.alliancefr.mg RueSeimad, Anda-vamamba Q Offers French and Malagasy language courses and sponsors various cultural events. American Cultural Center Map pp72-3 s 22 200 89 ramanantth S gt state.gov 7 Rue Rainizanabololona S 2-5pm Tue amp Wed, 8.30am-12.30pm Thu Occasional lectures, concerts and exhibitions. Centre Culturel Albert Camus CCAC CCF Map p76 22 213 75 www.ccac.mg 14 Ave de l'Ind pendance S 10am-6pm Tue-Sat The centre has a...
Pronunciation
pronunciation guides c before e and i, as the V in 'sit' before a, 0 and u, it's pronounced as English 'k'. When undescored with a 'cedilla' , it's always pronounced as the's' in 'sit'. r pronounced from the back of the throat while restricting the flow of air Most other letters in French are pronounced more or less the same as they would be in English. In any case, the pronunciation guides we've included should help make things a lot easier.
Ambatoloaka
Nosy Be's southernmost beach is one of the island's most popular and touristy, but far from its best. Despite its less than model look - The low, griarled ylang-ylang e-larig-e-lang tree is seen in plantations all over Nosy Be. Its scented green or yellow flowers are distilled to make oil, which is exported to the West for perfume. The trees are pruned into low and rather grotesque shapes to make picking the flowers easier. The large ylang-ylang distillery admission free 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri,...
Meningococcal Meningitis
Meningococcal infection is spread through close respiratory contact and is more likely in crowded situations, such as dormitories, buses and clubs. Infection is uncommon in travellers. Vaccination is recommended for long stays and is especially important towards the end of the dry season. Symptoms include a fever, severe headache, neck stiffness and a red rash. Immediate medical treatment is necessary. The ACWY vaccine is recommended for all travellers to the region. This vaccine is different...
The Rova Avaradrova Andohalo
The Rova Palais de la Reine Map pp72-3 Rue Ramboatiana , or royal palace, is the imposing structure that crowns the highest hill overlooking Lac Anosy. Gutted in a fire in 1995, it is still under restoration and was not open to the public at time of research. If it has reopened when you visit, remember that it is fady taboo to point your finger directly at the royal tombs or the palace itself. Even with the palace closed, the adjacent districts of Avaradrova and Andohalo are fine places to...
Scams
On arrival at Ivato airport you're very likely to be approached by one or more freelance guides, who promise to arrange transport or tours to other parts of the country, particularly the popular Tsiribihina River trip. Some travellers have found this a convenient way of departing quickly without lengthy shopping around however, even with a signed TsaraRue .f 90 J nT 49 TsaraRue .f 90 J nT 49 Emba y . 6661 3 District 3 73 Q1 contract you have few guarantees, and some readers have reported...
Midrange
H tel Shalimar Map p76 22 640 03 yascom wanadoo.mg RueMahafaka rAr30,000-60,000 El Having started life as a reputable Indian restaurant, the Shalimar has branched out or rather, up to offer accommodation over four floors of mostly spacious rooms with TV, Disney mirrors and the occasional nod to its Asian heritage. There's a travel agency on site and an open upstairs terrace, as well as a second, more basic branch of the restaurant near Hotel Sakamanga. Merina Lodge Map p76 24 522 33 merina...
Bus Taxibrousse
From the towns on the RN2, you'll be able to find onward transport to places like Andasibe and Ambatondrazaka, although once off the RN2 the roads are generally poor. North of Toamasina, taxis-brousses continue daily as far as Soanierana-Ivongo, from where you catch the boat to lie Sainte Marie. Taxis-brousses are usually prevented from travelling further north due to collapsed bridges and enormous potholes. Likewise, no taxis-brousses go south from Toamasina, but further down the coast the...
Sahambavy Tea Estate
The Sahambavy Tea Estate admission Ar7500 S 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri produces high-quality tea for export and a lesser grade for local consumption. It lies near the village of Ampaid-ranovato, about 15km east of Fianarantsoa and along the rail line towards Manakara. A visit includes a tour of the tea-processing factory and ends with a tea-tasting. Organised day excursions can be arranged in Fianarantsoa for about Ar75,000, including the entry fee. To visit on your own, take a taxi-brousse heading...
AROUND ANTSIRABE Lac Andraikiba Lac Tritiva
In the hills west of Antsirabe are two volcanic lakes, both easy day trips from town. Lac Andraikiba, the larger of the two, lies 7km west of Antsirabe off the Morondava road RN34 . In the 19th century, it was a favourite retreat of Queen Ranavalona II today it is dirty with sewage, although it's possible to walk around the shores of the lake. According to tradition, Lac Andraikiba is haunted by the ghost of a pregnant girl who drowned during a swimming competition with another girl for the...
Anakao Nosy Ve
The petite but pleasantly bustling Vezo fishing villages of Anakao A and Anakao B are blessed with an entrancing semi-circle of white-sand beach, a slice of turquoise water and a fringe of emerald-green vegetation. An assortment of guesthouses on either side of the villages are perfect for recuperating from a tough journey, doing a bit of diving or admiring the hundreds of brightly painted pirogues rocked gently by breaking waves. Very serious divers, however, consider the diving slightly...
Pare Mitsinjo
Based at the d'Analamazaotra forest station on the Andasibe road, about 150m from the R serve Sp ciale d'Analamazaotra, this private park 56 832 33 mitsinjo hotmail.com S 7am-5pm amp 6.30-9pm is run by local guides, who formed the Association Mitsinjo to promote conservation and community tourism. It's a great idea to add Mitsinjo to your itinerary before or after visiting the main park the guides here are very friendly and knowledgeable, and here you can do a night walk inside the actual...
Fady
Fady is the name given to a system of local taboos designed to respect the ancestors. Fady can take innumerable forms and varies widely from village to village. It may be fady to whistle on a particular stretch of beach, to walk past a sacred tree, to eat pork or to swim in a certain river. Although foreigners and other outsiders are normally exempt from fady or are excused for breaking them , the taboos should be respected. The best thing to do is to ask locals for information, and to be...
Sleeping Eating Bax
In the park you have a choice of camping Ar2000 or staying in a bungalow Ar OOO . The latter are very basic but are clean and come with nets. Camping grounds in the reserve include one about 3km from Mahamasina near the Petits Tsingy and Grotte des Chauves-Souris Andrafiabe on the western edge of the reserve near Andrafiabe village and Anilotra in the centre of the reserve near the Grands Tsingy. Anilotra is unpopular with campers, as there's no water source here, but lots of mosquitoes. Watch...
Hotel Belle Vue Chez Layec Diego Suarez
Budget travellers will dig Diego - there are plenty of cheap choices. Reserve in advance if you have your heart set on a particular room. H tel Belle Vue Chez Layec 82 210 21 belle vuedie blueline.mg 35 Rue Fran ois de Mahy d Ar12,000-20,000 A lively hotel that's good for linking up with other travellers - there's a noticeboard for tours. Rooms are simple, but all come with fan and net. The cheapest rooms share baths, but even these have hot water. H tel Fiantsilaka 82 223 48 13 Blvd Etienne r...
Budget 1
Hotel Mahatoky 53 300 21 Blvd de la Libert r ArSOOO-15,000 If you just need a crash pad before getting an early taxi-brousse, this litde maroon place by the gare routi re should do the job. It's very basic, but you do get mosquito nets and surprisingly good-looking showers in the better rooms the cheapest share a bathroom and squat toilet . H tel Eden 53 312 90 calypsotour netcourrier.com Blvd Joffre r with shared private bathroom Arl3,000 15,000 The simple but functional rooms at this popular...
MahavyKinkony Wetland Complex
The brand new Mahavy-Kinkony Wetland Complex, which only gained government protection status in 2007, is the result of several semiprotected areas merging into one. Now covering 268,236 hectares, it incorporates a diverse and fragile ecosystem consisting of marine bays, river and river delta, and 22 lakes, including Madagascar's second-largest, Lac Kinkony. The preserve is also home to dry deciduous and gallery forest, savannah, marshland, mangrove, caves and lots of wildlife. Decken's sifakas...
Information Onn
Agence Tourisme Verte RECA Mroni danielmoitane yahoo.fr S 8am-1pm amp 4-9pm For car hire, excursions and information about boats in the town square. Monsieur Daniel can also arrange homestayswith local families, and provide guides for hiking CF20,000 per day . The office is right next door to the BIC. BIC 71 01 71 S 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri The only bank on the island in the town square. Centre M dical Urbain de Mutsamudu 7113 Internet Shop 71 15 28 per hr CF600 S 8.30am-8pm About 70m up the road...
Ranohira
The small town of Ranohira provides a convenient base for exploring Pare National de I'lsalo and is the nearest significant setde-ment to Ilakaka, a once sleepy, now busding town at the centre of the sapphire trade. Acres of waving yellow grass stretch skyward all around the town, randomly broken up by towering rock massifs. At sunset or sunrise, the whole vista unfurls with an unearthly red and pink glow. Angap S 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon amp 2-4pm Sat amp Sun is next to Hotel Berny, 100m from...
Sights 1
The Fabrique de Papier Antaimoro Antaimoro Paper Factory 75 340 01 admission free 7.30-11.30am amp 1-5pm lies behind the H tel Aux Bougainvill es. You can see the women of the factory making paper from scratch. They start with the bark of the avoha bush, which is first boiled in water to form a pulp, then it is pounded, spread out over cotton cloth on wooden frames and left in the sun to dry. Once it's almost dry, fresh flowers are pressed into it. It is then left to dry again, after which the...