Where To Eat Drink
Sikdang is the general word for restaurant in Korean. Beyond major cities, few restaurants have English menus, but many have food photos or plastic food replicas. Many Korean meals, like bibimbap or samgyeopsal, cost under W7000, while galbi or bulgogi cost from W13.000 to W20.000 but can be shared. Soups, stews and food court meals are generally around W5000. Side dishes will automatically be included in the price. If rice is not included, it's usually W1000. If you see a dish for W20.000 or...
Martial Arts
Korean martial arts are attracting worldwide interest. Taekwondo is now an Olympic sport, but there are other lesser-known ones. Eng-lish-speaking martial art groups advertise in the Korea Herald Bulletin Board on Thursdays. The World Martial Arts Festival, held every October in Chungju p337 , includes obscure martial arts from many countries. Gicheon www.gicheon.org is an indigenous and ancient Korean martial art that is so little known that most Koreans have never heard of it. The mind body...
Incheon
Incheon, a bustling, industrial port 36km west of Seoul, is big enough to warrant its own subway line. The international airport sits on an offshore island, so be sure if you're heading to the airport that you don't go to Incheon proper. Instead, take a direct bus from Seoul. A subway service is scheduled to open in late 2007. The city has a nice waterfront area with amusement rides, sushi shops, stores and ferries, as well as a very accessible Chinatown right opposite the Line 1 Incheon...
Odusan Unification Observatory
The Unification Observatory Tong il Jeonmangdae 945 3171 www.jmd.co.kr adult youth W2500 1300 h 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Oct, Nov amp Mar, 9am-5pm Dec-Feb at Odusan is as close as most Korean civilians can get to the DMZ. Panmunjom, north of Seoul, is actually inside the DMZ and canbe visited by foreigners, but Korean civilians are not normally allowed there so make sure you don't plan on bringing a Korean friend when you take the USO tour . This large, futuristic building has a viewing...
Accommodation 1
reul eul chatgo isseoyo guesthouse yeogwan minbakjip hotel SSOI Oi CI SiOifi What is the address QiSTil EHfi Could you write the address, please jusojomjeogeojuseyo m Oi t All fi Do you have any rooms available singgeul chimdae 4J 3 S CH double bed deobeuI chimdae EH S CH twin beds Western-style room chimdae bangjuseyo SDH a room with sleeping mats e eolmaeyo per night harutbam per person see the list on this page for bed and room options 2 yeyakharyeogohaneundeyo 0 2f m amp H 8H GII2 in the...
Yongpyong Ski Resort
With world-class facilities and lots of trees, YongPyong 033-335 5757 www.yongpyong.co.kr is one of Asia's best ski resorts. It only missed out on hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics to Vancouver by 56 votes to 53. The season runs from December to March and there are 31 slopes for skiers and snowboarders, plus mogul bumps, cross-country trails and two half-pipes. A lifts-and-gondola day pass costs W56.000 42,000 adult child , while a day's ski equipment rental is W25,000 19,000 adult child ....
Public Baths
You can't really experience Korea unless you've been to a public bath. With 4300 sq metres of floor space, Hur-shimchung Map p232 adult youth child W7900 4000 5000 h 5.30am-10pm, last entry 9pm is the best place to take the plunge. Reportedly the largest jjimjilbang bathhouse in Asia, the soaking tubs, saunas and domed roof make this spectacle a great place to relax, wash and exfoliate. Guests can stay as long as they like and take a break in the 3rd-floor snack bar put on the jjimjilbang...
Sapsido
This small relaxing island, 13km from Daecheon harbour, has few cars and three relatively unspoilt sandy beaches. It attracts so many visitors that it's become Minbak Island, with nearly every one of the several hundred households offering accommodation and meals. Minbak private homes with rooms for rent are sprinkled around the island but are concentrated around the two ferry jetties. Residents don't usually lock their houses or cars. From Sulttung harbour walk for 15 minutes past the primary...
Sleeping
The best motels are clustered around the bus terminals. Plaza Motel 2341400 rW30,000 a Located off Gwagyeongno. Look for the castle turrets and alpine log-cabin entranceway in this clean and well-kept motel with rooms that include fancy headboards and a sofa. Hand the key to the jovial owners when you go out. Sting Motel 235 6668 rW30,000 a i This smart, high-rise castle motel, next door to Baekje Tourist Hotel, has light and airy rooms that are filled with facilities. The owner welcomes you...
Getting There Away
Cheongju Airport has flights to Jejudo and China, with services to Japan in summer. Departures from Cheongju express bus terminal include Destination Price W Duration Frequency Busan 14,200 Wth 9 daily Daegu 10,000 llkh hourly Seoul 6500 Vk every 10min E3 Tourist Information CentreH SlHJi 4 B3 Jung-ang Park io'oll BaekjeTourist Hotel ljSli Plaza Motel HEiJjeffl Sting Motel SS 11 A3 B3 A3 D3 Cheongju Department Store S SHj 18 E3 Seong-an-gil Shopping Street 21 B3 Express Bus Terminal tH EiOIH 22...
Geumjeong Fortress
Travellers climbing Geumjeongsan Geumjeong Mountain expecting to see a fort will be disappointed because there isn't one. Geumjeong fortress Map p232 is a long stone wall with four gates serving as expensive trail markers. Not all is lost because this is where you'll find some of the city's best hiking. Outdoor enthusiasts seeking an intimate experience with nature should avoid the mountain on holidays and weekend mornings -peak times for maddening crowds of fashionable hikers. The journey to...
ICHEON m
Just 60km southeast of Seoul is the mountain-surrounded city of Icheon not to be confused with Incheon on the west coast , famous for its numerous potters, ceramic vendors, Ceramic Village and a relaxing spa. There's no nightlife, but the city has a quiet charm. Shoppers and ceramic lovers may want to stay here overnight to have time to look around or dabble in making something at a hands-on workshop. There are excellent maps at the visitors centre 644 2020 h 9am-5pm near the Seolbongho...
Saejongjang Tongyeong
The streets immediately behind and beside the bus terminal are good places to start looking for a room. Near Gangguan, there is a handful of motels on or near the lane next to the KB bank, which is where Tongyeong's seedy side comes to life at night. Saejongjang AllSib 645 5711 d W20.000 a It's not going to win any awards for interior design - unless they start handing out prizes for nouveau grunge - but the price and location are right for travellers catching an early departure from the nearby...
Sights Activities
This spectacular limestone cave 422 3072 adult youth child W4000 2500 1500 h 9am-5pm is the The guy with bushy eyebrows that you see on signboards all over Danyang is Ondal. Born in the Three Kingdoms period, he was the local fool, but he married Princess Pyeonggang, who inspired him to study hard and become a skilled soldier. He was made a general but was killed by soldiers from Shilla. Education and a good wife turned him from a mocked fool into a respected local hero. Goral antelopes have...
Sleeping Dxg
Daecheon beach has hundreds of large, modern motels with elevators and almost luxurious rooms. Prices start at W30.000 but usually increase on Friday and Saturday and in July and August. Motel Coconuts 2133 934 6595 r W30.000 a This offers bland but neat and modern rooms, some with sea views, but the price doubles on Friday and Saturday. Motel If SH015 9315353 rW30,000-50,000 a Next to Motel Coconuts, on the left of the access road, this stylish motel has cosy rooms with black-rafter ceilings...
Gangwondo 1
Gang won-do, northeast of Seoul and bordering the ocean and North Korea, holds many of Korea's natural gems. Roads wind through wildflower-dappled valleys, rivers chase and meander their way to the sea, and verdant green mountains cloaked in mist rise up suddenly. Come here to trade the crazy neonscape of Seoul for rural majesty, or visit the quiet but still fun cities of Chuncheon or Gangneung. Gang won-do has several of South Korea's most beautiful national parks, including Se-oraksan, whose...
NAMHAE ISLAND yH
It's the country's third-largest island and a terrific place to explore a slower pace of life, so clearly evident in the countryside where some farmers continue to use oxen to plough rice paddies. Some of Korea's nicest beaches are located on the southern coast, including Sangju f 51 19 and Songjeong o S 5H t 9 . Sangju is an especially attractive beach thanks to its soft white sand and a stand of trees that create an illusion of isolation. Public transport to Sangju from Namhae City is...
Island Hopping In The West Sea
Sandy beaches, sea views, rural scenery, vineyards, fresh air and fresh seafood - the West Sea islands are a different world to Seoul. Dozens of islands are technically part of the Incheon municipality, even though it can take hours to reach them by boat. The islands are mostly rocky, though coves hide a few excellent sandy beaches. Some islands have rare smooth-stone beaches. The stones are called mongdol and it takes centuries of tidal action to produce them. It is illegal to collect these...
Sleeping 1
Two camping grounds free are open in July and August. Songnisan Park Hotel 542 3900 rW39,000 a Clean and comfortable Western and ondol rooms can be found here in front of Lake Hills Hotel in the tourist village. The off-peak room price is W30.000. Birosanjang 543 4782 rW60,000 This special yeogwan motel is all on its own in a great location up in the mountains inside the park. You can hike up to it one hour or get a taxi W10.000 . The off-peak price is W40.000.
SHOPPING Ppf
Bustling traditional markets that sell everything under the sun can still be found in most cities and towns, while modern high-rise fashion malls, ritzy departments stores packed with brand-name shops, and chain stores cling together in semi-pedestrianised streets that fill up with people in the evenings. Korean craft shops abound and souvenir shops are mixed in with restaurants in the tourist villages that have grown up at the entrances to national and provincial parks. In Seoul, specialist...
Panmunjom The Dmz Tour
Panmunjom, only 55km north of Seoul, is the only place in the Demilitarized Zone DMZ where visitors are permitted. This is the village established on the ceasefire line at the end of the Korean War in 1953. In the blue UN buildings in Panmunjom, peace discussions still take place, though there's something surreal, almost comic, about the pomp and precautions. Perhaps even more surreal is the giant, ultramodern train station at the border, empty save for tourists, yet ready to serve a united...
NAMHAN SANSEONG PROVINCIAL PARK y
Completed in 1626, Namhan Sanseong 743-6610 www.namhansansung.or.kr , a temple fortress complex and wall 20km southeast of downtown Seoul, is famous for its beautiful pine forests, wildflowers and oaks. It once guarded the city's southern entrance, while Bukhan Sanseong guarded the northern approaches. Buddhist monks - soldiers rather than pacifists in those days - lived here and kept watch. Numerous hiking options wind through the forests, some of them paralleling the old fortress wall,...
Daegu Jagalmadang
Daegu's fascinating traditional-medicine market is its biggest tourist draw. Come here to see strange roots the size of human thighs, jars of honey-coloured liquids, baskets of flowers, dried leaves and medicinal herbs. Even if it's pouring rain the avenues smell fragrantly of these ancient cures, which many Koreans still swear by today though Viagra is gaining a foothold in the 'stamina-producing' arena . A simple, two-line subway system makes getting around easy, and the country's...
SUANBO HOT SPRINGS a
This relaxing spa resort, 21km southeast of Chungju, is small enough to walk round, and its restaurants specialise in rabbit, duck and pheasant meals. Nearby is Woraksan National Park and a small ski resort. The tourist information centre 845 7829 is on the main street near the bus terminal. Less than 2km from Suanbo Hot Springs is Sajo Ski Resort Al-S 1 846 0750 www.sajoresort.co.kr , which is very modest in scale, a big handicap in a country that believes bigger is better. There are seven...
Gangneung
Gangneung is the largest city on the northeast coast of Korea and hosts an annual Dano Festival p 176 , held for the past 400 years. It is the gateway to Jeongdongjin beach, Odae-san National Park and Korea's top ski resort, YongPyong. It's also pretty in itself, with a lagoon, beach, 'tofu town' and more. The main tourist information centre 640 4414 www.gntour.go.kr h 8am-10pm isnearthebus terminal and there is a smaller booth in front of the train station. They have both English-and...
Sleeping Bxk
Danyang lacks new motels, and the lakefront accommodation, like the town itself, is 20 years behind the times. Despite their Graeco-Roman fa ades, motel rooms are only average. Daemyung Resort is the best bet if you can obtain a special deal. Rivertel 422 2619 www.erivertel.com r W30.000 a i A variety of small, rather basic rooms are available here from owner Mr Kim, who speaks some English. Choose between a good view, a computer in the room or a larger room with a table and chairs. Syanel...
The Confucian Mindset
The cultural divide separating Western and Korean thinking can be synthesized into two questions. Westerners ask why something is the case. In Korea, the great existential question is, 'how can I live in society ' The answer comes from Confucius. Confucianism is a social philosophy, a prescription for achieving a harmonious society. Not everyone follows the rules but Confucianism does continue to shape the Korean paradigm. It's what makes Koreans different from Westerners. Obedience towards...
Andong
The whole area surrounding Andong, roughly in the middle of Gyeongsangbuk-do, is peaceful, rural and notable for having preserved much of its traditional character. Famous for its mackerel, its strong sojuand its wooden masks, Andong makes a good base for exploring the numerous sights outside the city. Some sights are a considerable distance away and getting to them requires a series of bus rides, often with inconvenient schedules. Ask at the tourist information booth for help planning your...
Chuncheon M
The City of Lakes', proud birthplace of the scrumptious yet mouth-scalding dakgalbi chicken, rice cakes and veggies cooked with spicy chilli paste , still retains the charm and quiet of a small town, despite its size. Four pretty artificial lakes surround the city the provincial capital , making for beauty, nice bike rides and in season mosquitoes. Whether you are up in the surrounding mountains, on the shoreline, or in the lakes themselves, you'll find that it's a gorgeous spot however,...
Seoraksan National Park
This park 636 7700 http npa.or.kr sorak eng npa intro.htm adult youth child W3400 1300 700 , open two hours before sunrise and closed two hours before sunset, is one of the most beautiful on the entire Korean peninsula -North and South. It boasts oddly shaped rock formations, dense forests, abundant wildlife, hot springs and ancient Shilla-era temples. Unesco has designated the area a Biosphere Protection Site and Seoraksan itself Snowy Crags Mountain will leave you in awe. Sinhe-ungsa Temple...
Seomyeon
Cowboy Map p233 drinks W4000 h 4pm-2am Anyone doing the rounds in Seomyeon at some point pulls into Cowboy. Dark and smoky with thumping Korean pop music interspersed with classic-rock tunes, the open-floor concept and wooden bar make it possible to mingle and on occasion hook up. Lotte Hotel Lobby Lounge Map p233 drinks W4000 Here's the upscale lizard lounge you've been looking for. Palm trees, comfy chairs and live muzak created by the duo with a piano and iMac. Throw in a decent Irish coffee...
Suwons
Suwon, 48km south of Seoul, is the provincial capital of Gyeonggi-do and a city of sensual neon, exotic flavours, all-night discos and ancient history. The faithfully restored fortress of Hwaseong draws tourists from around the globe. It was built between 1794 and 1796 during the reign of King Jeongjo and has been designated a World Heritage site. Suwon is also close to the Korean Folk Village pl47 and makes an easy day trip from Seoul. The main tourist information centre 228 4672...
DONGHAE H sH
Donghae is far from quaint and verges on unattractive, but this east-coast port has popular beaches, ferry service to Ulleungdo island p212 , buses to nearby Mureung Valley and a small cave in the downtown area. A useful tourist information centre 530 2868 h 9am-6pm is outside the Cheon gok Donggul entrance. The most interesting thing about this cave 532 7303 adult youth child W4000 1100 700 h 9am-6pm Mar-Oct 9am-5pm Nov-Feb is that it was only discovered in 1991 .and that it is in the centre...
Language Difficulties
yeong-eo hasineunbun gyeseyo Oi SWIb gilAllfi How do you say in Korean eul reul hangug-euro eotteoke malhaeyo m t QiS CHSTil SHfi What does mean ga i museun . ,.3 gt l 0l r jalmoreugenneun deyo Please write it down.
Info
Ac'iy v AH.- gt .- It gt iwi .' Bus Stop UV'-S -dt Country Club f - Gwanbone . - gt gt 850m S U4 Country Club f - Gwanbone . - gt gt 850m S U4 Bus Geuphaeng W1300 connects Donghwasa and the bus stop near Dong-daegu station, running at least once every 12 minutes and taking 50 minutes to complete the journey. This Unesco World Heritage temple 055-931 1001 admission W3500 h 8am-11am, noon-5pm Wed-Mon should be on every visitor's not-to-be-missed list. Haeinsa holds 81,340 woodblock scriptures,...
Geumsan
This market town www.geumsanchungnam .kr is where 80 of the nation's insam ginseng is marketed. Leave the Geumsan bus terminal and turn left, walk for 10 minutes and turn right across a bridge along Bihoro Yakchoro. On the left is Matkkalbokjip SiS S meals W10,000-15,000 h 11am-10pm , where two ladies serve up local ginseng specialities such as insam twigim SI amp tI t I ginseng tempura . Walk on a few minutes more across a bridge and on the left is Geumsan Insam amp Herb Market hej fg A g- ....
Around Gyeongju
Many tourists do this area as a day trip out of Gyeongju - and wish they'd budgeted time to stay overnight. It's hard to improve on the outstanding examples of traditional Korean architecture in sublime settings. This beautiful and peaceful hillside Joseon-dynasty village Map ppl98-9 is full of superb mansions and traditional wooden houses. It's been designated as a preservation area. The village was established in the 15 th and 16 th centuries and consists of around 150 houses typical of the...
Juwangsan National Park
Far to the east of Andong and reaching almost to the coast, this 106 sq km park admission W2600 h sunrise-lhr before sunset is dominated by impressive limestone pinnacles that seem to appear from nowhere. Beautiful gorges, waterfalls and cliff-face walks also feature strongly, and with any luck you'll glimpse an otter or protected Eurasian flying squirrel, among the 900-plus species of varied wildlife here. The main gateway to the park is the town of Cheongsong, about 15km away. There is a...
Minbak Yeogwan
The path to Ssanggyesa is lined with restaurants, souvenir shops, a water wheel and a grandmother selling saengchikjeup c i-i b per glass W1000 , a muddy juice thought to provide hikers with a blast of energy. A few metres before the wheel, Jirisan Yeogwan XI 1 h 01 amp 8831668 ondol W30.000 has basic ondolrooms overlooking a creek. A group of travellers will find better value in a millbak turn right past the water wheel to find a dozen or more places with rooms for W30.000.
Pohang
Pohang is a good springboard to Ulleungdo or the even more remote Dokdo, but isn't particularly scenic in itself. The largest city on Korea's east coast and an important industrial centre, Pohang is dominated by Posco Pohang Iron amp Steel Company , the world's second-largest steel maker. The city centre is quite lively, however, and Bukbu Beach on the north side of town is popular with both visitors and locals. The two central intersections, Ogeori and Yukgeori, 'five-road' and...
ULLEUNGDO fHE
Come to Ulleungdo to get away from it all in the true sense - not the way the spa-resort brochures mean. The scenery is spectacular, offering vistas of spun-cotton clouds lazing over volcanic cliffsides, seabirds and fishing boats, quiet harbours dotted with piles of nets or buoys, and jagged coastline that could easily be from the set of Lord of the Rings. It's that beautiful. And that's it. Thankfully, there are no amusement parks or huge resorts the most touristy that this place gets is a...
Gyeongju
Known as 'the museum without walls', Gyeongju holds more tombs, temples, rock carvings, pagodas, Buddhist statuary and the ruins of palaces, pleasure gardens and castles than any other place in South Korea. Tumuli grass-covered burial mounds are only the most conspicuous and accessible of the sights. In 57 BC, around when Julius Caesar was subduing Gaul, Gyeongju became the capital of the Shilla dynasty, and it remained so for nearly 1000 years. In the 7th century AD, under King Munmu, Shilla...