HOTEL PRICE CHART Rmu

Rates are per room with private bath, based on double occupancy, including breakfast. serving Mugellan specialties , the 10-room Albergo Gualtieri Via S. Lucia 7, Fraz. S.Lucia, s 0558-42163, fax 0558-423051, sits in prime adventure territory north of the town on the approach to the Passo della Futa and SOFT trails 11 and 12 . San Piero a Sieve In the old center of San Piero a Sieve, the nearly 100-year-old Albergo La Felicina Piazza Colonna 14, s 0558-498181, fax 0558-498157, cristina19651...

The Valnerina

The Valnerina, Umbria's green heart, is an adventure sports paradise a mix of high and low land rock and waterways historic and artistic monuments. There is lots of sightseeing to attract your attention in between the hiking, cycling, rock climbing, rafting and other activities. The area includes the Cascade Marmore the Marmore Falls , at 165 m 541 feet , the highest waterfall in Europe, the Parco Regionale Fiume Nera Nera River Regional Park and, to the south, Lago di Piediluco Piediluco Lake...

The Cannibal Count

Condemned in Dante's Inferno to an eternity of skull gnawing, it seems that Cannibal Count, Ugolino della Gherardesca, wasn't as bloodthirsty as was previously thought. Gherardesca was found guilty of treason and left to die ofhunger with his children and grandchildren in the Torre della Muda in the late 1280s, where according to legend, he staved off the inevitable by eating his relatives. However, DNA tests of bones found in the family crypt in 2002 disproved the theory We should bear in mind...

LOCAL FLAVORS Sdb

Zuppa di farro della Lucchesia Thick soup made from spelt grain. Biroldo di Garfagnana Spicy salami. Tordelli Lucchesi Meat-stuffed egg pasta. Red beans Local kidney-shaped beans served in traditional dishes like pasta and beans, or steak and beans. Capretto Roast mountain goat. There's also slow-cooked rabbit stew, eel from the Serchio river in zimino cooked with herbs , and dolci such as buccellato, a large round cake made of wheat flour, sugar, vanilla and aniseed. Accompany these flavors...

Not To Be Missed

Piazza del Duomo Famous address of the Duomo, Campanile and Battistero see page 33-34 . Galleria degli Uffizi The most select picture gallery in the world and potent symbol of Medici power see page 38 . Palazzo Vecchio Medieval town hall architecture at its most forceful see page 37 . Galleria dell'Accademia Home to Michelangelo's David see page 48 . Via dei Tornabuoni Even if you can't afford to buy, you'll enjoy the window-shopping on this luxury-laden street see page 67 . Piazza Repubblica...

Sightseeing in Foligno

Start your visit on the Piazza della Repubblica and the Piazza Duomo -two adjoining squares at the junction of four main streets that form the historical center's rectangular-shaped heart. Overlooking it is the Duomo Cathedral , the 13th-century Palazzo Comunale Town Hall and adjoining Palazzo Orfini, the Palazzo Pretorio and the Palazzo Trinci. The Palazzo Trinci preserves some of the city's most valuable frescoes and wall decorations. Many of the city's museums are in this area as well....

SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS Yuo

IKS9I Probably one of the most unusual amusement parks in Tuscany is Ciclilandia Cycleland, Piazza dei Fiori, Tirrenia, w 050-33573, www.ciclilandia.it, daily, summer, 3 30-8 pm, 9 pm-midnight, winter, 2 30-6 pm, 6, conc. 4, bikes for hire from 3.60 . Kids can use mountain bikes, cycle-carriages, cycle-go-karts and get bicycle lessons. They even receive a special driving license All are watched over by the traffic police. There's also a Pirates' Castle, complete with tunnels, bridges, slides...

Orchids

An unusual feature of the Argentario is the number of wild orchids, some 40 different species, making it the most important orchid area in Italy after the Galgano. Aceras anthropophorum left, also known as Hanged man , Ophrys apifera, Ophrys bertolonii, Ophrys tenthredinifera which looks like an insect are just some of the blooms to look for. Porto Ercole Port of Hercules , south of Orbetello, is the oldest of the island's towns and a former stronghold of the Spanish State. The Spanish built...

Ghost Town

Created after World War II, the artificial Lago di Vagli Vagli Lake covers the town of Fabbriche di Car ggine, which reappears every 10 years when the electricity company, ENEL, empties the lake for maintenance the next showing is in 2014 . As it drains, the ghostly village reappears first church steeple, then campanile, stone house, bridge and finally the dilapidated paving stones, which you are allowed to walk upon. If you arrive out of drainage season, you can rent boats at Vagli Sotto,...

Adventures on Foot on Monte Cetona

Trekking itineraries up Monte Cetona can be picked up from Cetona and Sarteano. Some of the best include the half-day walk from Centona into the Parco del Biancheto on the side of Monte Cetona site of some of its best prehistoric caves . After a hard slog in the Chiana countryside, head to the tiny village of Casciano dei Bagni, south of Monte Cetona. Unlike many of the commercial spas, the 42 thermomineral springs that erupt out of the ground around the village are mainly left to run free. You...

Sightseeing Adventures Wfs

pi Luni Although Luni just across the Tuscan border from Carrara now PtMjl belongs to the territory of La Spezia, its history, not to mention its name, is indelibly linked to that of Lunigiana. Founded by the Luni tribe at the mouth of River Maga, it was eventually taken over by the Romans in 177 BC. It then grew in importance as a military port as the vast remains from the time of Augustus testify. This growth tailed off in the fourth century, leaving the town almost deserted, until Lorenzo...

Michelangelos Road

Local marble provided Michelangelo with the material for masterpieces such as David, but with prices so high and transportation so difficult and dangerous, he decided to take matters into his own hands. The result was a new road, built to transport the huge blocks to the sea. But the road was thought lost until traces of it were discovered several years ago in the most overgrown part of the Apuan Alps the Valley of Monte Carchio. It can be started from Serravezza by following the road alongside...

Bike Rental In Siena

CentroBici Viale Toselli 106, s 0577-282550, www.sienabiking.com, 16 a day, 155 a week DF Bike Via Massetana Romana 54, s fax 0577-271905, dfbike biemmepro.it Ginanneschi Antonio Via E S Piccolomini 35, s 0577-283930 Ricci Autonoleggi Piazza Maestri del Lavoro 12, s 0577-226068 and, just out of the city, Berti Guiliana-Rent Bike c o Bar Sport, Via Campo a Paolo, Casciano di Murlo, s 0577-818058 . A number of loop trails take you out and back from Siena, including routes to Monteriggioni 23...

Marble In Pietrasanta

With the marble mountains of the Apuan Alps on its doorstep, Pietrasanta quickly rose to prominence in the marble industry. Important local sculptors made their mark on the town architecture the baptismal font in the cathedral by Bonuccio Pardini 1389 , the logetta of the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino by Leonardo Riccomanno 1431 and the decoration of the cathedral chancel 1502-07 by Lorenzo Stagi, with son Stagio later adding the two holy water fonts and 16th-century candelabra. Find out about their...

Hiking Etiquette

Do not stray from the designated hiking trails. Respect the environment by not damaging or collecting rocks or minerals. Do not damage the dunes by walking on them unnecessarily. Respect the plants and animals - don't feed the animals or collect samples of any kind. Do not camp outside of the designated areas. It is forbidden to light fires due to the high fire risk. Bring sufficient supplies of water, as there are no fountains or springs along the Maremma itinerares. Bring bug repellent and a...

The Island of Elba

BPSI Elba, the pearl of the Archipelago, is the biggest P y and most important of the islands. It is best known -beaches and diving apart - for the exile of Napoleon, who was confined here from the 4 Mar 1814 to the 26 Feb 1815, and traces of his stay can be visited as soon as you step off the ferry at Portoferraio. Frequented from the end of the Etruscan era for the richness of its mineral mines - in particular iron ferro , hence the name of its main town, Portoferraio - Elba was first...

Excursions from Pistoia Valdinievole

You're entering some of Italy's prime spa territory as you head west into Valdinievole, the Valley of the Mist. Trains on the Florence-to-Viareggio line stop at Montecatini Terme get off at Montecatini Centro after passing through Pistoia. From here Lazzi buses depart from the train station every 15 minutes to Monsumanno Terme which can also be reached on Copit buses directly from Pistoia . The towns are also reached by car from the Montecatini exit of the A1. You can also reach Monsummano on...

Alpine Refuges

Rifugio Alpino La Selletta Via Brennero 249, Abetone, s 0573-60171 Rifugio CAI Portafranca San Marcello Pistoiese, s 0573-490338 Two major routes dedicated to orienteering can be found in the Montagna Pistoiese, one at Cutigliano, the other at the biogenetic nature reserve of Piano degli Ontani, near Abetone. There are also some fascinating nature walks offered by the nature reserve of Macchia Antonini, the 5,600-acre forest of Maresca and Abetone the Abetone nature trail taking you around the...

Emergency Telephone Numbers

a branch of the police Department Italian Automobile Club telephone inquires P l While Italy has a generic star-classi-l jlTI fication system for hotels, most star categoriesfrom the deluxe five-star down to the most basic one-star - are fixed with the provincial tourist office and quality and prices can vary considerably between provinces. Prices are generally lower during the off-season months November to March and even hotels that enforce a set price throughout the year can be bargained...

Information Sources Jex

Tourist Offices There are pro locos dotted all over the Val d'Orcia or Orcia Valley, with the bigger centers at Pienza Piazza Pio II, w fax 0578-749071, www.comunedipienza.it, Mon-Sat, 9 30 am-1 pm, 3-6 30 pm , Montalcino Costa del Municipio 1, w fax 0577-849331, www.prolocomontalcino.it, Tues-Sun, 10 am-1 pm, 2-5 30 pm and Abbadia San Salvatore Via Adua 25, w 0577-775811, fax 0577-775877, www.amiataturismo.it, Mon-Sat, 9 am-1 pm, 4-6 pm, Sun and public holidays, 9 am-1 pm . Otherwise you can...

SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS Hyh

The Centro Visita di Badia Prataglia s 0575-559477, fax 0575-559447, cvbadiaprataglia interfree.it organizes monthly activities nature games, guided visits, orienteering, product-tasting and so on for children and young adults from July to September. Asqua Serravalle, s fax 0575-539173, www.asqua.it organizes L'Educagioco Mon-Fri, 1-5 30 pm, 5 , a summer babysitting center for kids aged seven to 12 with games and lessons about the local environment. Dominated by the profile of the late...

Getting Here Around Ojg

By Car The SS75 drops south from Foligno to Spoleto and continues onto Terni, where it meets with the A1 highway your best approach if arriving from Rome and the south . Arriving from Florence and the north, you should opt for the Val di Chiana-Perugia-Foligno junction of the A1. From there you can access Foligno and Spoleto along the SS3. Car rental is available in Spoleto with Avis Loc. S. Chiudo 164, s 0743-46272, fax 0743-220840, www.avisautonoleggio.it , Hertz Via Cerquiglia 144, s fax...

On Foot 1

There are plenty of hikes and nature walks in Migilarino-San Rossore-Massaciuccoli Regional Park see page 11, 251, 258, 286 to the west and the Monte Pisano see page 294 to the east. If you wish to join the local group of the CAI Via Cisanello 2, Pisa, 3 050-578004, you can do so every Wed and Thurs see the website for the latest excursion information. Migilarino-San Rossore-Massaciuccoli Regional Park There are plenty of walking and cycling routes in the pine forests of this coastal natural...

LOCAL FLAVORS Rmv

Cacciucco alla Viareggina - Locally caught fish flavored with tomato, Farro con il pesce - Spelt with fish. Focaccia del calvatore - Quarryman's bread. Sparnocchi con fagioli - Prawns and beans. Triglie con fave, pomodori e basilico - Mullet with broad beans, tomato and basil. Zuppa alla frantoiana - Ham, bean, potato, carrot and celery soup dressed with newly-pressed oil. In a region famed for its seafood, you can't really go wrong when choosing a daily special from the board at Angelo Viale...

The Original Ice Cream

Florence has a lot to thank Bernardo Buontalenti for, as an architect of unquestionable skill and the inventor of ice cream. He is thought to have put together the concoction a frozen mix of milk, butter, eggs, honey and fortified wine for a Medicean grand banquet of visiting Spanish gentries. In tribute, Florentine gelaterias or ice cream sellers to this day sell a flavor akin to the original recipe and named after the great Renaissance man. Where to Buy Considered the best ice cream maker in...