Kadikoy
This is where the city's grunge set comes to party, and party it certainly does. The length of Kadife Sokak is filled with unpretentious bars and caf s that are busy from late morning to late at night. During the day, coffee and games of Scrabble, Monopoly and backgammon are on the agenda at night, cheap beer, live music and conversation take over. Karga Bar see below is the most famous of the street's establishments, but Isis and Bahane Kiiltiir and a host of others are great back-ups. Dress...
A Day On The Bosphorus
A trip along the Bosphorus offers treats galore. See how many times you can make your way to Asia from Europe and back Highlights include Beylerbeyi Palace p215 , Rumeli Hisari p217 , the Sakip Sabana Miizesi p21 and Hidiv Kasri p218 and the Sadberk Hanim Miizesi p218 . We suggest two itineraries to make the most out of your day on the water. Catch the 10.35am Bosphorus excursions ferry to Anadolu Kavagi p219 . After admiring the view from the ruined castle on the hill, take the No 15A bus down...
Kanlica To Stinye
One of Istanbul's most famous seafood restaurants, Korfez Restaurant opposite , is on Kanlica's outskirts, almost directly under the bridge. This is the perfect place to spend an afternoon, eating lunch on its outdoor terrace while watching the ferries and boats sail past. Just near Korfez is the late-19th-century Ethem PertevYali, with its boathouse and ornate wooden decoration. High on a promontory above Kanlica is Hidiv Kasri Khedive's Villa 216-413 9644 CubukluYolu 32, Kanlica admission...
The City Ascendant
The 21 -year-old conqueror saw himself as the successor to the imperial throne of Byzantium by right of conquest, and he began to rebuild and repopulate the city. Aya Sofya was converted to a mosque a new mosque, the Fatih Conqueror Camii p95 , was built on the fourth hill and the Eski Saray Old Palace was constructed on the third hill, followed by a new palace at Topkapi p62 a few years later. The city walls were repaired and a new fortress, Yedikule pi 28 , was built. Istanbul, as it was...
Earliest Times
Semistra, the earliest-known settlement on the site of Istanbul, was probably founded around 1000 BC, a few hundred years after the Trojan War and in the same period that kings David and Solomon ruled in Jerusalem. Semistra was followed by a fishing village named Lygos, which occupied Seraglio Point Seray Burnu where Topkapi Palace stands today. Around 700 BC, colonists from Megara near Corinth in Greece founded the city of Chalcedon now Kadikoy on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus. Chalcedon...
Sultanahmet 1
It really is a shame that the quality of food served up in Sultanahmet's eateries is so mediocre. Some of the local restaurants have lovely settings and great views, but boy-oh-boy their food is disappointing disgraceful is a word that frequently comes to mind . We've eaten our way through the neighbourhood, and are forced to limit our recommendations to those below. Once or twice, we have listed a place because its setting is so wonderful that it doesn't matter too much that its food isn't....
Bosphorus Tour
Divan Yolu and Istiklal Caddesi are always awash with people, but neither is the major thoroughfare in Istanbul. That honour goes to the mighty Bosphorus Strait, which runs from the Sea of Marmara Marmara Denizi at the Galata Bridge Galata Kopriisii all the way to the Black Sea Karadeniz , 32km north. Over the centuries the Bosphorus has been crossed by conquering armies, intrepid merchants and many an adventurous spirit. These days, thousands of Istanbullus commute daily along its length,...
Tours
Hassle Free Tours 213 5969 www.anzchouse.com Cumhuriyet Meydani 61 This well-known outfit is based at the Anzac House hostel in anakkale. It runs Gallipoli tours for 30 and Troy tours for 26. The three-hour Troy tour leaves at 8.30am the 5' 2-hour Gallipoli tour leaves at 11.30am and includes lunch at the Maydos Restaurant in Eceabat. It's possible to do both tours in one day. Hassle Free also organises round-trip Gallipoli tours from its istanbul office Map p50 , which includes transport, a...
Bebek To Kanlica
Opposite Bebek on the Asian shore is Kirmizi Yah Red Yah , constructed in 1790 and one of the oldest mansions still standing a bit further on, also past the village of Kandilli, is the long, white Kibrisli Mustafa Emin Pasa Yah. Next to the Kibrisli Yah are the Biiyiik Goksu Deresi Great Heavenly Stream and Kii iik Goksu Deresi Small Heavenly Stream , two brooks that descend from the Asian hills into the Bosphorus. Between them is a fertile delta, grassy and shady, which the Ottoman elite...
Touring the Battlefields
Gallipoli is a fairly large area to tour it's over 35km as the crowflies from the northernmost battlefield to the southern tip of the peninsula. The principal battles took place on the western shore of the peninsula, near Anzac Cove and Ariburnu Cemetery, and in the hills just to the east. With a car you can easily tour the major battlefields in a day and be in a Qanakkale hotel by nightfall. If you're in a hurry, a morning or afternoon will be enough time to see the main sites. Most of the...
Bekta Ortakoy 1
The caf s, bars and restaurants around the waterside road skele Square in Ortakoy form a bustling entertainment precinct that's particularly busy on Friday and Saturday evenings and on weekend days. Be aware that getting here by taxi during these times can be a nightmare due to the horrendous traffic along Qiragan Caddesi. BANYAN Map p117 Asian 212-259 9060 Salhane Sokak 3, Ortakoy starters YTL12-20, mains YTL25-40 Snoon-2am SB Ortakoy The menu here travels around Asia, featuring Thai,...
Galata Tophane 1
This part of town once had a very unsavoury reputation it s still reasonably quiet at night, so be a bit careful walking around after dark. The enclave of eateries near the Karakoy ferry terminal is well worth checking out, as is the caf at the stylish Istanbul Modern pi 02 . There are also a few good eateries around Calata Tower. Map p103 Modern International 3 212-249 9680 istanbul Modern, Medis-i Mebu-san Caddesi, Tophane sandwiches YTL13-15, salads YTL11-20, mains YTL13-45 S 10am-6pm...