CWarning LateNight Crime
Crime in Dublin—and most specifically late-night crime—has been on the ascent in recent years. What's most alarming about these aggressions are the random, senseless acts of violence that can occur on any street in Dublin after dark. These attacks are often booze-fueled and happen on streets that are perfectly safe during the day. Be especially on your guard in the areas around O'Connell Street and Grafton Street after pubs' closing time. Never walk back to your hotel alone after this hour.
Ryan's of Parkgate Street This Victorian gem also houses a fine gourmet restaurant. You'll see some of Dublin's best traditional pub features, including a metal ceiling, a domed skylight, beveled mirrors, etched glass, brass lamp holders, a mahogany bar, and four old-style snugs. It's on the north side of the Lif-fey, near Phoenix Park. 28 Parkgate St., Dublin 7. & 01/677-6097.
Searson's This formerly down-at-its-heels rugby pub underwent a face-lift and has a new lease on life, thanks to hordes of Ballsbridge yupsters who pack the place every evening after work. The weekday crowd is wall-to-wall suits; Saturdays are more relaxed. Actor Gabriel Byrne is a regular. 42 Upper Baggot St., Dublin 4. & 01/660-0330.
Stag's Head Mounted stags' heads and eight stag-themed stained-glass windows dominate the decor, and there are wrought-iron chandeliers, polished Aberdeen granite, old barrels, skylights, and ceiling-high mirrors. Look for the stag sign inlaid into the sidewalk. This place is a classic. 1 Dame Court (off Dame St.), Dublin 2. & 01/679-3701.
PUBS FOR TRADITIONAL & FOLK MUSIC
Brazen Head Sure it's touristy, but it's an institution. This brass-filled, lantern-lit pub claims to be the city's oldest, and it might very well be, considering that it was licensed in 1661 and occupies the site of an even earlier tavern dating from 1198. Nestled on the south bank of the River Liffey, it is at the end of a cobblestone courtyard and was once the meeting place of Irish freedom fighters such as Robert Emmet and Wolfe Tone. A full a la carte menu is offered and traditional music sessions start at 9:30pm nightly. 20 Lower Bridge St., Dublin 8. & 01/677-9549.
The Castle Inn Situated between Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral, this recently rejuvenated bi-level pub exudes an "old city" atmosphere. It has stone walls, flagstone steps, suits of armor, big stone fireplaces, beamed ceilings, and lots of early Dublin memorabilia. From May to September it is also the setting for an Irish ceili (traditional music and dance session) and banquet. 5 Lord Edward St., Dublin 2. & 01/475-1122.
Chief O'Neill's One of the city's best haunts for gimmick-free traditional music, in the hotel of the same name. Smithfield Village, Dublin 7. & 01/817-3838. www.chiefoneills.com. Bus: 25, 25A, 66, 67, or 90.
Mother Red Caps Tavern A former shoe factory in the heart of the Liberties section of the city, this large two-story pub exudes Old Dublin atmosphere. It has eclectic mahogany and stripped pine furnishings, antiques and curios on the shelves, and walls lined with old paintings and 19th-century newspaper clippings. On Sunday there is usually a midday session of traditional Irish music;
everyone is invited to bring an instrument and join in. On many nights there is traditional music on an informal basis or in a concert setting upstairs. Back Lane, Dublin 8. & 01/453-8306. No cover except for concerts.
O'Donoghue' 's Overrated Tucked between St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Street, this much-touristed, smoke-filled enclave is widely heralded as the grand-daddy of traditional music pubs. A spontaneous session is likely to erupt at almost any time of the day or night. 15 Merrion Row, Dublin 2. & 01/676-2807. Oliver St. John Gogarty Situated in the heart of Temple Bar and named for one of Ireland's literary greats, this pub has an inviting old-world atmosphere, with shelves of empty bottles, stacks of dusty books, a horseshoe-shaped bar, and old barrels for seats. There are traditional-music sessions most every night from 9 to 11pm, as well as Saturday at 4:30pm, and Sunday from noon to 2pm. 57-58 Fleet St., Dublin 2. & 01/671-1822.
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