Pathani Samanta Planetarium
This interesting planetarium 2581613 JL Nehru Marg admission Rs 12 S 2-6pm Tue-Sun, show in English 4pm features hour-long 'out-of-this-world' shows. Orissa Tourism 2431299 www.orissatourism.gov.in behind Panthanivas Bhubaneswar, Lewis Rd S 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat in month offers a free guided tour of Bhubaneswar's temples at 8am on the last Sunday of the month. The tour, starting and finishing points are different each time, so contact Orissa Tourism for details. A city tour offered...
E
East India Company 47,49 economy 37,56 electricity 1125 Elephanta Island 797-8,990 elephants 82,84,994 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 1001 Dubare Forest Reserve 907 Havelock Island 1119 Indira Gandhi Annamalai Wildlife Sanctuary 1093 Nagarhole National Park 904 Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 968 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary 1002 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 988 rides 459 safaris 91, 472,567 ThrlssurPooram 1016 Ellora 809-11,810, gt 91 embassies 1134-5 EME Electrical Mechanical Engineering Temple 729...
In The Park
For most accommodation in the park, book in advance, in person, with the WWO in Ooty p1098 . In low season, you may be able to get accommodation if it's available by asking directly at the park reception centre. The following three park-run places are walking distance from park reception and on the banks of the river. Minivet Dormitory r per person Rs 35 A clean place, with two four-bed rooms, each with private bathroom with cold water only. Theppakadu Log House d q Rs 330 560 and Sylvan Lodge...
Nainital
Kumaon's largest town and favourite hill resort, Nainital gets crowded with holidaying families and honeymooners during peak seasons. Occupying a steep forested valley around the deep, green volcanic lake Naini, it's an attractive, upbeat place founded by homesick Brits reminded of the Cumbrian Lake District. Disaster struck here in December 1880 when a major landslide buried a hotel and 150 people, creating the memorial recreation ground now known as the Flats. Plenty of hotels are set in the...
Bhavnagar
Bhavnagar is a busy industrial centre that makes a useful base for journeys to nearby Shatrunjaya and Velavadar National Park. Founded in 1743, Bhavnagar has long been an important cotton trading post, but now supplements its survival on diamonds, plastics and ship parts - Bhavnagar lock gate keeps ships afloat in the port at low tide. The tangled bazaars and crumbling wooden houses of the old city feel remarkably untouched by the outside world, but otherwise there's little to see, and tourists...
Bylakuppe
In the exodus from Tibet that followed the 1959 Chinese invasion, thousands of Tibetan refugees settled around Bylakuppe, 5km southeast of Kushalnagar, where the Karnataka government gifted them 1200 hectares of land. The area has since sprouted several villages centred around monasteries where maroon-and-yellow-robed monks are a common sight and Tibetan arts and crafts are practised. The atmosphere in the villages is heart-warmingly welcoming. Contact Namdroling Monastery below or the Sera Jey...
Joshimath
Reached by a hair-raising mountain road from Rishikesh that hugs steep-sided valleys for the final few hours, Joshimath is a ramshackle two-street town that serves as the gateway to Auli ski resort, Badrinath Temple, and treks to the Valley of Flowers, Hem Kund and Kuari Pass. As such it's a major destination for Hindu and Sikh pilgrims as well as trekkers. The town itself is a rather ugly administrative centre full of rusting rooftops, erratic power supply and limited places to eat, but it's a...
Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum
Andhra Pradesh's 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several million people. This museum Map p939 23391486, ext 306 Mahavir Marg, Masab Tank admission free S 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat , run by the government's Tribal Welfare Department, exhibits photographs, dioramas of village life, musical instruments and some exquisite Naikpod masks. It's basic, but you'll get a glimpse into the cultures of these fringe peoples. The library here has books on Indian...
K E R A L A
To Coimbatore 20km Indira Gandhi Annamalai I Wildlife Sanctuary 80km I Kodaikanal 150km f To Coimbatore 20km Indira Gandhi Annamalai I Wildlife Sanctuary 80km I Kodaikanal 150km f Coonoor is one of the three Nilgiri hill stations -Ooty, Kotagiri and Coonoor see the Nilgiri Hills map, p1096 - that lie above the southern plains. Climbing up out of the busy market area and looking down over the sea of red tile rooftops to the slopes behind, there's a strong sense of what hill stations were...
Rajaji National Park
This unspoilt park Indian foreigner upto 3 days Rs 40 350, camera free Rs 50, video 2500 5000 S15 Nov-15 Jun , covering 820 sq km in the forested foothills near Haridwar, is best known for its wild elephants, numbering around 450 to 500 at last count. As well as elephants the park contains some 38 tigers and 250 leopards although they are not as easily seen as these numbers suggest. They have thousands of chital spotted deer and hundred of sambars India's largest species of deer to feed on. A...
Marine National Park
This gorgeous, isolated park Indian foreigner Rs 30 250, Narara car permit Rs 35 200, camera Rs 50 250, video Rs 2500 US 200 SOct-Jun stretches 170km along the coast and encompasses 42 islands, 33 of which are ringed by coral reefs. It's rich in marine and bird life. The best time to visit is from December to March. The Forest Office left administers the park, or you can arrange a visit or a sailing trip to Mandvi through Hotel President p756 . It takes two hours to reach Pirotan island timings...
Benaulim
Less than 2km south of Colva, Benaulim is much more peaceful and rustic, with numerous guesthouses and small hotels spread over a wide area. Jacinta Moraes Tourist House 2770187 d Rs 150250 With chickens squawking about the house and garden and a bubbly woman in charge you're guaranteed a memorable stay. The clean rooms are a bargain at twice the price. Rosario's Inn 2770636 d from Rs 250 Rosario's, next to the football ground, is a huge, good-value backpackers inn just a couple of minutes'...
Kathakali
There are several places in Kochi where you can view Kathakali see the boxed text, below . The art form of Kathakali crystallised at around the same time as Shakespeare was scribbling his plays, though elements of it stem from 2nd-century temple rituals. The Kathakali performance is the dramatised presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. All the great themes are covered - righteousness and evil, frailty and courage, poverty and...
Mayabunder Around
In Mayabunder there's an unexpected gem in the shape of Sea'n'Sand 273454 thanzin_the _great yahoo.co.in r Rs 200-500 , a simple lodge, restaurant and bar overlooking the water 1km south of the town centre. Run by Titus and Elizabeth, along with their young family, it's low-key and will appeal to travellers looking for an experience away from the crowds. Titus organises a range of boat-based day tours per tour from Rs 500-2500 that, depending on the season
Little Rann Sanctuary
This is not a region for the faint-hearted. The barren, blindingly white land of Little Rann is nature at its most harsh and compelling, and home to India's last remaining population of khur Asiatic wild ass . There's also a huge bird population, and the area is one of the few places in India where flamingos are known to breed naturally. Khurs and flamingos are protected in the 4953-sq-km Little Rann Sanctuary admission Indian foreigner Rs 5 US 5, camera Rs 20 US 5, video Rs 2500 US 200 S...
Tabo Gompa
The choskhor sacred compound at Tabo was founded in AD 996 by the Great Translator, Ringchen Zangpo, who hired the best Buddhist mural painters from Kashmir to decorate the walls. Visitors must arrange a time to view the murals with the monks at the modern monastery new door. The compound is centred on the huge gTsug Lha-Khang Assembly Hall , a dark and atmospheric chamber ringed by exquisite murals and suspended life-sized stucco statues of 33 bodhisattvas. Together with the four-sided effigy...
SLEEPING Gqw
Mooleppura Guest House 2525980 r without with AC Rs 600 1100 a If you are on a budget, this has small, bucolic rooms in a friendly family home 500m south of the sanctuary entrance. Tharavadu Heritage Home 2525230 www .tharavaduheritage.com r without with AC Rs 1200 1800 a Tharavadu means 'large family house', an apt description. Rooms are in the perfectly restored, 1870s teak family mansion, or in individual, creekside cottages. All are well crafted, some with glistening teak-wood beams, and...
History Fkk
With a relatively small army, Maratha leader Shivaji 1627-80 established a base at Pune and later Raigad, from where he controlled the Deccan and conquered more than 300 forts during his reign. Shivaji, still highly respected, is credited for instilling a strong, independent spirit among the region's people. From the early 18th century the Maratha empire came under the control of the Peshwas, who retained power until 1819 when, after much tussling, the British barged them aside. After...
Dimapur
Nagaland's flat, largely uninspiring commercial centre was the capital of a big Kachari kingdom that ruled much of Assam before the Ahoms showed up. All that remains are some curious, strangely phallic pillars of a former palace complex dotted about scraggy Rajbari Park admission free near an interesting market. The only reason tourists visit Dimapur is to transfer to Kohima. Right beside the NST bus station, the Tourist Lodge 226355 Kohima Rd dm s d Rs 40 150 200 is a basic but acceptable...
Info Jyz
From the north of the Maidan p497 , stroll at random through the crumbling colonial wonderland of BBD Bagh p498 . Collect a Marble Palace permit at West Bengal tourism for tomorrow then brace yourself for Chinatown p498 . Recover with a meal or coffee on Park St p508 and tour the Indian Museum p495 . Reach the grandiose Victoria Memorial p492 by 7.15pm for the sound-and-light show. Next day see the colourful Mullik Ghat flower market p498 and head for Belur Math p501 and Dakshineswar p502 ,...
Mosque of Dilawar Khan
Built by Dilawar Khan in 1405, this mosque is Mandu's earliest Islamic building. Typically for this era, there are many Hindu elements to the architecture, notably the pillars and ceilings inside. Turkish Bath amp Champa Baodi Champa Baodi, so called because its water supposedly smelt as sweet as the champak flower, is a step-well surrounded by subterranean vaulted chambers cooled by Munja Tank. Stars and octagons perforate the domed roofs of the adjacent hammam, which had hot and cold water...
Mothanguri Lodge
Staying at Mothanguri within the park is Manas's top highlight. Two simple, lonely lodges are 20km north of Bansbari beside the unguarded Bhutan border crossing. Choose the seven-room upper lodge with its enchanting views across the Beki River and a stuffed man-eating tiger in the lounge. Bring food and diesel fuel for the generator . Book months ahead through the Manas Field Director's Office 261413 abhijitrabha hotmail.com Main Rd, Barpeta Rd . Guwahati-Kokrajhar buses serve Pathsala junction...
Himachal Pradesh
McLeod Ganj is the volunteering capital of Himachal Pradesh, with numerous opportunities to work with Tibetan refugees, both long and short term. See p325 for more details. About 6km south of Manali in the village of Rangri, the Himalayan Buddhist Cultural School 01902-251845 palkithakur yahoo.com has placements for experienced teachers who are willing to volunteer for six months or more. This is a working school, so call or email before turning up on the doorstep. Volunteer placements for...
Kisli
Apart from Baghira Log Huts, the following are within 500m of Khatia Gate. There are some small dhabas in the same area. Panther Resort 277233 dm Rs 240, r Rs 350-900 The best budget option is run by friendly Tushar, who has a handle on everything going on in Kisli. Basic, fan- and air-cooled rooms are housed in emerald-green bungalows and meals are cooked over an open fire. Pugmark Resort 277291 pugmark1kanha yahoo .co.in s d Rs 800 1400, American Plan Rs 1200 2400, Jungle Plan Rs 900 1800 The...
Manipur
This 'Jewelled Land' is home to Naga, Kuki, Chin and many other tribal peoples but the main grouping is the predominantly neo-Vaishnavite Meitei, who are battling to have Meitei script used in local schools. Manipuris are famed for traditional dances, spicy multi-dish thalis and the sport of polo that they claim to have invented. Manipur's forested hills provide cover for rare birds, drug traffickers and dozens of guerrilla armies making it by far the northeast's most dangerous state....
Garo Hills
Although administratively within Meghalaya, the rolling green Garo Hills are easier to visit from Guwahati than from Shillong. The landscape's undulations vary from charming patchworks of rice field, cassava-patch and orange orchard to sad slash-and-burn hillsides of depleted jungle choked with gourd-creepers and bamboo thickets. Towns aren't visually distinctive, but cottages in small hamlets remain traditionally fashioned from bam boo-weave matting and neatly cropped palm thatch. Around 80 of...
Info Buy
Nabadwip amp Mayapur 522 Murshidabad amp Bodhgaya 557 Dungeshwari Cave Temples 562
AYURVEDA Etz
Ayur Dara 2502362 www.ayurdara.de Murikkumpadam, Vypeen Island 1- 7-day treatment incl lunch Rs 1000 7000 h 9am-5pm Run by a world-renowned Ayurvedic practitioner, it's 4km from the Vypeen Island ferry autorickshaw Rs 30 . Appointment necessary. Cochin Ayurvedic Centre Map p1004 2217103 fort_hs yahoo.com Santa Cruz School Rd, Fort Cochin massage treatment from Rs 500 h 9am-7pm Recommended Ayurvedic massage and treatment. Kerala Ayurveda Chikitsa Kendram Map p1008 2376916 Kannanthodathu Lane,...
EATING DRINKING Unf
Chamba is known for its chukh - a chilli sauce consisting of red and green peppers, lemon juice and mustard oil, served as a condiment in most restaurants. Most places are open from 8am to 10pm. Caf Ravi View Chowgan snacks Rs 20-40 h 9am-9pm A modern HPTDC-run snack house, on the river side of Chowgan, serving Indian and Chinese fast food - including a bargain veg thalis Rs 35 - plus icy cold beers. Jagan Restaurant Museum Rd dishes Rs 25-100 Opposite the Dogra Bazar, this place offers the...
Padum To Darcha Via Shinkun La
This extremely popular seven- to eight-day route follows the Tsarap Valley east towards Darcha on the Manali-Leh hwy in Lahaul. A road is slowly being built along the valley, allowing trekkers to cut out several stages at the start and end of the trek. Starting from Padum, the route runs east to Raru on foot or by jeep then up to Purne in two moderate days. Most trekkers then detour north to the cave monastery at Phuktal and spend a second night in Purne to prepare for the sustained climb to...
Sleeping Eating Mjc
Most places offer significant discounts, except during festivals. Meera Hotel 234031 High Way Rd s d tr Rs 120 180 240, with AC Rs 500 750 1000, thalis Rs 40 a This hotel is on the main approach road, and rather on the outskirts, but has a good range of rooms - those on the top floor are cheap and cheerful, while the deluxe rooms are comfortable. There's a popular dining hall, which does good thalis. Kokila Dhiraj Dham 236746 Hospital Rd r Rs 300 This Reliance hotel is seriously good value...
Other Areas Kyb
Hotel Ajaya Map p426 2203707 fax 2202224 Kabir Chaura Rd s d from Rs 200 300, with AC Rs 500 700 a The rooms vary a lot in this generally well-kept place near Hotel Buddha - those with AC are much nicer and some have balconies. The hotel also has a restaurant and bar. Hotel Buddha Map p426 2203686 hotel buddha rediffmail.com s Rs 350-400, d Rs 450-500, d with AC from Rs 650 750 0 Buddha has long been one of the better budget hotels in the Lahurabir area with light modern rooms with TV, built...
Nimatighat
This windswept sandbank is the departure point for photogenically overcrowded ferries to Majuli Island. On an otherwise deserted river-island reached from here by private launch Rs 50 , newly opened Mou Chapori River Resort 9435357171 hornbill121 rediff.com furnished tent bamboo hut luxury cottage d Rs 600 1200 2000 has traditionally styled hut-accommodation. From here the one-day group tours Rs 800 per person are a particularly convivial way to visit Majuli Island. Book via Rhino Travels p598...
Lesbian Japan Bus
For details of major bus routes from Harid-war, see the table, below. Private deluxe buses and sleeper buses run to Agra seat sleeper Rs 240 400 , Delhi Rs 180 300 , Jaipur Rs 350 450 and Pushkar Rs 450 550 . They leave from a stand around the corner from the GMVN tourist office and any travel agent in town can make a booking. The main taxi stand is outside the train station on Railway Rd. Official rates include Chilla for Rajaji National Park, Rs 300 , Rishikesh Rs 460 and Dehra Dun Rs 650 ....
Kakkabe
The region around the village of Kakkabe is an ideal base if you're planning an assault on Kodagu's highest peak, Tadiyendamol. The small and picturesque Nalakunad Palace admission free h 9am-5pm , 3km from Kakkabe, is the recently restored hunting lodge of a Kodagu king and dates from 1794. Within walking distance of here you'll find several excellent places to stay. Hill Honey Valley Estate 238339 huts amp r with shared bathroom from Rs 200, d with private bathroom from Rs 700 is a wonderful...
Sonamarg
Set in a sweeping, forested valley, Sonamarg was once a popular trekking destination, but the town now has a heavy military presence. The road to Leh and Kargil passes through Sonamarg, so you can enjoy the scenery from the bus, even if you don't stop over. For those who do stay, J amp KTDC 2417208 can arrange ponies for day trips to beauty spots like the spectacular Thajiwas Glacier, 4km above town. For accommodation and meals, try the well-run J amp KTDC Tourist Huts 2417208 dm Rs 150, r Rs...
Deeg
Built by Suraj Mahl in the mid-18th century as a summer resort for the Bharatpur rulers, Deeg was also the second capital of Bharatpur state. The town held a famous battle in which the maharaja's forces withstood a combined Mughal and Maratha army of 80,000 men. Deeg is now famous for the Suraj Mahl's Palace Gopal Bhavan admission Rs 100 h 10am-5pm Sat-Thu , one of India's most beautiful and delicately proportioned buildings. It is splendidly preserved and feels like a time capsule - it was...
Cooking Courses
You might find yourself so inspired by Indian food that you want to take home a little Indian kitchen know-how - the listings below represent just a few of the ever-increasing number of places offering cooking courses. Some are professionally run, others are very informal, and each is of varying duration. Most require at least a few days' advance notice. Bhimsen's Cooking Class p325 McLeod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh Cook amp Eat p1006 Kochi, Kerala Deepa c o Saraswati Music School p194 Pushkar,...
Pristine Beach Resort alexpristine
hotmail.com huts Rs 100-150, cottages with private bathroom Rs 250-400 Run by an affable couple, these cute huts, good restaurant and a licence to serve alcohol make this a cut above most places. The bar stays open late for night owls but quietly enough to allow other guests to sleep . It's on a nice bit of beach. Island Vinnie's Tropical Beach Cabanas 282187 www.islandvinnie.com cabanas without with bathroom Rs 450 1200 New in 2006, these comfortably furnished pink canvas tents, raised on...
Kumily
There's a growing homestay scene in Kumily offering better bang-for-your-rupee than the town's uninspiring hotels. Green View Homestay 211015 www.sureshgreen view.com Bypass Rd s Rs 150, d incl breakfast Rs 300-600 With loads of greenery, there are great large and airy doubles here, all with balconies and small sitting areas - though the singles are tiny. The garden out the back has hammocks to laze in and the hosts are very friendly. HIU'IM Coffee Inn 222763 coffeeinn sancharnet .in Thekkady...
BUS Oxl
The bus station has a ticket office S 8am-noon amp 1.30-7pm off Link Rd No 2. There are regular buses to Jhansi Rs 90, five hours including deluxe services Rs 170, 9am and 11.15am the second connects with the Jhansi-Delhi Shatabdi train. There's a bus to Agra Rs 240, 10 hours, 8am and, on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, a night bus to Varanasi Rs 190, 14 hours, 3pm . Three buses run to Satna Rs 80, hours, 7.30am, 2pm and 3pm and there are regular services to Mahoba Rs 40, four hours and to Madla...
Hoysala Architecture
The Hoysalas, who ruled this part of the Deccan between the 11th and 13th centuries, originated in the hill tribes of the Western Ghats and for a long time were feudatories of the Chalukyas. They didn't become fully independent until about 1190, though they first rose to prominence under their leader Tinayaditya 1047-78 , who took advantage of the waning power of the Gangas and Rashtrakutas. Under Bittiga 1110-52 , later named Vishnuvardhana, they began to take off on a course of their own it...
Kutch Creativity
The crafts of Kutch are beautiful and intricate, with a diversity that reflects the differing traditions of different tribes. Numerous local cooperatives invest in social projects and preserve the area's artistic heritage by ensuring work is not merely market driven. Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan 256281 11 Noolan Colony, Bhuj is a grass-roots organisation, comprising 8000 rural women 2000 artisans , that pays members a dividend of the profits and invests money to meet social needs. The...
Airport Area
Hotel Tarra Map pp120-1 26783677 A-72, St 2, Ma-hipalpur Extn, National Hwy 8 s d Rs 450 495 a Hallelujah Budget travellers have somewhere respectable to stay if their flight departs at a silly hour. Tarra has eight ordinary but comfy rooms arranged around a small garden courtyard. Its location, in a quiet unpaved lane, means you can sleep like a baby. Passengers departing within 24 hours of arriving by plane, can avail of the retiring rooms of the domestic terminal 25675126 per person Rs 505 a...
AROUND KHAJURAHO Raneh Falls
These waterfalls 07686-272622 Indian foreigner Rs 10 200, compulsory guide Rs 40, video Rs 200, autorick-shaw car entry Rs 15 30 S 6am-6pm are 18km from Khajuraho - a Rs 300 autorickshaw or Rs 400 taxi return journey. While the falls are only 30m high they are wide and tumble as a churning mass over black and red rocks. There are boats for hire Indian foreigner Rs 50 100 and it's possible to view gharial or mugger river crocodiles 1km away at Ken Gharial Sanctuary S1 Oct-30 Jun .
Gramphu to Kaza
From the dhaba at Gramphu, the road to Spiti follows the gorge of the Chandra River, which was carved by glaciers as the Himalaya thrust upwards 50 million years ago. There are few permanent settlements, but buses stop for chai at Chattru, a small cluster of dhabas around the first bridge over the Chandra. There's second bridge and a single stone-hut dhaba at Battal, where a rough track runs 14km north to lovely Chandratal Moon Lake , a tranquil glacial pool set amongst snow peaks at 4270m....
Pahalgam
Set in a magical valley beside the Lidder River, Pahalgam is framed by pine forests and snow-covered peaks that bear more than a passing similarity to the Rocky Mountains. This was once Kashmir's most popular resort, but today it exists in a state of limbo, empty for most of the year, but deluged with visitors during the annual Amarnath yatra pilgrimage from June to August see p362 . Outside of the pilgrimage season, this is a fine spot for walking, pony trekking or just enjoying the cool,...
The Kishkinda Trust
The Kishkinda Trust TKT 08533-267777 wwwthekishkindatrust.org runs programmes and builds business opportunities in Anegundi that benefit both the local community and help preserve the village's heritage and culture. The first project in 1997 created a cottage industry of crafts using locally produced cloth, banana fibres and river grasses. It now employs over 500 women and the attractive crafts are sold across India you can view the range at the Hoova Craft Shop amp Caf h 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,...
Old Manali 1
Uphill from Manali on the far side of the Manaslu Nala stream, Old Manali is a well-established traveller centre. Most hotels and restaurants close down for winter in late October. Jungle Bungalow Map p307 252278 s d with shared bathroom Rs 100 150 Firmly targeting the backpacker market, this faded but inexpensive guesthouse has sparsely furnished rooms and big communal balconies. It's on the path above the Club House. Veer Paying Guest House Map p307 252710 veer-guesthouse rediffmail.com r...