Nupsstadur Nupsstadarskogar
Bizarrely eroded cliffs and pinnacles tower over the old turf-roofed farm and church at NupsstaSur. The farm buildings date back as far as the early 19th century, and the church, which is dedicated to St Nicholas, was mentioned as early as 1200. It was renovated in 1957 by Einar Jonsson and is one of the last turf churches in Iceland. Inland is NupsstaSarskogar, a beautiful woodland area on the slopes of the mountain Eystrafjall. Since it's no longer possible to cross the Nupsa river by raff,...
HUSAVfK WHALE MUSEUM
Best visited before you head out on a whale-watching trip, this excellent museum HvalamiSstoSin 464 2520 www.icewhale.ls Hafnarstett adult 6-14yr lkr600 250 S 9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm May amp Sep will tell you all you ever needed to know about these gracious creatures. Housed in an old slaughterhouse at the harbour, the museum looks at the ecology and habits of whales, orcas, dolphins and other marine mammals, whale conservation, and the history of whaling in Iceland. The 'Ocean Odyssey -...
trekking at hornstrandir
The most popular starting points for hikes are Hesteyri and Hornvik. Many of the peninsula's easiest walks are around Hesteyri, where marked trails make the going quicker and safer. From the abandoned whaling station at Hesteyri you can hike north over the ridge to the coastal village of Saebol in ASalvik in about six hours. From here it's an easy three hours or so to the clifftop lighthouse at Straumnes. Heading east along the lagoon at Rekavik, you can follow the headland north to the pretty...
Hve Rage Rdi
To Raufarh lshellir 15km Porl kshofn 20km To Raufarh lshellir 15km Porl kshofn 20km Library 2 B3 Upplyslngaml sto Su urlands Geothermal Swimming Pool 6 C2 Landb na arh sk ll Islands 7 C2 Mlnjasafn Kristj ns Run lfssonar 9 B3 Natttirukeknlngafelag Island Glstlhelmlll Frost og Fun 12 B1 Glstlhelmlll Frumsk gar 13 A2 Hverakaup Supermarket 18 B2 Tian 20 B2 Vin B see 21 Shell Petrol Station 22 B3 483 4531 Sunnum rk2 S 2-7pm Mon amp Wed-Fri, to 9pm Tue, 11am-2pmSat in Iceland. While you're here yes,...
Morsardalur Bejarstadarskogur
The seven-hour hike from the camp site to the glacial lake in Morsardalur is fairly ordinary but enjoyable. There's a footbridge across the lake outlet, and from there you can continue to Kjos. Alternatively, cross the Morsa on the footbridge near the point where the Kamb-gil ravine comes down from SkaftafellsheiSi and make your way across the gravel riverbed to the birch woods at Baejarstadarskogur. The trees here reach a whopping for Iceland 12m, and 80 C springs flow into the tiny but...
The Interior
Travelling in Iceland's interior will give you a new understanding of the word 'desolation'. You may have travelled the Ring Rd thinking that Iceland is light on towns that sheep seem to outnumber people that you haven't run across a McDonald's for many a mile. Well, you ain't seen nothing yet. Here there are practically no services, accommodation, hot-dog stands, bridges, mobile-phone signals or guarantees if something goes wrong. Gazing across the expanses, you could imagine yourself in Tibet...
Midrange 1
Akureyri has a good selection of guesthouses, but the best places get booked up fast, especially in summer. Most are open all year and offer substantial discounts in the off season. HiU'imi Akurlnn Map p213 461 2500 www .akurinn.is Brekkugata 27a s d without bathroom Ikr3500 5000, with bathroom lkr5200 6800 A cut above most of Akureyri's guesthouses, this heritage home has a variety of rooms with high ceilings, wood floors and period charm. Crisp white linens, pale neutral colours and simple...
Hiking
The Landmaelingar Islands topographical sheet for this region is No 84, Herdubreid 1 100,000 1986 . From the f gt 6rsteinsskali hut a marked trail runs to HerSubreiS and you can then hike all the way around it in a day. The mountain looks the same from all sides, so disorientation is a possibility, but if you remember that Kollotadyngja is west-northwest and HerSu-breiSarlindir is east-northeast, orientation shouldn't be too difficult. HerSubreiS was once thought to be un-climbable, but it was...
Quirky Reykjavik
Held in a huge industrial building by the harbour, the weekend Kolaportid Flea Market Map p72 Geirsgata Sl1am-5pmSat amp Sun is a Reykjavik institution and definitely worth a visit. Browse through piles of second-hand clothes, music, antiques and children's toys, or pick up Icelandic fish delicacies including cubes of hdkarl. For an Icelandic joke, at the beginning of Bankastraeti look north towards the detached building Stornarradid Map p72 , which contains the prime minister's offices. The...
Food Drink 1
For much of its history Iceland was a poverty-stricken hinterland where food was solely about survival. Its traditional dishes reflect a 'waste not, want not' frugality and are viewed by foreigners less as sustenance and more as body parts from a slasher movie see p58 . Icelandic farmer-fishermen had a hard time sparse soil and long, harsh winters meant crop-growing was limited, and those who lived by the coast wrested a dangerous living from the sea and shore. Sheep, fish and sea birds and...
Isafjorbur
Vin Bu5 Gull au ga the town bore witness to some of the fierce battles between whalers and environmental campaigners that eventually led to the worldwide ban on commercial whaling in 1989. In 1991 a tunnel was constructed to link Isafj rSur and the previously isolated communities of SuSureyri and Flateyri. The three towns and nearby Mngeyri were amalgamated into a single administrative unit called Isaf-jarSarbaer in 1996.
Icelandic Embassies Consulates
Following is a partial list of Icelandic embassies and consulates in other countries. Australia 02-9365 7345 iceland bigpond.net .au 16 Birriga Rd, Bellevue Hill, Sydney 2000, New South Wales Canada 613-482 1944 www.iceland.org ca 360 Albert St, Suite 710, Ottawa OH KIR 7X7 Denmark 33 1810 50 www.iceland.org dk Strand- Faeroe Islands 3011 01 info faroeyard.fo JC Finland 09 612 2460 www.islanti.fi Pohjoisespla- France 01 44 1 7 32 85 www.iceland.org fr 8 Ave Germany 030-5050 4000 www.iceland.org...
Krysuvik Seltun
The volatile geothermal field Austurengjar, about 2km south of Kleifarvatn, is often called Krysuvik after the nearby abandoned village. Even by Icelandic standards, this area is prone to geological tantrums. The temperature below the surface is 200 C and the water is boiling as it emerges from the ground. A borehole was sunk here to provide energy for Haf-narfjorSur during the 1990s, but it exploded without warning in 1999 and the project was abandoned. At Seltun, boardwalks meander round a...
Graenalon
From the southern end of NupsstaSarskogar a good two-day hike will take you over the ridges and valleys west of immense SkeiSararjokull to Graenalon. This ice-dammed lake has the ability to drain like a bathtub. The 'plug' is the western edge of SkeiSararjokull and, when the water pressure builds to breaking point, the glacier is lifted and the lake lets go. It has been known to release up to 2.7 million cubic metres of water at 5000 cubic metres per second in a single burst. To get there...
Namafjall
Produced by a fissure eruption, the pastel-coloured Namafjall ridge lies south of the Ring Rd, 6km east of ReykjahliS. It sits squarely on the spreading zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and is dotted with steaming vents. A walking trail leads from the highway at NamaskarS pass to a view disc at the summit. This 30-minute climb provides a grand vista over the steamy surroundings. North of the pass is another ridge, Dalfjall, which sports a large and growing notch - dramatic evidence that the...
dorshofn
The town of forshofn http thorshofn.com , has served as a busy port since saga times and saw its heyday when a herring-salting station was established here in the early 20th century. Today it's a pretty modest place but makes a good base for visitors heading to the eerily remote Langanes peninsula or on to RauSanes. Tourist information is available at the swimming pool 4681515 S 4-8pm Mon-Thu, 3-7pm Frl, 11am-2pmSat on the Langanes road. There's also a bank with an ATM in town. The annual Happy...
Short Treks
From Rte F249, you can easily hike up to Steinholtsjokull, a tongue of ice extending off the north side of Eyjafjallajokull. The ice has carved a sheer-sided, lOOm-deep gorge, and the short river Stakksholtsa flows out from under it and winds down to Markarfljot. Further west the larger glacier Gigjokull descends into a small lagoon right beside Rte F249, filling it with carved icebergs. To explore the main icecaps at Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull you'll need special equipment - including...
Sleeping Eating Fib
Camp site 452 4520 sites per person Ikr500 Occupying a lovely setting near the river, this camp site has good washing and toilet facilities. GlaSheimar 452 4403 www.gladhelmar.is Blondu-byggS 10 s d lkr6000 7500 Set in the former post-office building, this comfy guesthouse has nine simple but tasteful rooms sharing three bathrooms and two kitchens. The owners also operate a series of cabins by the camp site sleeping two to eight people Ikr 10,500 to Ikrl6,000 per night . The larger cabins even...
Festivals Events
If you are here in early November, stop by for the unusual 10-day DagarMyrkurs Days of Darkness , when the town perversely celebrates the failing light and the onset of winter with dark meals, dark dances, ghost stories, star walks, Northern Light spotting, and torch-lit processions When life gives you lemons Around the third weekend in June, EgilsstaSir's annual jazz festival Djasshatid Egilsstada www.jea.is takes place at various venues in the area. The possible existence of the lake monster...
Hafursstadavatn
The park's southern anchor is Dettifoss, and 8km to the north are the springs and luxuriant vegetation of Holmatungur. Right in the heart of the park is Vesturdalur, with lots of caves and Iceland's most interesting basalt formations. Near the northern end is Asbyrgi, a verdant, forested plain enclosed by vertical canyon walls. From Dettifoss to Asbyrgi on Rte 864 is 25km, about 40 minutes' drive on the rough road. Ranger Station- . Kirkjan amp Camp Site Trollid Ranger Station- . Kirkjan amp...
Snefellsnes Peninsula
To Flatey 18km Brjanslzekur 30km To Flatey 18km Brjanslzekur 30km Dj pal nSSand rQODluPaton StapafeU yOArnarstapi ,- lt iml Gatklettur Purkh lar Hellnar SkarOsvik H U'ngialdsholl ndverdarnesa QS B Jgirfcn E0 lafsv l F k H 579 Modulation- y Vatnshnrf i Rau feldsgj L ,1446ml . iMll.il . ar5ar Holaholar ,0 ' BreiSavik Buoaklettur vtriT,, Dj pal nSSand rQODluPaton StapafeU yOArnarstapi ,- lt iml Gatklettur Purkh lar Hellnar space and good views, and there's a time-warp restaurant mains Ikrl750 to...
The Golden Circle
Gullfoss, Geysir and Mngvellir are unique sites commonly referred to as the Golden Circle. These sites make up Iceland's major tourist destinations, offering visitors the opportunity to see a wild, roaring waterfall, spouting hot springs and the country's most important historical area in one condensed, doable-in-a-day tour. Although they're mobbed by coach parties year-round, they're still worth visiting for their undeniable natural beauty. Hiring a car will mean you'll be able to enj oy other...
The Eastfjords
Unlike the histrionic, wildly folding West-fjords, the Eastfjords wiggle more modestly around the coast. It's like the difference between an overtheatrical actor chewing up the scenery, and an underemoting character in some Scandinavian arthouse film. Despite good surfaced roads and all the smelter-related activity, the Eastfjords still feel pretty remote - a feeling enhanced by immense, dramatic mountain sides and the tiny working fishing villages that nestle under them. The fjords are a...
Reykjahlio
To H sav k 54km Akureyri 100km To H sav k 54km Akureyri 100km Ti' V sar Skin ' Akureyri via t Skutui.ta ir i l04kml f Information Centre 1 B3 Sparisj u Myvetninga Bank see 2 A2 Magma Essentials 4 C3 14 Swimming Pool 5 D2 Ti' V sar Skin ' Akureyri via t Skutui.ta ir i l04kml f A2 Magma Essentials 4 C3 14 Swimming Pool 5 D2 I lt 'i i nrHj',l,in llin . 7 I Gamll Baerlnn12 B2 Hotel Reykjahlid see 10 Slue Lasr-'r'r 0km Bjafnafflaz'Flat m Mvvatrt Nature Batns m i-'rafla 1 Skm , E ilssta in l amp kmi...
Veidivotn
This beautiful area just northeast of Landmannalaugar is an entanglement of small desert lakes in a volcanic basin, a continuation of the same fissure that produced Laugahraun in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. This is a wonderful place for wandering, and you can spend quite a lot of time following 4WD tracks that wind across the tephra sands between the numerous lakes. On the hill to the northeast is a view disc pointing out the various lakes and peaks. VeiSivotn lies 27km off the southern end...
Kaldidalur Langjokull
Southeast of Husafell, the Kaldidalur valley skirts the edge of a series of glaciers and offers incredible views of the Langjokull icecap and on fine days the snows of Eiriksjokull, Okjokull and borisjokull. Although there's no public transport along unsurfaced Rte 550, you can drive south in a private vehicle to bingvellir. Many tour companies including TREX www .hopferd.is engl tours daytours.htm , Activity Group www .activity.is , Mountain Taxi www.mountaintaxi.is and Eskimos www.esklmos.is...
Kroflustod
The idea of constructing a geothermal power station at Krafla was conceived in 1973, and preliminary work commenced with the drilling of 24 test holes to determine project feasibility. In December 1975, however, after a rest of several hundred years, the Krafla fissure burst into activity with the first in a series of nine eruptions and 20 cases of surface subsidence. This considerably lowered the site's projected geothermal potential and nearly deactivated one of the primary steam sources, but...
Keflavik Njarovik Reykjanesbar
The twin towns of Keflavik and NjarSvik, on the coast about 50km west of Reykjavik, are a rather ugly mush of suburban boxes and fast-food outlets. Together they're known simply as 'Reykjanesbaer'. Although they aren't somewhere you'd want to spend a massive amount of time, they're the largest settlement on the peninsula and make a good base for exploring the area. If you've an early flight they're handy for the airport. If you're around at the beginning of September, the well-attended Night of...
SOUTH OF EGILSSTAOIR Lagarfljot
The grey-brown waters of the river-lake Lagarfljot are reputed to harbour a fearsome monster, Lagarfljotsormurinn Lagarfljot Ser pent , which has allegedly been spotted since Viking times. The last 'sighting' was in 1987, when it was glimpsed coiled up in an inlet at Atlavik camp site. The poor old beast must be pretty chilly - Lagarfljot starts its journey in the Vatnajokull icecap and its glacial waters flow north to the Arctic Ocean, widening into a 38km-long, 50m-deep lake, often called...
Sleeping Eating Klo
Kirkjubae II camp site s fax 487 4612 sites per person Ikr600 S Jun-Sep This neat green site with sheltering hedges is right in town. It has pretty good facilities, including a kitchen, hot showers IkrlSO per five minutes and a laundry Ikr750 minimum . Kleifar camp site 487 4675 sites per person IkrSOO There's a second, more simple, camp site 1. 5km along Rte 203 signposted towards Geirland . Hotel Klaustur 487 4900 www.lcehotels.ls Klausturvegur 6 s d from Ikrl 3,000 16,200 One of the...
Emergency Huts
ICE-SAR Icelandic Association for Search amp Rescue 570 5900 www.icesar.is and Felag islenskra Bifeidaeigenda Icelandic Automobile Association 562 9999 www.fib.is maintain bright-orange survival huts on high mountain passes and along remote coastlines. The huts are stocked with food, fuel and blan- Iceland uses the metric system - distances are in kilometres and weights are in kilograms. The electrical current is 240V AC 50Hz cycles North American electrical devices will require voltage...
Landmannalaugar To Eldgja
East of Landmannalaugar the F208 leaves Fjallabak Reserve and skirts the river Tungnaa as it flows past the NorSurnamshraun lava field. After dropping into Jokuldalur the road deteriorates into a valley route along a riverbed and effectively becomes a lOkm-long ford interspersed with jaunts across the odd sandbar or late snowfield. When it climbs out of the valley it ascends the tuff mountain Her8ubrei8, from where there are superb views across the lowlands to the south. Just west of the...
Hvannagil
This is perhaps the best of the day hikes, a well-marked four- or five-hour walk from Stafafell to Hvannagil, at the end of the road on the eastern bank of the Jokulsa i Loni. Head up this dramatic rhyolite valley and, after less than 1km, you'll see a sheep track climbing the ridge on your right. At the top of this ridge you'll have a view down Seldalur. Keep to the left side of this valley until you pass the side valley, Raftagil, which descends back to the Jokulsa i Loni. You can pick your...
Ondverdarnes
At the westernmost tip of Snaafellsnes, Rte 574 cuts south, while a tiny bumpy track heads west across an ancient lava flow to the tip of the OndverSarnes peninsula. En route you'll pass Skardsvik, a perfect golden sandy beach lapped by blue waters and hidden by black lava cliffs. A Viking grave was discovered here in the 1960s and it's easy to see why this stunning spot in the middle of an otherwise desolate area would have been favoured as a final resting place. From the parking area a marked...
around pingvellir Nesjavellir
Whenever you step into that pongy shower in Reykjavik, think of the weird shining Nesjavel-lirgeothermal plant, southwest of Pingvallavatn. It's here that boreholes plunge 2km into the earth, bringing up water heated to 380 C by toasting-hot bedrock. It drives a series of huge turbines that produce the city's electricity. Hot water is also channelled off to Reykjavik, 23km away. The whole system is explained at the visitor centre 480 2408 S 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun Jun-Aug , where you can...
Volunteering
A volunteering holiday is a good and relatively cheap way of getting intimately involved with Iceland's people and landscape. One of the most popular programmes is run in conjunction with Umhverfisstofnun UST, Environment amp Food Agency http engllsh.ust.is of-lnterest ConservationVolunteers , recruiting up to 100 volunteers each summer for work on practical conservation projects around the country. For an overview of other possibilities and projects, try Volunteer Abroad www.volunteerabroad...
Reykjanesfolkvangur
For a taste of Iceland's weird and empty countryside, you could visit this 300-sq-km wilderness reserve, a mere 40km from Reykjavik. Its three showpieces are Kleifarvatn, a deep grey lake with submerged hot springs and black-sand beaches the spitting, bubbling geother-mal zone at Seltun and the southwest's largest bird cliffs, the epic Krysuvikurberg. The reserve was established in 1975 to protect the elaborate lava formations created by the Reykjanes ridge volcanoes. The whole area is crossed...
around hvolsvollur Keldur
About 5km west of Hvolsv llur, unsurfaced Rte 264 winds north along the Rang rvellir valley to the medieval turf-roofed farm Hj 487 8452 at Keldur. This historic settlement once belonged to Ingjaldur Hoskuldsson, a character in Nj l's Saga. The interior was closed to visitors in 2000 after earthquake damage, but it's still worth visiting to see these Saga Age buildings. There's no public transport along Rte 264, but the 12km walk to Keldur is pleasant enough. About 2km before Keldur, good...
Kjolurvegur Trek
A good preparation for more challenging interior trekking routes is the easy and scenic Kjolurvegur trek from Hvitarvatn to Hveravellir. The trail follows the original horseback Kjolur Route west of the present road , via the Hvitarnes, Pverbrekknamuii and Pjofadaiir mountain huts. From the Hvitarvatn turn-off it's 8km along the 4WD track to Hvitarnes hut. From there you follow the Fulakvisl river 14km to bverbrekknamuli hut. Continue between the river and Kjalhraun lava field to bjofadalir hut...
Sights Activities Ehl
Housed in a cluster of ancient wooden buildings by the harbour, the Westfjords Folk Museum 456 3293 NeSstikaupsta5ur adult under 16yr senior Ikr500 free 300 S10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1 -5pmSat amp Sun Jun, 10am-5pm daily Jul amp Aug is an atmospheric place full of relics. The dimly lit main building, the Turnh s, dates from 1784 and was originally used as a warehouse. Inside it's like stepping back in time, with every available surface covered with fishing and nautical exhibits, tools and equipment...
Breidavik Biidavik
East of Hellnar and Arnarstapi, Rte 574 skirts the edges of the long sandy bays at BreiSavik and BuSavik. These windswept beaches are covered in yellow-grey sand and are wonderfully peaceful places to walk. At BuSavik the abandoned fishing village of BiiSir is now home to one of Iceland's best country hotels. From the hotel a walking trail leads across the elf-infested BuSahraun lava field to the crater Budaklettur. According to local legend a lava tube beneath BuSahraun, paved with gold and...
Sights 1
Just above the harbour, you'll find ViSey-arstofa, an 18th-century wooden church, and a small monument to Skuli Magnusson. Excavations of the old monastery foundations turned up some 15th-century wax tablets and a runic love letter, now in the National Museum less precious finds can be seen in the basement of ViSeyarstofa. Higher above the harbour is Art Installation - -Eifcsbjarg- - - To Reykjavik Sundahofn O Harbour 500m Area closed during bird Austurey nesting season lafur Eliasson's...
Skaftafellsheidi Loop
On a fine day, the five- to six-hour walk around SkaftafellsheiSi is a hiker's dream. It begins by climbing from the camp site past Svartifoss and Sjonarsker, continuing across the moor to 610m-high Fremrihnaukur. From there it follows the edge of the plateau to the next rise, NyrSrihnaukur 706m , which affords a superb view of Morsardalur, Morsarjokull and the iceberg-choked lagoon at its base. At this point the track turns southeast to an outlook point on the cliff above Skaftafell-sjokull...
Buildings Monuments
Tjornin Pond Map p72 is the placid lake at the centre of the city. It echoes with the honks, squawks and screeches of over 40 species of visiting birds, including swans, geese and artic terns feeding the ducks is a popular pastime for the under fives. Pretty sculpture-dotted parks line the southern shores, and their lacing paths are much used by cyclists and joggers. In winter, hardy souls strap on ice skates and turn the lake into an outdoor rink. For a self-guided art tour round Tjornin, buy...
Stykkisholmur 1
H tel Brei afj r ur Vin B If you're feeling peckish after a walk around the area you can detour to the farm Bjarnarhofn 4381581 to see the Icelandic delicacy hdkarl putrid shark meat being produced. The farm is at the end of a dirt track, signposted off Rte 54 - call ahead to make sure someone is in.
Sleeping Nmr
Camp site 4381750 sites per person Ikr600 Near the pool, the site has toilets and sinks. Sj narh ll HI Hostel 438 1417 www.hostel .Is H f agata 1 sb members nonmembers lkr1650 2000, d 5000 s May-Sep Set in one of the town's oldest buildings, this renovated hostel has clean, simple rooms and a decent kitchen. Dorms sleep two to four people, and there are also some private rooms. Heimagisting Maria Bseringsdottir 4381258 fax 438 1245 H f agata 11 s d lkr3800 6500 Set back from the waterfront in a...
Southwest Peninsula
The beautiful, sparsely populated trident-shaped peninsula in the southwest of the Westfjords is a spectacularly scenic place and the westernmost point in Europe. Sand beaches as fine as you'll find in Iceland, shimmering blue water, towering cliffs and stunning mountains weave along and between the fjords and provide fantastic territory for hiking, walking and leisurely driving. The region's most famous destination, however, is Latrabjarg, a 12km stretch of sea cliffs that is home to thousands...
Storagja Grjotagja
First up along this trail about 100m from the start is Storagja a rather eerie, watery fissure that was once a popular bathing spot. Cooling water temperatures currently about 28 C and the growth of potentially harmful algae mean it's no longer safe to swim in the cave, but it's an alluring spot with clear waters and a rock roof. Further on at Grjotagja there's another gaping fissure with a water-filled cave, this time at about 45 C - too hot to soak in. It's a beautiful spot, though,...
SLEEPING EATING Mvt
Hotel Hvita 486 8600 hotelhvlta simnet.ls sites per person Ikr500, sb from Ikr2000, s d tr Ikr8500 11,000 13,500 S May-Sep In a great location beside the suspension bridge in Laugaras, this hotel caters for different budgets, with a camping area, sleeping-bag bunk beds and simple parquet-floored guesthouse rooms. The new owners are currently building a wing of brand-new rooms. There's also a grill-style restaurant, with a splendid view over the Hvita river. You may be able to stay at the...
History 1
Geologically young, staunchly independent and frequently rocked by natural disaster, Iceland has a turbulent and absorbing history of Norse settlement, literary genius, bitter feuding and foreign oppression. Life in this harsh and unforgiving landscape was never going to be easy, but the challenges and hardships of everyday life cultivated a modern Icelandic spirit that's highly aware of its stormy past yet remarkably resilient, fiercely individualistic, quietly innovative and justifiably...