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iThe modern capital of Crete was badly damaged in World War II, and few of its old Venetian buildings survived the reconstruction of the city. However, its Venetian fortress, harbour, arsenal and city walls are still impressive. For a morning's itinerary see pages 82-3. The city's main attraction is the Irakleio Archaeological Museum see pp12-15 . According to ancient Greek myths, this mossy cavern, filled with strange limestone formations, was the birthplace of the greatest Olympian god, Zeus....
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Left Fresh fish Centre Taverna Auoas, Left Fresh fish Centre Taverna Auoas, Key part of a restored 19th-century stone village. The taverna serves a wide menu of Cretan specialities, baked in wood-burning ovens, and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner see p101 . A typical village taverna, set in the centre of tiny Douliana. Its rickety wooden tables and chairs are on a terrace shaded by vines, and the menu focuses on hearty local cooking, such as arni avgo-lemono lamb with lemon sauce . d...
Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge, which cuts its way through the Lefka Ori White Mountains from the Omalos Plateau to the Libyan Sea, is one of the most striking areas of natural beauty in Greece. Peaks soar on both sides of the gorge, flanked by pine woods and wildflower meadows. Beginning 1,250 m 4,100 ft above sea level, it emerges on the coast close to the little village of Agia Roumeli after passing through the narrow Sideresportes or Iron Gates. Though fit walkers can complete the 11-mile 17-km trek in...
Venetian and Turkish Castles
The massive fortress that dominates Rethymno's harbour was built by the Venetians with sloping walls to better deflect the Ottoman Empire's gigantic cannon. But it proved no match for the military ingenuity of the Turks, and fell after a short siege. Ironically, it became a far more successful stronghold for the Turkish Ottomans see also p22 . Frangokastello bust A formidable island fortress built in 1579 to command the entrance to the Gulf of Mirabello. Venice managed to hang on to it even...
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Left Sea urchins Centre Motorbikes and scooters Right Sun without shade Never underestimate the burning power of the Cretan sun, which can be punishing as early as April. Use a high-factor sunscreen or sunblock, especially on boat trips, when the sea breeze can make it seem deceptively cool, and take to the shade from midday until late afternoon. Heatstroke is another risk in high summer. Do not attempt strenuous hiking or mountain riding in July or August, drink plenty of water and wear a hat....
Famous Cretans
Paramount among the Greek gods, Zeus was said to have been born and raised in caves see p58 . His mother sheltered him from his child-devouring father, the Titan Kronos, whom Zeus eventually slew, giving rise to a new dynasty of gods. Minos, King of Crete and both patron and tormentor of the ingenious Daedalos, appears in the Greek myths as a tyrant. In fact, the legendary Minos is probably a composite of many Minoan kings, whose power and wealth were remembered long after their civilization...
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markets cont. Irakleio 13, 64, 82 Rethymno 65, 94 Marmara Marble beach 98 Matala 24, 44, 86 Melidoni cave 59 Memorial to Peace, Nida Plateau 29 Metohi Kindelis, Chania 131 meze dishes 73 mezedopoleion 120 Milatos 110 Milia Village 130 Minoan Empire 21, 32, 33 Minoan jewellery and helmets, Irakleio Archaeological Museum 15 Minoan villa site, Tylissos 87 Minoan villa site, Vathypetrou 87 Minos, Irakleio 89 Minos, King 8, 56, 58 Minos Beach Art 'Otel, Agios Nikolaos 126 Minos Palace, Agios...
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Coves and sandy beaches attract boats from Makrygialos, while the remains of a Roman amphitheatre attest to a time when the island grew rich from the trade of murex, a sea mollusc from which imperial purple dye was made. s gt Map Q6 Chrysi Golden , so named for its sandy beaches, is known locally as Gaidouronisi Donkey Island because of the Cretan habit of retiring elderly donkeys to uninhabited islands. Daily boat trips from lerapetra take 30-45 minutes in summer. s gt Map N6 LSJA group of...
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Left Dining in a traditional taverna Centre Greek coffee Right Octopuses hanging out to dry Tsikoudia or raki like Italian grappa is a colourless spirit distilled from the skins and stems left after grape pressing. You may see market traders starting the day with a shot of tsikoudia and a strong coffee. It is also drunk after meals. Retsina is a white wine flavoured with pine resin. The flavour was originally imparted by the pine storage barrels, but today the resin is added before bottling. It...
Bars and Cafs
The best place in town for a sundown cocktail. Tables with a view are at a premium, though, as this is currently Chania's trendiest bar. Sarpidona Oblomov attracts a youthful, mixed crowd of locals and visitors, and is less frenzied than many of Chania's harbourside caf -bars. Tucked away in a courtyard shaded by pines and tamarisks atop the ramparts on the east side of the Venetian harbour, Pill Tis Ammou is at its very best in the evening. Porta Sabiogera
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Karnagio serves substantial taverna meals, the traditional favourites including grilled meats and huge peasant salads with feta cheese. 8 Katehaki 28210 53366 Closed Nov-Mar Set in 13th-century vaults beneath the Veneto Hotel, the restaurant serves Cretan specialities within a beautiful setting, with stone-flagged floors, mosaics and antique furniture. 4 Epimenidou 28310 56634 Part of a restored 19th-century stone village, Sterna tou Bloumofisi serves Cretan specialities baked in wood-burning...
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Caf Antico, Rethymno 72 Caf du Lac, Agios Nikolaos 112 caf s, bars and ouzeries 120 Central Crete 88 Eastern Crete 112 Top Ten 72-3 camping 122 Candia Maris, Amudara 126 Irakleio 126 car hire 116, 123 Carpenter's workshop, Gournia 31 Casa Delfino, Chania 127 Casa Leone, Chania 127 Casa Veneta, Chania 128 castles 40-41 catamaran sailing 47 Cave of the Holy Fathers 59 caves 59, 104 Central Court, Ancient Central Crete 78-89 bars and caf s 88 beaches 86 map 78 restaurants 89 Central Palace Court,...
The Amari Valley and Mt Idi
The remote Amari Valley, overlooked by the summit of Mt idi, is one of the most scenic regions in Crete, dotted with tiny village churches - some of them more than 700 years old - and olive groves and vineyards. This upland region is surprisingly fertile, thanks to topsoil washed from the surrounding slopes, and in the Byzantine era was among the wealthiest regions in Crete. A heartland of the Cretan resistance struggle in World War II, many of its villages were destroyed by the Germans in...
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Left Milia Village Centre The Blue House Right Aphrodite, Sougia Set in the forested slopes of Crete's wild west',' Milia offers 13 rooms in village houses rebuilt between 1982 and 1993 in local stone and wood. The rooms are heated by wood-burning stoves, while water comes from mountain springs. d 73012 Milia, Vlatos No air conditioning A chance to live like Cretan villagers, helping with wine-making, olive picking, herding goats, basket weaving and baking. A co-operative venture, Parthenagogio...
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Left Traditional caf Centre Raki bottles Right Caf -bar,Agios Nikolaos The old-fashioned kafeneion is a hub of village and town life, where local men gather to play backgammon and talk politics. They usually serve only Greek coffee, frapp iced coffee , ouzo and raki, Greek brandy, bottled beer and a limited range of soft drinks. These are the Greek equivalent of the Spanish tapas bar, serving ouzo, wine, beer and a range of snacks meze to accompany your drink. In a mezedopoleion you can order a...
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Pagopoleion, lrakleio 72 painting 119 Palace, Gournia 31 Palace Workshops, Phaestos 21 Palazzo Rimondi, Rethymno 127 Paleochora 41, 45, 75, 92 Paleochora-Agia Roumeli boat trip 46 Pallas Caf , Chania 72 Panormos 86 Paradise Creta Panorama, Rethymno 129 Paradiso, Agia Galini 88 Paragadi, Siteia 113 passports 117 pastry shops 120 Pefki Gorge 111 Pelekita cave, Kato Zakros 111 Peristyle Hall, Phaestos 21 Phaestos 6, 20-21, 34, 79 Phaestos Disc, Irakleio Archaeological Museum 14 pharmacies 125...