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ithaki IAKH

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Diminutive Ithaki is the diamond of the Io-nians. It is believed to be the mythical home of Homer's Odysseus, where his loyal wife Penelope patiently awaited his homecoming. This tranquil island is two large peninsulas -joined by a narrow isthmus - with sheer cliffs, precipitous mountainous passages and pockets of cypresses and olive groves. Nestled around this compact gem are beautiful fishing hamlets (tastefully rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake) and discreet pebbly coves. Monasteries and churches offer Byzantine delights and splendid views. The locals here are rightfully proud of their island.

Getting There & Away

Strintzis Lines (www.ferries.gr/strintzis-ferries) has two ferries daily connecting Vathy or Piso Aetos with Patra (per person/car €14.50/55, four hours), via Sami on Kefallonia (per person €5.10 to/from Vathy, one hour, or to/from Piso Aetos €2.20, 30 minutes).

Ionian Pelagosruns a daily ferry (sometimes twice a day) in high season between Piso Aetos, Sami and Astakos on the mainland (per person/car €8/33, 2'/i hours direct from Piso Aetos to Astakos, three hours from Astakos to Piso Aetos via Sami).

Other ferries run to ever-changing schedules from Vasiliki and Nydri (Lefkada) to Frikes (Ithaki) and Fiskardo (Kefallonia). The Frikes-Fiskardo trip takes just under an hour (per person/car €3.40/14) and Nydri-Frikes takes lYi hours (€5.30/26.50). Frikes-Vasiliki goes via Fiskardo and takes two hours.

Information and tickets for these routes can be obtained from Delas Tours (right) on the main square in Vathy.

Getting Around

Piso Aetos, on Ithaki's west coast, has no settlement; taxis often meet boats, as does the municipal bus in high season only. The island's one bus runs twice daily (weekdays only, more often in high season) between Kioni and Vathy via Stavros and Frikes (€3.50), and its limited schedule is not well suited to day-trippers. Taxis are relatively expensive (about €25 for the Vathy-Frikes trip), so your best bet is to hire a moped or car (or a motorboat) to get around. In Vathy, Rent a Scooter (@ 26740 32840) is down the lane-way opposite the port authority. For cars, try Happy Cars - contact Polyctor Tours (right) or Alpha Bike & Car Hire (É 26740 33243) behind Alpha Bank.