Back To Mastic
One day, 32-year-old Vasilis Ballas and longtime girlfriend Roula had had enough they decided, as one does, to quit their well-paying jobs in hectic Athens' IT sector and move to a small village in southern Chios, to cultivate mastic trees. 'Our friends thought we were crazy,' chuckles Vasilis, whose ancestors came from Mesta, the enchanting fortress town at the heart of Chios' Mastihohoria. 'But now many of them are saying, I wish I was brave enough to do what you did Cultivating the trees was...
FERRY Oiy
Astypalea has up to five services a week in summer to Piraeus 33.50, 10 to 12 hours via Naxos 23, 3 hours and Paros 28.50, 4 hours , and two a week to Rhodes 28, seven to nine hours via Kalymnos and Kos. The Kalymnos-based ferry F B Nissos Kalymnos calls in three times weekly, linking the island with Kalymnos and islands further north in the Dodecanese. Ferry tickets are available from Paradisos Ferries Agency S 22430 61224 fax 22430 61450 or from Astypalea Tours 22430 61571 , both in Skala....
Spili Xiihai
Spili spee-lee , 30km southeast of Rethymno is a pretty mountain village with cobbled streets, rustic houses and plane trees. Its centrepiece is a unique Venetian fountain, which spurts water from 19 lion heads, though its recent refurbishment was ill-advised. Bring along your own containers and fill up with the best water on the island. Tourist buses regularly stop in the town during the day, but in the evening Spili belongs to the locals. It is a good spot for lunch and a great base for...
Painting
The lack of any comprehensive archaeological record of ancient Greek painting has left art historians to largely rely on the painted decoration of terracotta pots as evidence of the development of this art. There are a few exceptions, such as the famous frescoes unearthed on Santorini and which are now housed in the National Archaeological Museum pi20 in Athens. These works were painted in fresco technique using yellow, blue, red and black pigments, with some details added after the plaster had...
ithaki IAKH
Diminutive Ithaki is the diamond of the Io-nians. It is believed to be the mythical home of Homer's Odysseus, where his loyal wife Penelope patiently awaited his homecoming. This tranquil island is two large peninsulas -joined by a narrow isthmus - with sheer cliffs, precipitous mountainous passages and pockets of cypresses and olive groves. Nestled around this compact gem are beautiful fishing hamlets tastefully rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake and discreet pebbly coves. Monasteries and...
MIDRANGE Ceu
HIU'IIW Portes g 28210 76261 Portou 48 mains 6-8.50 Affable Susanna from Limerick cooks up Cretan treats with a difference at this superb restaurant in a quiet street in the Old Town. Try her divine gavros marinated anchovies or stuffed fish baked in paper or the tasty meatballs with leek and tomato. To Karnagio 2821053366 Plateia Katehaki 8 Cretan specials 5-10.50 is a popular place with outdoor tables near the Great Arsenal. There is a good range of seafood try the grilled cuttlefish and...
BUS Tus
The main KTELAchaia bus station 2610623 886 Othonos Amalias has buses to Athens 16.20, three hours, every half-hour via Corinth 10.80,1 Yi hours Pyrgos 8.40, two hours, 10 daily Ioannina 19.70,4' i hours, at least two daily Kalavryta 6.80, two hours, at least two daily Kalamata 19.30, four hours, two daily Tripoli 16, hours, daily and Thessaloniki 37.90, seven hours, four daily . Buses to the Ionian Islands of Lefkada 13.80, two weekly, three hours and Kefal-lonia leave from the KTEL Kefallonia...
Hidden Beaches Of Eastern Samos
Despite being only a few kilometres from Samos' capital, the jagged eastern coast is rarely visited by tourists, making it perfect for adventurous, off-roading swimmers and sun worshippers.Thesul-try beaches here are frequented only by locals and the tiny coves along the coast by very few. A regular car or motorcycle will suffice for most of this route, though the complete day-tour requires a 4WD. Set your odometer at Vathy Samos port and drive northwards, passing the Pythagoras Hotel on your...
Around Agathonisi
Megalo Horio is the only village of any size on the island. Somnolent and unhurried for most of the time, it comes to life yearly with religious festivals Agiou Panteleimonos 26 July , Sotiros 6 August and Panagias 22 August , when, after church services, the village celebrates with abundant food, music and dancing. There are a series of accessible beaches to the east of Megalo Horio pebbled Tsangari Beach, pebbled Tholos Beach, sandy Poros Beach and pebbled Tholos Agios Nikolaos Beach, close...
Air
Aegean Airlines www.aegeanair.com City 2810 344 324 fax 2810 344 330 Leoforos Dimokratlas 11 Airport office 2810 330 475 Olympic Airlines www.olympicairlines.com City 2810 244 824 25 Avgoustou 27 S 8am-3pm Mon-Fri Airport office 2810 337 203, 2810 397 129 Olympic and Aegean each have at least five flights daily to Athens from 75 from Iraklio's Nikos Kazantzakis airport, as well as daily flights to Thessaloniki from 106 . Olympic also flies to Rhodes from 89 . Both airlines have regular special...
nisyros neypos
There are not many islands in the Aegean that sport their own dormant volcano. Nisy-ros i-see-ross has one, though it's less active now than it was in its eruptive past. This almost round island of pumice, rock and lush vegetation is a bit of an anomaly because of its inherited geology. Other than that it's a thoroughly pleasant destination for individuals who want a quiet vacation on an island that still looks and feels totally Greek. The beaches are not so hot - that's a fact -but you can...
Pigadia Imtaaia
After being spoilt with the picturesque harbours of Symi, Chalki and Kastellorizo, Pigadia pi-gha-dhi-ya , Karpathos' capital and main port, does not immediately grab your attention. It's a modern town and is attractive enough in its own way, but without any eminent buildings or sites. Much of the cement-based architecture was erected during a boom in the 1960s and '70s. Upon further investigation, however, Pigadia is a pleasant and busy town. It is built on the edge of Vrondi Bay, a 4km-long...
BUS Iwb
The KTEL Arkadia busstation 2710 222 560 Plateia Kolokotroni is the main bus terminal, 1km from the city centre. There are 13 buses daily to Athens 12.80, 2 4 hours via Corinth Isthmus 7, one hour . There are also two buses daily west to Olympia 10.60, three hours and Pyrgos 12.20, 3hours , and four east to Argos 5, one hour and Nafplio 5, 1 hours . Regional services include buses to Megalopoli 2.90, 40 minutes, 10 daily and Stemnitsa 3.60, one hour, once daily Monday to Friday . There are also...
Sights Activities Dms
Many of Kastoria's Byzantine churches were originally chapels attached to arhontika. Most are locked find a caretaker to enter. External frescoes are visible, however, at some churches, such as Taxiarhia of the Metropolis Plateia Pavlou Mela , south of Plateia Omonias, with its 13th-century fresco of the Madonna and Child above the entrance. It also contains the sacrosanct tomb of Pavlos Melas, the main Greek military leader associated with the 1904-08 'Macedonian Struggle' Makedo-nomahos . The...
TRAIN Gei
Trains are operated by Greek Railways Organisation Organismos Sidirodromon Ellados www.ose.gr , always referred to as the OSE. You'll find information on fares and schedules on the website. Information on domestic departures from Athens or Thessaloniki can be sought by calling 1440. The biggest problem with the Greek railway network is that it is so limited. There are essentially only two main lines the standard gauge service from Athens to Alexandroupoli via Thessaloniki, and the Peloponnese...
Arahova Apaxba
Arahova ah-ra-ho-vah is built on a rocky spur of Mt Parnassos at an altitude of 960m. Arahova is primarily a winter resort for skiers, and for Greeks it is very much the place to be during the skiing season. Prices in winter reflect this trend and some restaurants close in summer. It's only 12km from Delphi, and a good alternative base from which to visit Ancient Delphi. The main street of Arahova is flanked by shops selling embroidery, hand-woven goods, flokati rugs and various other...
Ancient Zakros Apxaia Zakpoi
The smallest of Crete's four palatial complexes, the Palace of Zakros 28430 26897 Kato Zakros admission 3 S 8am-7.30pm Jul-0ct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Jun was a major port in Minoan times, maintaining trade links with Egypt, Syria, Anatolia and Cyprus. The palace comprised royal apartments, storerooms and workshops flanking a central courtyard. The town occupied a low plain close to the shore. Water levels have risen over the years so that some parts of the palace complex are submerged and are occupied...
Eating Drinking Ocf
Dining in Thasos Limenas has become both more bland and more expensive, as beachfront restaurants bank on location to save them from innovation. The drinking scene is more sedate than at the coastal beach resorts, though satisfactory watering holes do exist. I Pig i Grill Room 25930 22941 Central Square mains 5-7.50 S dinner This friendly, central restaurant next to a spring can seem to blend in with other nearby eateries, but is a cut above when it comes to Greek meats seafood mezedhes and...
Moni Kaisarianis
Nestled on the slopes of Mt Hymmetos, 5km from the city, the 1 lth-century monastery of Kaisariani Map p155 210 723 6619 Mt Hymettos admission 2 S buildings 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun, grounds 8.30am-sunset is a peaceful sanctuary. Built on the foundations of an ancient temple, the dome of the church is supported by four columns from the ancient temple. The walled complex has a central court surrounded by the kitchen and dining rooms, the monks' cells and the bathhouse. The domed katholikon main...
Eating Drinking Pia
Fish tavernas are best Leoforos Dimokratias has bars, while caf s lines the waterfront. Bougatsa Gala 25510 32386 Emboriou bougatsa 2 A friendly breakfast nook of long standing, this nameless hole-in-the-wall place serves up flaky cream pies bougatsa as delicious as its d cor is humble. Nea Klimataria 2551026288 Plateia Polytehniou mains 5-8 This heavy-duty, popular place on the square is not setting records, but it does have tasty prepared dishes, good roast chicken and big salads. HIUM...
Hiking The Zagorohoria The Grand Tour
To see the Zagorohoria at its most spectacular, get off the roads and into nature. You don't necessarily need a guide, but get an update on conditions from the EOT p327 or EOS p329 in loannina first. And definitely get the map, Anavasi Mountain Edition's Pindus-Zagori 1 50,000 8 , available in loannina, Monodendri, Papingo and in some guesthouses in other villages too, or on the Anavasi website www.mountains.gr . Armed with this information and tough hiking boots, a compass, sunscreen, sticks...
Nikolopoulos Andritsena Library
You don't need to be a reader to appreciate this stunning legacy of Nikolopoulos at this library 26260 22242 admission free S 8am-3pm Tue-Sat . In 1838 he donated 4000 rare books -then one of Europe's largest private collections, including a book from 1502 and a 1657 Bible with rare binding - to his father's home town to establish a school. The nearby village of Stemnitsa donated another 4000 books and today the collection is on display, along with manuscripts from Greece's 1821 Independence...
Eating Drinking Wdr
There's good eating in Chios Town, especially near the waterfront nightlife, too, primarily happens here, in a contiguous set of bars filled by the unworried heirs of shipping empires. Ouzeri Tzivaeri 22710 43559 Neoreion 13 mains 3-6 The sort of food strong enough to soak up ouzo the Tzivaeri serves 10 kinds is dished out at this friendly portside eatery. You might need a cast-iron gut to lay into oil-drenched,sun-dried tomatoes, grilled cod strips and traditional Chios sausages - but then...
WEST COAST Jgu
Escapist Sithonia has better beaches, more spectacular nature and a more relaxed feel than Kassandra. The southern end and eastern coastline have beautiful beaches outside high summer, they're yours. The coast road loops around Sithonia, skirting wide bays, climbing into pine-forested hills and dipping down to the resorts. The west coast has good stretches of sandy beaches between Nikiti and Paradisos, notably Kalogria Beach and Lagomandra Beach. Beyond, NeosMarmaras is Sithonia's largest...
Sanctuary
The ruins of the sanctuary are less crowded than the theatre. In the south is the huge kata-gogeion, a hostelry for pilgrims and patients. To the west is the large banquet hall in which the Romans built an odeum. It was here that the Festival of Asclepieia took place. Opposite is the stadium, venue for the festival's athletic competitions. To the north are the foundations of the Temple of Asclepius and next to them is the abaton. The therapies practised here seemed to have depended on the...
Sleeping Quk
The growing popularity of the Zagorohoria among Greek and foreign tourists has created an arms race of new guesthouses. While prices are high, many Zagori guesthouses are unforgettable and the location is, as they say, priceless. ArchontikoZarkada 26530 71305 www.monoden dri.com Monodendri s d 25 35 These clean, snug rooms have balconies with gorge views. Some rooms have spa baths for nursing bruised hikers back to health. Xenos Vikos 26530 71370 Monodendri d 45-60 S Mar-Dec Located only 400m...
Sleeping Ntv
You can expect the higher July and August rates quoted here to drop by about 25 at other times. Pension Katerina 24260 31159,6945762183 s d f from 25 30 45 S A narrow lane off the waterfront leads to this welcoming gem. Rooms are light, tidy and charming. Families will like the three apartments that have kitchenettes. Hotel Kentrikon 24260 31232 www.bungalows -kentrlkons.gr s d 50 60 BEOS This place goes back to 1937, when it was the village's first tourist hotel, a modest six-room affair....
I Nfw
beach and some good spots for snorkelling. Just before the camping ground, on the opposite side, a signposted path leads up to the ruined fortress of Paleokastro. Xirokambos is home to Leros' only camping ground. Camping Leros 22470 23372 camp sites adult tent 6.50 4 has tent sites that are interwoven into a shady olive grove. Look for it on the right 3km from Lakki. There is a small restaurant and bar on site, and you'll also find Panos Diving Club 22470 23372 www.lerosdiving .com D here,...
Around Zakynthos
Whether you're a culture vulture or sun-seeker, the best way to see the island is to hire a car and go exploring. Loggerhead turtles see boxed text, opposite come ashore to lay their eggs on the golden-sand beaches of the huge Bay of Laganas, a National Marine Park on Zakynthos' south coast, whereas party animals frequent Laganas, the highly developed, somewhat tacky resort. Keri Beach at Limni Keriou not to be confused with Keri village further south is a more attractive option, but the beach...
South Of Mytilini
Although it gets relatively few tourists, the small, olive-groved peninsula south of My tilini has several unique attractions. A long pebble beach 7km south on the coastal road opposite the airport hosts a decadent beach bar, Kohilia 6978773203 S8am-3am . Pulsating with house and techno music, and frequented by swimsuited students lounging on colourful couches and four-poster beds, Kohilia is a chilled-out hang-out on summer days by night, however, it attracts several hundred young pleasure...
Ikapia Ypni
It will be a long time before Ikaria is paved over and packaged, and the locals seem to like it that way. Yet with therapeutic hot springs as radioactive as the communist sympathisers once exiled here, this laid-back island of stark ravines, windswept desert trees and shimmering waters lapping on white-pebbled beaches is starting to be discovered. Not to worry most of the roads are still made of dirt, the bus service is almost nonexistent and no one wakes before noon. Ikaria...
Agia Kyriaki Aha Kypiakh
This is the last stop on the Pelion Peninsula, a winding 5km drive down the hill from Trikeri, or a quick 1km walk down a cobblestone path. This fishing village sees few tourists, and the bright, orange-coloured boats are put to good use by a hard-working population of around 200. There is one domatia and a couple of fish tavernas next door, facing the opposite shores of Evia. PALIO TRIKERI I1AAI0 TPIKEPI If you really must go that one step further to get away from it all, then head for this...
Pothia Iioia
Pothia poth-ya , the port and capital of Kalymnos, is a fairly large town by Dodecanese standards. It is built amphitheatrically around the slopes of the surrounding valley, and its visually arresting melange of colourful mansions and houses draped over the hills makes for a particularly photogenic sight when you first arrive. However, Pothia is a brash and overly busy town and its nightly parade of preening motorcyclists can make for some nerve-rattling noise pollution, while dining out or...
Corfu Kepkypa
Corfu - or Kerkyra ker-kih-rah in Greek - is the second-largest and the greenest Ionian island. It is also the best known. It was Homer's 'beautiful and rich land', and Odysseus' last stop on his journey home to Ithaki. Shakespeare reputedly used it as a background for The Tempest. In the 20th century, writers the Durrell brothers - among others - extolled its virtues. With the nation's highest rainfall, scores of vegetables and herbs thrive here, especially in spring. With its beguiling...
Rock Climbing
Meteora has been a mecca for European rock climbers for several years. Climbers of various skill levels can choose routes from over 100 peaks and towers with names like the Tower of the Holy Ghost, the Corner of Madness and the Iron Edge. There are about 700 routes in all, covering 120 sandstone towers of the Meteora. The style is clean or traditional face climbing, and rates a '5' on the UIAA international scale. Best times weather-wise are roughly mid-March to mid-June and mid-August to...
EATING Ifj
There's no shortage of eating options in and around Kardamyli. Kafe Plateia 27210 72642 An authentic kafeneio coffee house . Vangelis, the owner, serves great Greek coffee. Handily located opposite the bus stop. Taverna Dioskouri 27210 73236 mains 4.50-8 A safe, nothing-over-the top option, except for the view, that is it overlooks the sea from the hillside just south of town. Ta Kumaristria 27210 73250 This place is known for its live music 8pm to 11pm , along with the hospitable host who...
Maps 1
Unless you are going to hike or drive, the free maps given out by the EOT will probably suffice, although they are not 100 accurate. On islands where there is no EOT office, there are usually tourist maps for sale for around 1.50 but, again, these are not very accurate. The best overall maps for coverage are published by the Greek company Road Editions 210 345 5575 www.road.gr Kozanls 21 amp Amfipoleos, Votanikos, Athens , whose maps are produced with the assistance of the Hellenic Army...
Skyros Carnival
In this wild pre-Lenten festival, which takes place on the last four weekends before Kathara Deftera Clean Monday - the first Monday in Lent, 40 days before Easter , young men don goat masks, hairy jackets and dozens of copper goat bells. They then proceed to clank and dance around town, each with a partner another man , dressed up as a Skyrian bride but also wearing a goat mask. During these revelries there is singing and dancing, performances of plays, recitations of satirical poems and much...
Lihnos Parga Greece
To Waltos Beach 1km Waltos Camping 1km Willa Avgi 4km X J To Utopia Studios 300m Golfo Beach 450m Enjoy Lihnos Camping 4km Lihnos 4km -y. - Bella Wista.Studios amp Apartments 4km Nekromanteio of Afyra 21km Preveza. 67km Agricultural Bank 1 B2 Citibank Commercial Bank of Greece. 3 B2 International Travel Services 4 C1 Medical National Bank of Greece 6 B2 Post Office 10 B1 sleeping San Nectarios Hotel 13 C2 eating q Excursion Boats to Pax 23 C3 located near the bus stop. Simple domatia are on...
Around Parga
Nekromanteio of Afyra XcKpouavicio TtiQ Aipitpai The ancients feared it as the gate of Hades, god of the underworld for visitors today the Nekromanteio of Afyra 26840 41206 adult 2 S 8.30am-3pm is just the labyrinthine ruin at the end of a beautiful boat ride down the coast and up the Aherondas River. To ancient Greeks, the Nekromanteio was an oracle pilgrims made offerings of milk, honey and the blood of sacrificed animals in order to communicate with the spirits of the dead. The remnants of...
pop Syu
An island that forgot it was attached to the mainland, Parga is the only true resort of the Epiros Riviera, and one that has something for everyone. Set inside a curving bay crowned by a Venetian castle and flanked by golden beaches, Parga is an aesthetic pleasure, with its exquisite aquamarine waters balanced by lush green olive-clad hills, little islets and white-plastered houses stacked on winding, flowery streets above a colourful waterfront whose caf s and bars come roaring to life in...
AROUND NAXOS Beaches
Conveniendy located just south of the town's waterfront is Agios Georgios, Naxos' town beach. It's backed by hotels and tavernas at the town end and can get very crowded, but it runs for some way to the south and its shallow waters mean the beach is safe for youngsters. The next beach south of Agios Georgios is Agios Prokopios, in a sheltered bay to the south of the headland of Cape Mougkri. It merges with Agia Anna, a stretch of shining white sand, quite narrow but long enough to feel...
Lipsi Village
Hugging the deep harbour, Lipsi village is a cosy community of white-painted and blue-shuttered homes that have an immediately good feel to them. All boats dock at Lipsi Port, where there are two quays. The ferries, hydrofoil and catamarans all dock at the larger, outer jetty, while excursion boats dock at a smaller jetty nearer the centre of Lipsi village. The Anna Express docks close to the large main church in the inner port. It's a 500m walk from the outer jetty to the church. The post...
Moni Dafniou Mov Aacpviou
The 11th-century Dafni monastery 21058 11558 Leoforos Athinon , 10km northwest of Athens along the busy road to Corinth, is Attica's most important Byzantine monument, and is on Unesco's World Heritage list. The monastery was badly damaged by the 1999 earthquake and it was still unclear at the time of research when it would reopen. The monastery stands on the site of an ancient Sanctuary of Apollo along the route of the Sacred Way that ran from ancient Eleusis to the Acropolis. The temple was...
Sissami Sealand Pigadia
able and, most importantiy for a longer stay, have room to breathe. There are plenty of choices when it comes to eating. The waterfront establishments tend to be hit and miss when it comes to quality, though there are some exceptions. Maka-rounes home-made pasta cooked with cheese and onions is the local speciality. I Zoi ton Angel n s 22450 22984 Apodimon Kar-pathion mains 5-7.50 Overlooking the harbour and set around a balcony running along the building, this quirky littie eatery does some...
Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio
rspoA.i i va lt jcpoq II6pT0 Kayio South of Gerolimenas, the road continues 4km to the small village of Alika, where it divides. One road leads across the mountains to the east coast, and the other goes south to Vathia and Porto Kagio. The southern road follows the coast, passing pebbly beaches. It then climbs steeply inland to Vathia, the most dramatic of the traditional Mani villages, comprising a cluster of closely packed tower houses perched on a rocky spur. It's well worth stopping to...
INFORMATION Haw
Municipal Tourist Office. National Bank of Greece. B3 Hotel Orestion 18 A2 Katerina Suites 19 B3 Emmanouil Mansion Kastorian Museum of Papaterpou Mansion Papia Mansion
BUS Rli
There's a twice-weekly direct bus service between Athens and Paxi 45, plus 6.80 for ferry ticket between Paxi and Igoumenitsa, seven hours . On Paxi, tickets are available from Bouas Tours above . The bus leaves from Plateia Karaiskaki in Athens note the terminal changes, so always check with Bouas beforehand . Two car ferries operate daily services between Paxi, Igoumenitsa on the mainland, and Corfu. The Paxi-Igoumenitsa per person car 7 40 trip takes Wi to two hours. Most island travel...
Sleeping Eating Xvl
Arhontiko Dhrakopoulou 24260 23566 fax 24260 23460 Zagora r ind breakfast 60 Don't expect to find room numbers at this refurbished Pelion mansion on the main plateia of Zagora. Instead, the name of a local flower designates each of the five simply furnished rooms. The pension is managed by the local Women's Association, whose favourite flowers would seem to include gardenias, hydrangeas and roses. Take your pick. Arhontiko Stamou s 24260 23880 d ste ind breakfast from 70 100 manages to combine...
Eating Drinking Fyg
HIU'IIW Ouzeri To 11 22540 22635 Plateia KTEL seafood mezedhes 4.50-6 This unassuming littie ouzerie by the bus depot is actually Myrina's seafood emporium. From mussels with garlic and venus clams kydonia to limpets, sea urchins, crayfish and more, 'To En-dheka' as it's pronounced serves all the strange stuff, along with plenty of ouzo to make you forget what you're eating. 0 Platanos Taverna 22540 22070 mains from 5 Mayirefta with an emphasis on meats are the order of business at this local...