Lali Jalaghania S Guesthouse

The selection of hotels is poor, but a slew of homestays fills the gap.

Gvetadze Homestay ("S 43007; Tbilisi 3rd Lane No 6; per person 10 GEL) Suliko and Mediko Gvetadze provide a friendly welcome at their house, 700m east of Davit Aghmasheneblis moedani, in the third lane off Tbilisi. Meals are available at a modest extra charge, and the wine flows freely! But the bathroom needs an overhaul and water is sometimes in short supply. The house is in the side street opposite Tbilisi 100.

Giorgi's Homestay (@ 43720,895591511; giorgihome stay@mail.ru, giorglhomestay14(3yahoo.com; Chanchlbadze 14; per person 15 GEL, half board 30 GEL; 0) Hospitable, English-speaking Giorgi Giorgadze and his family provide clean, plain rooms in their ample house on Ukimerioni Hill, a short walk from the Bagrati Cathedral. They'll make you feel at home, and Giorgi is full of helpful travel and sightseeing tips. The shared bathrooms are sparkling clean and have hot water. The food is very good.

Beka Hotel (@ 46923; Debi Ishkhnelebi 26; half board per person 40 GEL) An impressive white mansion on Ukimerioni Hill with superb views from the large terrace, the Beka is more guesthouse than hotel. Run by a friendly Russian- and Georgian-speaking couple, it has eight excellent, spick-and-span rooms with comfy beds.

Lali Jalaghania's Guesthouse (@ 48395,899376525; Debi Ishkhnelebi 18; half board per person 40 GEL) A couple of doors from the Beka, the Jalaghania house has similarly spacious and comfortable accommodation. Neighbour Marina speaks some English.

Zelimkhan Guesthouse (ยงยง 22441; Vakhushti Bagrationi 67; per person incl breakfast 55 GEL) A 15-minute walk from the Kutaisi-1 station, this tall, three-storey, vaguely Art Deco house has bright rooms and good breakfasts. It's pricier than other options but still highly recommended.

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