Juodkrante

Juodkrante has a few rather strange attractions and is a popular place to engage in one of Neringa's trademark activities: buying and tasting freshly caught and smoked fish, which is sold from several wooden houses along the main road, Rezos gatve.

Top of the strange sights list is the Ragani) Kalnas (Witches' Hill), a spooky sculpture trail through gorgeous forest with large, fairytale Lithuanian wooden carvings.

Less than 1km south of Juodkrante is one of Neringa's must-see attractions: a massive colony of grey herons and cormorants. Wooden steps lead from the road to a viewing platform where the panorama of thousands of nests amid pine trees - cormorants to the north, herons to the south - is breathtaking. In March and April the air is thick with birds carrying huge sticks to build their nests; in May the cacophony rises to a deafening crescendo as the chicks are born.

In Juodkrante stay at the marvellously rustic Vila Flora (§ 53024; www.vilaflora.lt; Kalno gatve 7a; s/d/tr220/250/300 Lt; meals 30 Lt; ® (S)), which also serves up some of the best food on the spit.

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