Sougia Xoytia
Sougia is one of the most laid back and refreshingly undeveloped beach resorts along the south coast, with a lovely wide curve of sand-and-pebble beach and a few tavernas and rooms along a shady tree-lined coastal road. It was once a popular remote hippy hangout and many nostalgic ex-hippies return religiously each year. It retains its chill-out atmosphere and there is little to do other than relax and recharge depleted batteries for a few days. Sougia's tranquillity has been preserved largely...
Tickets
Ferries can be prone to delays and cancellations in bad weather, so it's best not to buy a ticket until it has been confirmed that the ferry is operating unless you want a cabin or it's the August peak season . If you need It wasn't too long ago that ferry travel in Greece was a true ordeal. Deregulation of the formerly closed domestic ferry market, a gradual upgrade of fleets and the aftershock of the F B Express Samina sinking in September 2000 have significantly improved the domestic and...
Spili Iihai
Spili spee-lee is a pretty mountain village with cobbled streets, rustic houses and plane trees. Its centrepiece is the unique Venetian fountain in the square that spurts water from 19 lion heads, though its recent refurbishment was ill-advised. Bring along your own water containers and fill up with the best water on the island. Spili is no longer an undiscovered hideaway. Tourist buses on their way to the southern coast regularly stop in the town during the day, but in the evening Spili...
Sleeping Eating Lxf
Rooms Panorama 28220 61548 s d studio 20 25 This place has a taverna overlooking the sea from its commanding position on a bluff. Rooms have a kitchenette and fridge, but many are rented by the month to itinerant workers. Rooms Elafonisi 28250 61274,fax28250 97907 s d 30 35 SI The 21 spacious rooms here have fridges, and there are nicely furnished bigger rooms out the back among the olive groves, as well as apartments with kitchens. The outdoor patio has views and there's an attached...
Hiking Climbing Biking
Trekking Plan 28210 60861 www.tyding.gr Agia Marina In Agia Marina, 8km southwest of the old town, Trekking Plan offers hikes to the Agia Irini and Imbros gorges, and climbs of Mt Gingilos, as well as canyoning, rappelling, rock-climbing and kayaking and mountain-bike tours. Alpine Travel 28210 50939 6932 252 890 www .alpine.gr Boniali 11-19 Organises a range of eco-tourism, mountaineering and hiking programmes. EOS SS 28210 44647 www.eosha n ion .g r Tza n aka ki 90 S 8.30am-10pm The Hania...
MarchApril
Easter The most important religious holiday in Greece is Easter which most years fall at a different time to non-Orthodox Easter because the date is calculated using a different formula and calendar . On Palm Sunday the Sunday before Easter , worshippers return from church services with a cross woven of palm and myrtle. If you are in Crete at Easter you should endeavourto attend some of the Easterservices, which include a candle-lit procession through the streets on Good Friday evening and...
Moni Toplou Monh Toiiaoy
East of Sitia, the imposing Moni Toplou 28430 61226 admission 2.50 S 9am-6pm Apr-Oct looks more like a fortress than a monastery - a necessity imposed by the dangers it faced at the time of its construction. It is one of the most historically significant and progressive monasteries on Crete. The middle of the 15th century was marked by piracy, banditry and constant rebellions. The monks defended themselves with all the means at their disposal, including a heavy gate, cannons the name Toplou is...
Imbros Gorge Oa Pa It Imipoy
The Imbros Gorge admission 2 year-round , 57km southeast of Hania, is less hiked than its illustrious sister at Samaria but is just as beautiful. Cypresses, holm oaks, fig and almond trees gradually thin to just cypresses and Jerusalem sage deep within the gorge. The walls of rock reach 300m high, while the narrowest point of the ravine is only 2m wide. At only 8km the Imbros walk is also much easier on the feet. Most people begin the walk in the mountain village of Imbros but you can also do...
Private Transport
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Sitia Xhteia
Sitia si- ee-a is an attractive mid-sized coastal town with a pretty harbour-side promenade lined with tavernas and caf s that makes for a pleasant evening stroll. It has fortunately managed to escape the tourist frenzy that grips most of the north coast in summer. While the town is traveller-friendly, it exists for the locals, who rely on agriculture and commerce rather than tourism. In the bustling streets of the old town that wind their way uphill from the harbour, you'll find the occasional...
ARGYROUPOLIS APrYPOYIIOAH
When the summer heat becomes too intense for the beach, you'll find a natural, outdoor air-con-ditioning system at Argyroupolis, 25km southwest of Rethymno. At the bottom of this village is a watery oasis formed by mountain springs that keeps the temperature markedly cooler than on the coast. Running through aqueducts, washing down walls, seeping from stones and pouring from spigots, the gushing spring water supplies the entire city of Rethymno. Towering chestnut and plane trees and luxuriant...
Moni Arkadiou Monh Apkaaioy
This historic 16th-century monastery Arkadi Monastery 28310 83136 admission 2 S9am-7pm Apr-Oct stands in attractive hill country 23km southeast of Rethymno. The exterior is coldly impressive but the Venetian church inside dates from 1587 and has a richly decorated Renaissance fa ade with eight slender Corinthian columns topped by an ornate triple-belled tower it used to feature on the old 100 drachma note . In November 1866 the Turks sent massive forces to quell insurrections gathering momentum...
MARGARITES MAPrAPITEI
Known for its fine pottery, this tiny town is invaded by tour buses in the morning but by the afternoon all is calm. Then you can enjoy wonderful views over the valley from the taverna terraces on the main square, dominated by giant eucalyptus trees. The town has only one road, which runs through town to the town square, where the bus stops. There is no bank, post office or travel agency, but you'll find more than 20 ceramic studios on and around the main street. The pottery is of mixed quality...
Xerokambos Hepokamiiox
Xerokambos kse-ro-kam-bos is a quiet and spread-out agricultural setdement on the far southeastern flank of Crete. Its isolation means that tourism is pretty much low key and most certainly of the unpackaged kind. Its appeal lies in that very isolation. There are a couple of splendid beaches, a few scattered tavernas and studio accommodation. Ambelos Beach, north of the rocky headland that splits Xerokambos in two, is a small, intimate beach and enjoys some shade. Mazidas Beach, on the south,...
Rethymno Peymno
Rethymno reth-im-no is the island's third-largest town and one of the most picturesque, with a charming Venetian harbour and delightful old Venetian-Ottoman quarter. The old quarter is a maze of narrow streets draped in floral canopies, graceful wood-balconied houses and ornate Venetian monuments, with minarets adding a touch of the Orient. While architectural similarities invite comparison with Hania, Rethymno has a character all its own. The name Rethymno means 'stream of water' and evidence...
HA GORGE OAPAm XA
Some 13.5km north of Ierapetra is the wild and beautiful Ha Gorge, perhaps the most challenging gorge to traverse in all of Europe. More of an extreme climbing experience than a hike - most of the time you need ropes or must swim - the Ha Gorge is a narrow rent in the imposing mountains with water running its entire length - including 27 waterfalls. The first intrepid climbers to successfully cross it 1987 took seven days to tackle the 1800m gorge. It was secured in recent times and an...
Around Hra Sfakion
A scenic, hair-raisingly steep, 12km winding road west from Hora Sfakion takes you to Anopoli AvootoXt , a quiet village in a fertile plateau at the base of the Lefka Ori, with a memorial to resistance fighters in the main plateia square . It was one of the few areas that did not fall to the Turks, which you can appreciate when you see its location. The Orfanoudakis bakery 28250 91189 has some exceptional semi-sweet biscuits, rusks and sweet treats including mega-size Sfakianes pites. They also...
Economy
Crete has ridden the wave of Greece's economic growth in the past five years, and the increased availability of credit, has sparked a frenzied, if ultimately unsustainable, consumer spending boom. On the other hand, most households have felt the brunt of higher living costs since Greece joined the Euro Zone in 2001. Indeed, Crete's per capita GDP and investment levels have been higher than the national average. Crete also has the highest rate of self-employed people in Greece and amongst the...
Moni Hrysoskalitissas
Five kilometres north of Elafonisi, is this beautiful monastery 28220 61261 admission 2 S 7am-7pm perched on a rock high above the sea. Hrysoskalitissa hris-os-ka-iee-tiss-as means 'golden staircase'. Some accounts suggest the top step of the 98 steps leading to the monastery was made of gold, but could only be seen by the faithful. Another version says one of the steps was hollow and used to hide the church's treasury. In any case, during the Turkish occupation the gold, along with much of the...
Lendas Aentai
The major appeal of the small beach settlement at Lendas is its remoteness and laid-back feel. Reached via a long and winding road with a dramatic last few kilometres descending to the village, Lendas clings to the cliff over the beach and has a pleasant view over the Libyan Sea. The narrow pebbly beaches are pleasant enough, but there are some better beaches to explore nearby and some stunning rock formations. Lendas attracts mostly independent travellers, including regulars who have been...
Sights
The massive fortifications built by the Venetians to protect their city remain impressive. The best-preserved section is the western wall, running from the Firkas Fortress to the Siavo Bastion. It was part of a defensive system begun in 1538 by engineer Michele Sanmichele, who also designed Iraklio's defences. Entrance to the fortress is via the gates next to the Naval Museum. From the top of the bastion you can enjoy some fine views of the old town. The Venetian lighthouse at the entrance to...
Eating Dta
Paleohora has decent and generally good-value eateries. Dionysos Taverna 28230 41243 mains 4.40-6.80 One of the oldest tavernas in town, the popular Dionysos is known for top-grade food, particularly its excellent mayirefta. There is a good range of vegetarian dishes and grills. It has a roomy interior and tables spread across the main street. I,111 Third Eye 28230 41234 mains 5 It's not just vegetarians who flock to the Third Eye, just inland from Pahia Ammos. Crete's only vegetarian...
Innahorion Innaxopion
Innahorion is the highly scenic mountainous region south of Kissamos-Kastelli, which is renowned for its chestnut trees. It is often referred to as 'Ennia Horia', meaning nine villages, but there are actually more than nine villages dotting the region. If you have your own transport you can drive through the region en route to Moni Hrysoskalitissas and Elafonisi or, with a little backtracking, to Paleohora. Alternatively, you can take a circular route, returning via the coast road. Heading...
Sleeping Eating Njv
Accommodation throughout the region consists of rather scattered and largely underutilised domatia. There are no large tourist hotel complexes. Panorama Taverna and Rooms 28220 51163 Katsomadatos d 25 With a balcony overlooking the gorge, these simple, clean rooms make a great base for walks. There's no air-con but they are cool at night. Run by Manolis and his Dutch wife Antonia, the taverna has a range of mayirefta and can make meals to order for guest on longer stays. Arhontas Taverna and...
AROUND KISSAMOSKASTELLI Polyrrinia IMupphvia
The ancient city ruins of Polyrrinia pol-ee-ren-ee-a lie about 7km south of Kissamos-Kastelli, above the village of Ano Paleokastro also called Polyrrinia . It's a steep climb to the ruins, but the sea and mountain views are stunning and the region is blanketed with wild flowers in spring. The city was founded by the Dorians in the 6th century BC and was constantly at war with the Kydonians from Hania. Coins from the period depict the warrior-goddess Athena, who was evidently revered by the...
Kaitfi Kepatokamiiox
At the twin mini-resorts and now contiguous villages of Kastri and Keratokambos, 13km downhill, there's a pleasant tree-lined beach and a number of eating and sleeping choices. The tranquillity of this tiny resort is its chief asset. Many Germans have moved in and bought property here. If you like peace and quiet and have a few books to read, this is your kind of place. There are no facilities other than a mini-market. Filoxenia Apartments fax 2895 051 371 studio 25-30 S These lovely two- to-...
Zaros Zafoi
If the name rings a bell, it's probably because 'Zaros' is the label on the litres of mineral water you've been guzzling. Around 46km southwest of Iraklio, Zaros is a refreshingly unspoilt traditional village that's known for its spring water and bottling plant. Various excavations in the region indicate that the Minoans and the Romans settled here, lured by the abundant supply of fresh water. The spring water from Zaros also supplied the great Roman capital of Gortyna Byzantine monasteries are...
Zakpox Kaikat Zakpox
The village of Zakros zah-kros , 45km southeast of Sitia, an important agricultural centre, is the nearest permanent settlement to the east-coast Minoan site of Zakros, 7km away. While there is little incentive to linger in the village there is only one hotel , it's a lively place where the kafeneia and ouzeries are always animated and there is rarely a tourist in sight. Zakros is the starting point for the trail through the Zakros Gorge, known as the Valley of the Dead. It takes its moniker...
Sleeping Eating
Esplanade Apartments Kalathas 2821069810 www .esplandehotel.gr studio amp apt 40-85 El D g This two-storey hotel has roomy, light and breezy studios with phone, TV and well-stocked kitchenette. Georgi's Blue Apartments Kalathas 2821064080 www.blueapts.gr studio amp apt 85-130 E Georgi's is a tasteful, rather upmarket complex of well furnished studios and apartments with phone, satellite TV, fridge and kitchenette. There's a pleasant communal lounge area near the pool and a private little cove...
Iraklio Hpakaeio
Bustling Iraklio also called Heraklion can be a shock to the senses when you first arrive with a Greek island holiday in mind. Crete's hectic, noisy and traffic-ridden capital is a sprawling modern metropolis of concrete apartment blocks that lacks the architectural charms of Rethymno and Hania. Yet Greece's fifth-largest city has undergone a significant makeover in recent years and is experiencing a period of urban renewal. The waterfront redevelopment has made a marked difference and the...
Matala Mataaa
Matala ma-ta-la , on the coast 11km southwest of Phaestos, was once one of Crete's best-known hippie hang-outs. When you see the dozens of eerie caves speckling the rock slab on the edge of the beach, you'll see why '60s hippies found it, like, groovy see boxed text, opposite . The caves were originally Roman tombs cut out of the sandstone rock in the 1st century AD and have been used as dwellings for many centuries. Windows, doors and beds were carved out of the soft rock. Since those halcyon...
Around Iraklio
Once the capital of Minoan Crete, Knossos 2810 231 940 admission 6, ind Iraklio Archaeological Museum 10 S 8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-Mar is the island's major tourist attraction. The palace site is in an evocative location, about 5km south of Iraklio, surrounded by green hills and shaded by pine trees, though the road leading up to it is an uninspiring gauntlet of souvenir shops. The ruins of Knossos k-nos-tw were uncovered in 1900 by the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans pl62 ....
Entertainment
The harbour's lively and prominent waterfront bars and clubs around the mosque are mostly patronised by tourists, while the row of clubs along Sourmeli are frequented by American soldiers from the nearby bases. There are some lively bars in the streets of the Old Town. Synagogi 28210 96797 Skoufou 15 Housed in a roofless Venetian building that was once a synagogue, this popular lounge bar is the favourite haunt of young locals. Fagotto 28210 71877 Angelou 16 S7pm-2am Jul-May A Hania institution...
Tzermiado Tzepmiaao
Tzermiado dzer-mee-n i-do is a sleepy town with dusty little streets lined with houses overgrown with vines and hanging plants. It's the largest and most important town on the Lasithi Plateau and has a fair amount of visitors from the tour buses going to the Dikteon Cave. A number of shops sell rugs and embroideries, although they're not of a particularly high quality. Of better quality are Lasithi's superior potatoes, which are celebrated in a three-day festival at the end of August in...
AriOI IIAYAOX TPIOIIETPA
It's not surprising that the fabulous remote sandy beaches of Agios Pavlos and Triopetra have been chosen for yoga retreats see p211 . These unspoilt and peaceful beaches surrounded by sand dunes and rugged cliffs are arguably one of the most beautiful and serene stretches of unspoilt coastline in Crete. Agios Pavlos claims to be the location from where Icarus and Daedalus took their historic flight in ancient mythology, although nearby Agia Galini makes the same claim. Agios Pavlos is little...
Index
language 234, 236 activities 70-6, see also individual activities Adele 133 Agia Fotini 133 Agia Galini 142-3 Agia Irini Beach 141 Agia Irini Gorge 101-2 Agia Marina 91 Agia Paraskevi chapel 206 Agia Roumeli 95-6 Agia Sofia Cave 113 Agia Triada 171-2,171 Agias Fotias 205 Agiofarango Gorge 174 Agios Antonios church 166 Agios Georgios 191-2 Agios Georg ios church lerapetra 202 Agios loannis 202 Agios loannis Beach 106 Agios Kirkos 102 Agios Markos Basilica 153 Agios Minas Cathedral 153 Agios...