Muara Teweh
In the heart of Sungai Barito logging country, Muara Teweh is the last river-boat stop, unless the water is high enough to reach Purukca hu. From Purukcahu you can go further north by boat and hire Dayak guides to trek into the northeastern mountains and forest featuring waterfalls, stone carvings and orchids. Climbing Gunung Bondang, a holy peak to some Dayaks, takes a day. Near Gunung Pacungapung, on the border between Central and East Kalimantan, a cement pillar marks the geographic centre of Borneo.
You can also trek overland to Long Iram in East Kalimantan for boats down Sungai Mahakam to Samarinda. Different routes are possible, via jungle or logging roads on which you can try hitching rides with passing vehicles, for this journey of up to two weeks.
Muara Teweh's main settlement is on the north bank of Sungai Barito. Jin Panglima Batur, parallel to the river, is the main drag. Rooms at the very comfortable Wisma Pacifik (@ 21231;Jin Panglima Batur87;s/d incl breakfast 170,000/194,OOORp; IE) include TV, refrigerator, and hot water, plus English-speaking staff. Barito Hotel (@ 21136; Jin Panglima Batur43;s/d/trfrom 25,000/40,000/55,OOORp) is the alternative.
Find waning along Jin Panglima Batur west of Barito Hotel, up the hill on Jin Surapati, and near the market. In Purukcahu there are a couple of losmen (r around 35,OOORp), or try the longhouse at Konut (10km).
Muksin Hussein (@ 22342), who is a teacher in Muara Teweh and speaks English, can help arrange guides. In Purukcahu, ask for Mahrani, a Siang Dayak who also speaks English.
Daily (and nightly) buses travel equally long and uncomfortable routes to Palangka
Raya (50,OOORp, 12 hours) and Banjarmasin (55,OOORp, 12 hours) from the terminal across the bridge (3km). Minibuses to Purukcahu (50,OOORp, three hours) use the terminal on Jin Surapati. Cargo ships still ply Sungai Barito, and it is possible to negotiate a ride.
The airport is 5km north of town, but at the time of research, DAS flights to Palangka Raya were suspended.
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