BOAT Qba
Pelni 051169 Jin Yos Sudarso ships steam to Makassar 250,OOORp , Pantaloan 110,OOORp , Pare Pare 221,500Rp , Surabaya 365,OOORp and beyond from Pelabuhan Malundung, the main harbour at the south end of Jin Yos Sudarso. Travel agents are generally more helpful than Pelni's office. Morning ferries to Tawau in Sabah 180,OOORp, 3Vi hours depart daily except Sunday from Pelabuhan Malundung Indomaya and Tawindo Express run on alternate days and are very similar choose the day, not the boat....
Getting There Away Cmk
Minivans go to Sukau from Sandakan RM15, two hours , or you can take a mini-van to Lahad Datu and get out at the Sukau turn-off. Expect to wait a while for a mini-van from here to Sukau RM10, one to Wi hours . If you're on a package, transport will be provided. The last 45km to Sukau is along a gravel road that becomes a mud track in rain. Public transport is often suspended when it's wet 4WD transport is available from Sandakan or Lahad Datu, or maybe through your accommodation. If you're...
BUS Tiu
Buses to KK, Lahad Datu, Semporna and Tawau leave from the long-distance bus station in a large parking lot at Batu 2.5, 4km north of town, not a particularly convenient location. Most buses, and all minivans, leave in the morning. Get the latest schedule from hotels or the tourist office. To reach the bus station, catch a local bus RM1 from the stand at the waterfront. A taxi from the station to town is around RM10. Bus companies have booths at the station and touts abound. Most express buses...
Dipterocarp Forest
Most of the lowland forest in Borneo is dominated by one family of trees called dipterocarps. More than 250 species of these magnificent, towering trees are found on the island, where they form the tallest and most diverse rainforests on earth - a single hectare of dipterocarp forest may have over 200 species of trees Of the countiess animals found in a dipterocarp forest, none are as interesting as the many types of gliding animals. In addition to birds and bats, there are frogs, lizards,...
Insect Bites Stings
Bedbugs don't carry disease but their bites are very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed at night to feed on you. You can treat the itch with an antihistamine. Lice inhabit various parts of your body but most commonly your head and pubic area. They can be difficult to treat and you may need numerous applications of an antilice shampoo such as permethrin. Transmission is via close contact with an infected person. Pubic lice are usually contracted...
B
Ba Kelalan 215,216 backpackers 290 Badawi, Abdullah Ahmad 21 Bahasa Indonesia 324 Bahasa Malaysia 324-5 Bajau peoples 26, 33, 121, 129, 284,285 Bako National Park56, 172-6, 175, 60,61 Bakun Hydroelectric Project 21 Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 192 Balikpapan 267-71,270 Balikpapan Plaza 267 bamboo handicrafts 265 Bandar Labuan 121-3,122 BandarSeri Begawan 221-9, 223 accommodation 225-6 food 226-7 travel to from 227-8 travel within 228-9 Bangar233 Bangun 244 Banjarese Banjars 32 Banjarmasin 260-4...
GETTING THERE AWAY Air
There are flights between Brunei and the following cities Auckland, Bangkok, Brisbane, Darwin, Denpasar Bali , Dubai, Frankfurt, Bukit Empire Shahbandar Hotel 103m V Q MUARA Pula Brunei Boy runei Selirong I International 'Airport BANDAR SERI 1 , BEGAWAN , -D n OSundar 8SB-BSngar ySpeedboat Route TEMBURONG Peradayan 1A Bukit Peradayan 374m dt Patoi 374m t i Sungai Uang Sungai Liang orest Recreation Park Hong Kong, Jakarta, Jeddah, Kuala Lumpur, London, Manila, Perth, Sharjah, Shanghai,...
Muara Teweh
In the heart of Sungai Barito logging country, Muara Teweh is the last river-boat stop, unless the water is high enough to reach Purukca hu. From Purukcahu you can go further north by boat and hire Dayak guides to trek into the northeastern mountains and forest featuring waterfalls, stone carvings and orchids. Climbing Gunung Bondang, a holy peak to some Dayaks, takes a day. Near Gunung Pacungapung, on the border between Central and East Kalimantan, a cement pillar marks the geographic centre...
UPPER MAHAKAM Melak Around
The early morning wail of 4WDs and slosh of mixing concrete drown out bird songs in Melak, far different from fishing villages along the route from Samarinda. Hosting a colourful market on Tuesdays, Melak is a good supply stop for trips further north. Areas surrounding Melak are the real reason to stop here. The orchid reserve at Kersik Luway 16km southwest , particularly noted for black orchids, was badly damaged in the fires of 1997-98. Recovery remains slow. Prime season is around February,...
Women In Borneo
In Borneo, women face the same issues as in their national societies. Whatever their group, their challenge is balancing customary duties with responsibilities of the modern era. Women still undertake traditional roles but are also well educated and gainfully employed. Two-income households are increasingly common and often a necessity, with women widely represented in government and industry. Dayaks track lineage through both father and mother, and gender roles are strictly prescribed. In some...
Lahad Datu
With a small flat area along the bay hemmed in by a large hill, Lahud Datu resembles Sandakan, but its 19th century legacy is pirates, not plutocrats. The nearby village of Tungku was an infamous base for the Lanun brigands, who did a sideline in slave trading. There's still piracy in these waters with speedboats and machines guns rather than schooners and sabres, so stick to land, lubber, and be warned that the waterfront with some ATMs gets deserted after dark. Modern Lahud Datu is an...
Heath Forest
Acidic sandy soils that lack nutrients are home to a very important and highly specialised habitat known in Borneo as kerangas heath forest . Found in both coastal and montane areas, heath forest is increasingly restricted to protected coastal areas like Bako National Park or incredibly remote mountain tops like the Maliau Basin in Sabah. This forest type is composed of small, densely packed trees that seldom top 20m in height. Due to lack of nutrients, plants of the heath forest have unique...
Leeches Suckblood
There's just no getting around it if you want to experience Borneo's magnificent tropical rainforests, you're going to encounter leeches. If it's been dry or you happen to visit a relatively leech-free area, you may come to the conclusion that all this talk of leeches is just a way to scare off the greenhorns. But, it's likely that, at some point, you're going to encounter leeches, perhaps lots of them. There are two types of leech in Borneo the common ground-dwelling brown leech and the...
Hepatitis E
Hepatitis E is transmitted through contaminated food and water, has similar symptoms to hepatitis A, but is far less common. It's a severe problem in pregnant women and can result in the death of both mother and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and prevention is by following safe eating and drinking guidelines while you're travelling in Borneo. In 2000, dozens of participants in an Eco-Challenge event held at Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley Sabah came down with leptospirosis,...
Gunung Murud
Sarawak's highest mountain 2423m is just begging to be climbed, but very few visitors go to the trouble required to put together a trip. The mountain can be reached from both Ba Kelalan and Bario from Bario, the more common starting point, a typical return trip takes six days. Needless to say, this is only for the very fit. The typical itinerary from Bario is as follows day one - Bario to Pa Lungan four hours day two - Pa Lungan to Long Rapung four hours day three - Long Rapung to Church Camp...
Travellers Diarrhoea
Traveller's diarrhoea is by far the most common problem affecting travellers - between 30 to 50 of people will suffer from it within two weeks of starting their trip. In over 80 of cases, traveller's diarrhoea is caused by a bacteria there are numerous potential culprits , and therefore responds promptly to treatment with antibiotics. Treatment with antibiotics will depend on your situation - how sick you are, how quickly you need to get better, where you are etc. Traveller's diarrhoea is...
AROUND KUDAT Beaches
You'll find some of Sabah's best beaches around Kudat, where the water is shallow and safe for paddling. Pantai Bak Bak, about 5km from Kudat, is the town beach. It's a decent, if slighdy rocky, beach. To get there from Kudat if you have a rental car , take the main coastal road out of Kudat you must go inland a bit to get around the airport, but otherwise hug the coast , following signs for the Tip of Borneo - Pantai B k Bak is clearly marked off the main coastal road. A better beach can be...
Loksado
At the end of the road 40km east of Kandangan, Loksado is the largest of about 20 villages spread around Pegunungan Meratus. Limits of the 2500-sq-km range include Kandangan and Amuntai to the west and KalSel's coast to the east. Thanks to road access, Loksado is an important market village and base for trekking. flmat E 081-3487-66573 , a personable Dayak who speaks good English, is Loksado's tourism source. A new visitor-information kiosk sets standard prices for services. Reports of...
Snake Island
Pulau Kalampunian Damit is littie more than a large rock covered in dense vegetation but is famous for the sea snakes that come ashore to mate, hence the island's nickname, Snake Island. On any one day up to 150 snakes can be present, curled up under boulders, among roots and in tree hollows. It's a fascinating phenomenon, but it's not the writhing mass of snakes that many visitors imagine based on descriptions given tour operators. If you do come out here, beware of the snakes - they are...
PRESERVING THE PESUT Budiono
As a child, I played in Balikpapan Bay's mangroves, always looking for colourful fish. Alarmed by forest destruction through timber companies' failure to practice selective logging and reforestation, plus illegal logging and lack of law enforcement, I chose to study Forestry Management, focused on conservation, at Mulawarman University in Samarinda. Assisting with coastal dolphin research, I was fascinated by their intelligence and social behaviour. I got interested in Sungai Mahakam dolphins,...
Kutai National Park 1
Lauded by wild orangutan buffs, Kutai National Park's 198,000 hectares include coastal mangroves, Indonesia's largest, relatively untouched ironwood forest, plus a wide variety of wild orchids. The park was hit hard by the fires of 1997-98, but has recovered to face renewed threat from illegal loggers and wildcat miners. Kutai is surrounded by energy extraction - coal, oil, gas - and park authorities have enlisted companies in preservation efforts. Besides orangutans, Kutai has at least a...
Cempaka
Cempaka's diamond fields S closed Fri illustrate how unglamorous pursuing precious rocks can be. Prospectors work up to their necks in water, hoisting silt to be washed in makeshift contraptions and sifted for gold specks, diamonds or agate. From 1846, 20-carat diamonds have been found - and largest of all, the 167.5-carat Tri Sakti Thrice Sacred in August 1965. Most diamonds are a fraction as big, but hopes of a huge find keep miners focused. To reach Cempaka, take a Banjarmasin-Martapura Colt...
Upau
One of the smallest Dayak groups, Deah Dayaks have lived at the remote northern edge of Pegunungan Meratus, isolated by centuries of aristocratic intrigue and refusal to embrace Islam. In Upau meaning 'jackfruit', abundant locally Deah traditional ceremonies are still performed, including the balian shaman ceremony to drive evil spirits from the sick, and the ant preparing warriors for head-hunting although they now skip the head-hunting . English is rare, and there's no formal accommodation....
Wildlife Tours
The Santubong area is home to a wide variety of wildlife, and guided wildlife tours are beginning to catch on here. Commonly spotted species include endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, known locally as pesut, estuarine monkeys, crocodiles and all manner of birds CPH Travel 242-289 www.cphtravel.com.my per person RM150, minimum 2 persons , based in Santubong, runs wildlife tours to the area. If you are already in the Santubong-Buntal area, consider going with local Buntal boatman, Mr Ehwan bin...
GETTING THERE AWAY Htn
IAT Indonesia Air Transport g 22663 Jin Danau Sentarum 21A and DAS g 21046 fly to from Pontianak 700,OOORp . DAS continues to Samarinda 1,390,OOORp . Taxis from the airport cost 3 5,OOORp, while taxis to the airport run 20,OOORp. Several companies downtown operate buses to Pontianak 125,OOORp, 20 hours and Sintang 90,OOORp, nine hours . A Pontaniak service passes through Sanggau for connections to Kuching in Sarawak. Local buses, angkot and ojek use the terminal on Jin Rahadi Usman, opposite...
River Rafting Kayaking
The rivers of Borneo offer scope for exciting river-trips, whether by kayak or raft. Keep in mind that water levels vary significantly throughout the year. Setting out to descend an unknown river in an isolated part of Borneo is a serious and dangerous undertaking indeed. Make sure you know what The'Coral Triangle', in you are getting into and, ideally, bring a local along with experience on the which Borneo is located, river in question. More than a few would-be first-descenders have come...
Tawau 1
Asiatic Travel amp Tours City Internet Zone HSBC Maybank PH Moneychanger Pro Divers Pulau Slpadan Resort amp Tours Reef Dive Resort amp Tours Slpadan Scuba Belmont Marco Polo First Hotel Hotel Soon Yee Kingston Hotel Loong Hotel North Borneo Hotel North City Hotel Mlllmewa Superstore Mlllmewa Superstore Restoran Aul Blsmlllah Belmont Marco Polo First Hotel Hotel Soon Yee Kingston Hotel Loong Hotel North Borneo Hotel North City Hotel Mlllmewa Superstore Mlllmewa Superstore Restoran Aul Blsmlllah...
Sebuku Sembakung National Park 1
Indonesia's newest national park, Sebuku Sembakung is Kalimantan's only elephant habitat. The 400,000-hectare protected area along KalTim's north border with Sabah is also in WWF's Heart of Borneo initiative. Sebuku Sembakung has six types of forests, from tidal swamp to green hills with limestone outcrops. Elephants favour plains in the reserve's central lowland forest. The park has no facilities for visitors. Borneo Ecotourism www.borneo-ecotourlsm.com or the WWF office in Malinau 0 0551...
Dangers Annoyances
Borneo is a safe and relatively easy place in which to travel. Brunei is on par with Japan in terms of safety, and Sabah is not far behind, with little to worry about beyond the occasional opportunistic crime. Most of Sarawak is also very safe for travellers, although towns like Sibu do have a few dodgy areas. Kalimantan is, for the most part, quite safe as well, but there are a few unsafe areas in parts of the bigger cities. As with anywhere else in the world, use your common sense if a place...
Balikpapan 1
AgungSedayu 1 C4 Pertamina Hospital 7 C4 Totogasono Travel 9 D4 Adika Hotel Bahtera 10 D4 Bintang City Hotel Hotel Buana Lestari 14 D4 Hotel Citra Nusantara 15 D4 Hotel Gajah Mada 16 D4 Hotel Gran Senyiur 17 D4 Hotel Grand TigaMustika 18 D4 Hotel Hotel Mirama Novotel Balikpapan 22 D4 24-hour Warung 23 D4 D4 Hero Supermarket see 29 Ocean's Resto 25 D4 Restoran Shangrilla 26 D3 Warung Rejeki see 14 Wi sma I kan Bakar 28 D4 Balikpapan Plaza 29 D4 Adam Air see 2 Batavia Air 30 D4 Bus Terminal see...
Sungai Mahakam
The 920km-long Sungai Mahakam provides easy access - by Kalimantan standards - to the natural wonders and traditional communities of southeast Borneo and beyond. Much of the riverbank, especially near Samarinda, bears scars of industrialisation and resource exploitation. Veering onto tributaries and small lakes transports travellers back into jungle and societies that resist the 21st century. Passenger boats leave Samarinda daily at 7am. These kapal biasa are 4m wide and at least four times as...
Midrange
Terrace Hotel 224-3554 www.terracebrunei.com Jin Tasek Lama rfrom B 60 If S Even if you're on a tight budget, consider spending a little more to enjoy the comforts of this excellent mid-range hotel. Rooms are clean and well taken care of, and there's a great little swimming pool and wireless internet access. There's also a decent restaurant on the ground floor. Deluxe rooms cost about B 10 more than standard rooms, but are well worth the price. Highly recommended. Jubilee Hotel 222-8070...
Sleeping Eating Drr
Losmen offer cakes with coffee, or tea with a sweet cake or bread in the morning, rather than full breakfast. Unfortunately, at the time of writing, Sangalaki Dive Resort www.sangalaki .net was closed. Losmen llham Pulau Derawan r 40,000-45,OOORp Small losmen has clean rooms with fans when the electricity is on and shared mandi. The attached waning serves Indonesian food meals 8000Rp to 16,OOORp . QLosmen Danakan 086-8121-6143 Pulau Derawan r per person incl meals 75,OOORp In the sea patois...
Transborneo Putussibau To Long Apari
The reasonably fit, ambitious and funded can attempt crossing to East Kalimantan. Trekking experience helps, but even novices are likely to do better than George Muller, the first European to try it. In 1825, Muller crossed the mountain range that now bears his name, then was beheaded. From Putussibau, trans-Kalimantan travel begins by boat to Tanjung Lokan. Then it's five to seven days walking across the Muller Range and pristine forests to the headwaters of Sungai Mahakam at Long Apari. From...
Long Bagun to Long Apari
When conditions allow, kapal biasa from Samarinda reach Long Bagun 350,OOORp, 36 hours , a small setdement with an abandoned longhouse, a decent shop for supplies, and quite basic Penginapan Artomorow r 40,OOORp . Rapids and shallows that restrict access for large vessels have also protected forests to the east and dampened the impact of modernisation. From Long Bagun, travellers can charter boats or trek through the forests. River rapids between Long Bagun and the next major set-dement, Long...
Muara Muntai
Built on mud flats, Muara Muntai is a colourful market town in the heart of Mahakam lake country, with sturdy boardwalks for streets and many fine wooden buildings, such as the Bappeda Agency for Regional Development office straight ahead from the dock. Muara Muntai goes quiet during afternoon prayers but the boardwalks fill up after dark. That's especially true when the weekly night market takes place appropriately, the day market also floats. Penginapan Adi Guna 0541-205871, 081-5451-46578 r...
Samboja Lodge
It's not surprising that Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation BOS www.orangutan.or.id has a low profile. It follows modern orangutan rehabilitation theory, minimising contact between humans and orangutans. The resident primatologist at the BOS Samboja Lestari re-introduction project warns, 'Those wishing to hug orangutans will need to go elsewhere.' In fact, no orangutan rehabilitation program endorses hugging. Despite the antisocial agenda, BOS opened Samboja Lodge 081-153-7630...
Pontianak 1
Main Post Office 7 A4 Mentari Tour 8 C4 Mitra Tour amp Travel 9 Tour amp Travel 10 C4 Dayak Equator Istana Katedral Santo Yosef 15 B3 Mesjid Museum Negeri Pontianak 17 C6 C4 Executive Buses to Kuching 41 C5 Executive Buses to Kuching 42 03 C3 Harbour Terminal for Passengers. .44 B2 43 43 Kapuas I ndah B em o Term i nal 45 C3 Opelet luminal 46 C3 OpHot Ifiminal Antasan 47 C4 Pelm 48 A4 Pimst Haiboui 49 C3 River l ony leiminal. 50 C3 Siantan Bus I otminal 51 C2 Srivvijaya 52 B3 Taxi St.ind 53 B3...
igl pop
So nice they named it twice, Berau is also called Tanjung Redep. At the confluence of Sungai Kelai and Segah forming Sungai Berau, it s visited by tourists solely as a transit point to Pulau Derawan. That requires an overnight stay coming and going, and Berau s relaxed, low-key character lets travellers enjoy the sentence. Technically, Tanjung Redep is the spit of land between Sungai Kelai and Segah, and that s where the action is. During the day, you won t find many surprises aside from clean...
Marabahan Margasari
To see river life, take a boat 65km up Sungai Barito from Banjarmasin to Marabahan, a small town with some traditional Banjar-style tall roof wooden houses. Losmen on the river, such as Hotel Bahtera r30,000Rp , have adequate accommodation with shared mandi. From Marabahan, charter a boat to Margasari, known for rattan and bamboo handicrafts. Colts run daily between Marabahan and Banjarmasin 25,000Rp, three hours . Boats run five times weekly from Banjarmasin s Pasar Baru 15,000Rp, six hours .
T
255, 62, 63 Tanjung Redep 282-4 Tanjung Selor 285 Taoism 36-7 Tapinbini 253 Tarakan 287-8, 287 TasekMerimbun 230 Tawau 151-4,152 Tawau Hills Park 154 taxis 311-12 tea 44-5 front cover Telok Melano 183 Telok Pandan Kecil 175 Temburong District 232-4 temples Hong San Temple 163 PuuJihShih Temple 135 Sam Sing Kung Temple 135 San ChingTian temple 202 Sang Ti Miao 163 Tua PekKong, Bintulu 194 Tua PekKong, Kuching 163 Tua Pek Kong, Miri 200 Tua Pek Kong, Sibu 187 Tenggarong 276-7, 277 Tengkorong...
Getting There Away Xgd
Batu Niah, the gateway to the park, is 11km west of Niah Junction on the Miri-Bintulu highway. Some express buses travelling between Miri RM10, m hours and Bintulu RM11, two hours stop at Niah Junction. When you buy your bus ticket in Miri or Bintulu, check that the bus stops in Niah Junction, as there are two highways between these two towns, and some buses do not go via Niah Junction. From Niah Junction, you will have to hire a private car to Batu Niah town RM10 or direct to the park RM15 ....
Bintulu
Bintulu is a busy little town on the north bank of the Batang Kemena, roughly midway between Sibu and Miri. The town came under James Brooke s sway in 1861, and the simple Council Negeri Memorial Jin Lebuh Raya Abang Galau north of the town centre commemorates Sarawak s first Council Negeri State Council , formed in 1867. In the centre of town overlooking the river, you ll find the Tamu Bintulu Bintulu Market Jin Main Bazaar S dawn-late afternoon , as well as Tua Pek Kong Jin Main Bazaar...
Sungai Kahayan
Central Kalimantan s interior is so far off the tourist track, there aren t even footprints to follow. Isolation has limited modernisation in Dayak villages above Tewah in the headwaters of Sungai Kahayan. Independent travel here is improvised, expensive and sometimes uncomfortable, with excellent Bahasa Indonesia essential. Any route is an adventure. Prices may fluctuate wildly from estimates following. Take a speedboat from Palangka Raya beyond Tewah, then a klotok up Sungai Hamputung to...
Samarinda O
BNI Bank............................ Hotel Pi rus......................... Internet Caf ...................... H any an i Hotel.................... Hotel MJ............................ JB Hotel............................. To Angkasa Express 500m I DAS 500m Plaza Lembuswana 500m Lempake Bus Terminal 2km Pampa ng 2 6km Kota Bangui3 60km Bontang Okm 30,000Rp offers buffet breakfast and 24-hour room service. JB Hotel 0 737-688 jbhotel_samarinda yahoo.com Jin Agus Salim 16 r 150,000-240,OOORp E New...
Sleeping Eating Dqv
There s plenty of accommodation in Sepilok, but none that s a great venue with great value Several places tick one box. Unless you re already in Sepilok and going to SORC in the morning, there s no reason to stay over, and even then, Sepilok is easy enough to reach from Sandakan. Aside from restoring the two feedings ticket policy to encourage afternoon arrivals to spend the night, Sepilok desperately needs a night-time attraction. Even the store that sells beer closes at 6pm. Hotels are...
Datah Bilang
Datah Bilang is a Protestant community of Kenyah and Bahau Dayaks, who moved from the Apokayan Highlands in the 1970s. Some older women have traditional elongonated ear lobes and will charge 15,OOORp to 20,OOORp per photograph. Long Hubung 100,OOORp, 45 minutes is another Bahau Dayak village with a basic losmen r50,OOORp . Travellers with a thirst for back roads and good knowledge of Bahasa Indonesia can tackle Sungai Merah northeast into the highlands then cross to Tabang, a rare route that...
Tours 1
Kalimantan Tourism Development g 0819-5205-6762 www.wowborneo.com kaiimantantours gmaii .com Offers unique itineraries, including fishing from a klotokon Sungai Rungan and cruises on theRahai iPangun floating ecohotel, named for a historic Dayak trading vessel that ventured as far as China. Kevin Maulana S 323-4735 kevinmaulana telkom .net Jin Milono Km 1.5 Full-service, full-price tours to the interior. This agency also books flights, Kijangs, and charter cars. Mulio Angkasa Raya Tour amp...
Travel Agencies 1
Agung Sedayu ai 420-601 fax 420-447 Jin Sudirman 28 Best source for Pelni schedule and all boat tickets. Also books domestic flights. Bayu Buana Travel 422-751 www.bayubuana travel.com Jin Ahmad Yani Very helpful English-speaking staff for flights, Sungai Ma hakam tours. Golden Nusa Travel 417-321 ticket-bpn golden nusa.com Hotel Benakutal, Jin Ahmad Yani Staff speak English and try hard to please. Kaltim Adventure 732-563 kaltim_adven turebpn yahoo.com Complex Ballkpapan Permal, Jin Sudirman...
Klotok Hire
Klotok travel is a windfall pleasure of visiting Tanjung Puting. These 8m-to-10m houseboats serve as transport, accommodation and restaurant, generally for up to four adults. At night, crews moor well away from settlements, so passengers can enjoy sunsets and wildlife peacefully. Sleep on mattresses on deck under mosquito nets, and wake to the haunting cries of gibbons and lilting songs of sun-birds It s like those tapes of the rainforest, one visitor said. Three days is a reasonable length of...