AROUND PRAYA Sukarara
The main street here is given over to touristy, commercial craft shops, but you may want to put up with the sales speak in order to see the various styles of weaving and watch the weavers at work. Darnia Setia Artshop h 7am-6pm has the widest range of textiles, including ikat, some coming from Sumba and elsewhere in Flores. To reach Sukarara, take a bemo to Puyung along the main road. From there, hire a ci-domo or walk the 2km to Sukarara. Penujak is well known for its traditional gera-bah...
The Legend Of Dalem Bedaulu
A legend relates how Dalem Bedaulu possessed magical powers that allowed him to have his head chopped off and then replaced. Performing this unique party trick one day, the servant entrusted with lopping off his head and then replacing it unfortunately dropped it in a river and, to his horror, watched it float away. Looking around in panic for a replacement, he grabbed a pig, cut off its head and popped it upon the king's shoulders. Thereafter, the king was forced to sit on a high throne and...
Ubung
Well north of the town, on the road to Gili-manuk, Ubung is the terminal for northern and western Bali and most long-distance bus service. In the complex, there is a helpful tourist office see pi 65 to provide help with fares and schedules. Arriving here by taxi guarantees a reception by baggage and ticket touts. Gilimanuk for the ferry to Java 25,000Rp Pancasari for Danau Bratan 15,000Rp Singaraja via Pupuan or Bedugul 28,000Rp
Medical Checklist
Recommended items for a personal medical kit antifungal cream eg clotrimazole antibacterial cream eg muciprocin antibiotic for skin infections eg amoxi-cillin clavulanate or cephalexin antibiotics for diarrhoea include norfloxacin or ciprofloxacin for bacterial diarrhoea azithromycin for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery tinidazole antihistamine - there are many options eg cetirizine for daytime and promethazine for night antiseptic eg Betadine antispasmodic for stomach cramps eg buscopan...
Shipping Large Items
It might just be feasible to carry home a few folding chairs or artworks, but generally, if you buy large or heavy items you'll need to have them shipped home. For items that are shipped, you'll pay a 40 or 50 deposit and the balance plus any taxes or import duties when you collect the items at home. If possible, arrange for delivery to your door - if you have to pick the items up from the nearest port or freight depot you may be up for extra port charges. Most places selling furniture or heavy...
Major Temples
Bali has thousands of temples, but some of the most important are listed here, and shown on the colour highlights map, pp2-3. Some temples are so important they are deemed to belong to the whole island rather than particular communities. There are nine kahyangon jogat, or directional temples. Pura Besakih p216 in Besakih, East Bali. Pura Goa Lawah p221 near Padangbai, East Bali. Pura Lempuyang p233 nearTirta Gangga, East Bali. Pura Luhur Batukau p241 on Gunung Batukau, Central Mountains. Pura...
North Of Labuhan Lombok
This road has limited public transport and becomes very steep and windy as you near Anyar. There are isolated black-sand beaches along the way, particularly at Obel Obel. Leaving Labuhan Lombok, look out for the giant mahogany trees about 4km north of the harbour. From Labuhan Pandan, or from further north at Sugian, you can charter a boat to the uninhabited Gili Sulat and Gili Pentangan. Both islands have lovely white beaches and good coral for snorkelling, but no facilities. Just before the...
WEST OF THE CENTRE Jl Bisma 1
Close to town, this area maintains rural charm while moving upmarket. Uma Sari Cottage Map pp176-7 981538 www.uma sari.com Jl Bisma r 35-40 g g While ducks patrol the rice in the surrounding fields, you can patrol the jade-green pool here looking for fun. Most of the eight large rooms are fan-only go for the upper floor as the verandas have the best views. Honeymoon Guesthouse Map pp176-7 3 973282 www.casalunabali.com JI Bisma r350,000-600,OOORp g Run by the Casa Luna p 194 clan and set in a...
Recommended Vaccinations
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information they stock all available vaccines and will be able to give specific recommendations for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy. Most vaccines don't produce immunity until at least two weeks after they're given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before...
The Sembalun Valley
High on the eastern side of Gunung Rinjani is the beautiful Sembalun Valley, whose inhabitants descend from the Hindu Javanese. The two main settlements are Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung. The former is a popular starting point for treks up Gunung Rinjani. The statue of an enormous garlic bulb in the village is indicative of the area's main crop, which is harvested in October. Sembalun Bumbung, 3km south of Sembalun Lawang and just off the main road, is a sprawling and relatively wealthy...
Jl Goutama
These three places have more style than the cheaper options on this street. Nirvana Pension amp Gallery Map p188 s 975415 www.nirvanaku.com Jl Goutama 10 s d 150,000 200,OOORp There's alang alang woven thatch roofs, a plethora of paintings, ornate doorways and modern bathrooms with hot water here. Batik courses are also held pl85 . Agung Cottages Map p188 975414 Jl Goutama r 150,000-250,OOORp, villa 300,OOORp g Follow a short path to reach this slightly rural-feeling retreat with friendly...
Clothes
For fashion and fabrics, the most interesting shops are found on Monkey Forest Rd, Jl Dewi Siti and Jl Hanoman. Many will make or alter to order. Pusaka Map p188 978619 Monkey Forest 71 'Modern ethnic clothing' is the motto here, which translates into cool, comfy yet stylish cottons. Need a gift for somebody small or not so small Adorable house-made plush toys are only 5000Rp. Look for the fountain out front. Wild Ginger Map pp176-7 l 979248 Jl Hanoman 1 This small air-con boutique has gorgeous...
Io Co D
Istana Kuta Galler a 123 E4 Jl Melasti Art Market 124 C4 Jonathan Gallery see 83 Kuta Sq Art Market 125 C8 D8 C8 E7 C8 131 D7 B1 Surfer Girl 132 D6 D6
Tebesaya
A little further east, this quiet village comprises little more than its main street, Jl Sukma, which runs between two streams. Biangs Map pp176-7 HI 976520 Jl Sukma 28 r 50,000-100,OOORp In a little garden, Biangs - mama -has six well-maintained rooms, with hot water. The views expand as you rise up the price chart. Family Guest House Map pp176-7 H 974054 Jl Sukma famllyhouse lt atelkom.net r80,000-350, OOORp This justifiably popular place is set in a pleasant garden. Healthy breakfasts...
Dangers Annoyances
It's important to note that compared with many places in the world, Bali is fairly safe. There are some hassles from the avaricious, but most visitors face many more dangers at home. Petty theft occurs but it is not prevalent. Security concerns have increased since the 2002 and 2005 bombings but these tend to fade after a while. The odds you will be caught up in such a tragedy are low. Note that large luxury hotels which are part of international chains tend to have the best security. As for...
Jalan Silayukti
This little strip of beach places a mere two minutes east of the village makes for a mellow hangout. Made's Homestay H 41441 Jl Silayukti s d 50,000 60,OOORp HI Clean simple rooms and internet access are the draws here. Kerti Beach Bungalows H 41391 Jl Silayukti r 50,000-80,OOORp fl Go for the 18 rooms in pretty bungalows rather than the stuffy rice barns. Padangbai Bilabong 0 0813-3831 2607 Jl Silayukti r 50,000-100,OOORp Go for the bungalows right up front at this scrupulously tidy place,...
Motorcycle Licence
If you have a motorcycle licence at home, get your IDP endorsed for motorcycles too. If you have an IDP endorsed for motorcycles you will have no problems. If not, you should obtain a local licence, which is valid for one month in Bali only. It's not worth getting a motorcycle licence for a day or two - rent or charter a car or minibus instead. The person renting the bike may not check your licence or IDP, and the cop who stops you maybe happy with a nonendorsed IDP or bribe. You might get away...
Around Singaraja
The interesting sites around Singaraja include some of Bali's most important temples. See p43 for background information. A few kilometres northeast of Singaraja, you can see an excellent example of the colourful architectural style of North Bali. Sangsit's Pura Beji is a subak village association for rice-growers temple, dedicated to the goddess Dewi Sri, who looks after irrigated rice fields. The sculptured panels along the front wall set the tone with their cartoonlike demons and amazing...
Aas
The Aas end of the Amed coast is sparsely E Meditasi fax 22166 r 150,000-200,OOORp Rooms are close to good swimming and snorkelling I at this chilled-out yet tidy place where the I bamboo bungalows have balconies overlook- ing the beach. As already noted, many places to stay have good caf s. Ones that are especially notable are listed here. Amed Caf 23473 Pondok Kebun Wayan, east of Amed dishes 15,000-40,OOORp Set right on the beach, this refined caf with very comfy chairs has an extensive...
The Family Compound
The Balinese house looks inward - the outside is simply a high wall. Inside there is a garden and a separate small building or bale for each activity -one for cooking, one for washing and the toilet, and separate buildings for each 'bedroom'. In Bali's mild tropical climate people live outside, so the 'living room' and 'dining room' will be open veranda areas, looking out into the garden. The whole complex is oriented on the kaja towards the mountains -kelod toward the sea axis. Many modern...
Hppgb
The notorious HPPGB Mt Batur Tour Guides Associa-tion 52362 Toya Bu ngkah office Map p247 h 5am-9pm F'ura lati office Map p244 h 3am-noon has a monopoly on guided climbs up Gunung Batur. The HPPGB requires that all trekking agencies that operate on the mountain hire at least one of its guides for trips up the mountain. In addition, it has developed an unsavoury reputation for intimidation in requiring climbers to use its guides and during negotiations for its services. Reported tactics have...
Pererenan Beach
Yet to be found by the right developer, this is the beach if you want your sand wind-swept and your waves unridden. It's southeast of Pura Tanah Lot you get here from the south via Seseh. Once you've found it, why leave The friendly guys at Pondok Wisata Nyoman 081-2390 6900 Jl Raya Pantai Pererenan r 100,OOORp have four simple rooms although the bathrooms are a tad arty just behind the beach. There's a tiny caf nearby and that's it. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use,...
EATING Adc
There's great eating in Sanur at every budget level and at some places you can dine on the sand. Many of the drinking places listed are also great for a casual meal. And always check with higher-end places to see if they'll provide transport. For groceries and personal items, there's a large Hardy's Supermarket Map p140 i 285806 Jl Danau Tamblingan 136 , which has all manner of local and imported food items and periodicals. Nearby is Caf Batu Jimbar's gourmet market opposite . On Sundays,...
T
Tabanan 275,275,161 Taman Burung 303 Taman Kertha Gosa 213-14,160 Taman Narmada 291 Taman Nasional Bali Barat 69,72, 280-3,281 Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjan 72 Taman Rekreasi Bedugul 249 Taman Tirta Gangga 232 Taman Ujung 232 Taman Wedhi Budaya 168-70 Taman Wisata Tetebatu 317 Tampaksiring 203-4,160 Tanah Aron 234 Tandak Gerok 48 Tanjung Benoa 137-9,135 Tantri, K'tut 52 taxis 361 Bali 361 Lombok 361 Tegallalang 205,12 Tejakula 240 telephone services 345 television 51 temples 62-7 directional...
D Lul
vvi I h sunken bathtubs. There's a fine spa and good sports facilities, including tennis courts, though beware the restaurant prices -a sandwich is 100,000Rp plus tax . Close by, signposted from the road south to Bangsal, the Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club 640137 per round ind caddy amp cart US 80 is an attractive 18-hole, 72-par course by the sea, laid with Bermuda grass. Hole 9 faces the waters of Sira Bay, while holes 10 to 18 have great views of Rinjani. Manta Dive on Gili Trawangan can...
Jungutbatu 1
Most places to stay in Jungutbatu are basic and many of the following places have beachfront restaurants serving typical travellers' fare. The strip of beachfront joints is going through the classic Bali development cycle each year more rooms are added and old ones are spruced up. Unless noted otherwise, amenities are limited to cold water and fans. More upmarket establishments are spreading like weeds across the hillside to the south. Agung's Lembongan Lodge 24483 r 50,000-150,000Rp The simple...
INFORMATION Lpi
Bounty amp Ball Hal Pontoons 4 A3 Jackfish Point 6 D2 Pura Sakenan Mutiara Villa 19 B3 Nusa Lembongan Bungalows 20 C2 Bar amp Cafe Ball Kalnalu Saka Nusa Scooby Doo Bar amp Cal Two Thousand Cafe
Arts Crafts 1
You'll find paintings for sale everywhere. Check the gallery listings pi79 for recommendations. Prices in galleries range from cheap to collector-level depending on the artist. Prices often are lower if you buy directly from the artist's workshop. Small shops at Pasar Seni and by Monkey Forest Rd often have good woodcarvings, particularly masks. There are other good woodcarving places along Jl Bedulu east of Teges, and along the road between Nyuhkun-ing and the southern entrance to Monkey...
Jemeluk
Deddy's Bungalows amp Warung I 23510 waning _deddysiahotmail.com s d 35,000 50,OOORp On the hillside above the bay, Deddy's has three clean, pleasant rooms. Galang Kangin Bungalows s d from 50,000 80,OOORp One of several budget places in this area, this hillside place has clean, basic cold-water rooms. Hotel Prema Liong 23486 www.bali-amed.com r 150,000-400,OOORp Javanese-style two-storey bungalows are terraced up the hillside and have a new age ethos. The cold-water, open-air bathrooms are...
Islands
Gili Nanggu Cottages 623783 www.gilinangu .com cottages s d 100,000 120,OOORp, s d bungalows 225,000 275,OOORp a A great choice, this island resort has a beachfront location and rustic two-storey lumbung rice barn cottages, plus less attractive but comfortable air-con bungalows. Lifts from Lembar can be organised. Meals are 16,OOORp to 38,OOORp. Secret Island Resort 661-3579 www.secretis landresort.com r 200,OOORp, bungalow 250,OOORp, two bed villa 1,000,OOORp a This new resort on Gili Gede...
Pura Dalem Penunggekan
The exterior wall of this fascinating 'temple of the dead' features vivid relief carvings of wrong-doers getting their just desserts in the afterlife. One panel addresses the lurid fate of adulterers men in particular may find the viewing uncomfortable . Other panels portray sinners as monkeys, while another is a good representation of evil-doers begging to be spared the fires of hell. It's just to the south of Pura Kehen.
ORIENTATION Ksc
The once small village of Ubud has expanded to encompass its neighbours - Campuan, Penestanan, Padangtegal, Peliatan and Pen-gosekan are all part of what we see as Ubud today. The centre of town is the junction of Monkey Forest Rd and J1 Raya Ubud, where the bustling market and crowded bemo small minibus stops are found, as well as Ubud Palace and the main temple, Pura Desa Ubud. Monkey Forest Rd officially J1 Wanara Wana, but always known by its unofficial name runs south to Sacred Monkey...
Getting Away From It All
Dodging cars, motorcycles, touts, dogs and dodgy sidewalks can make walking through Kuta and Legian seem like anything but a vacation. It's intense and it can be stressful. You may soon be longing for uncrowded places where you hear little more the rustling of palm fronds and the call of a bird. Think you need to book a trip out of town Well, think again. You can escape to the country without leaving Kuta and Legian. All those teeming streets surround huge swaths of land and once you poke...
INFORMATION Buz
Ganesha Bookshop. Main Post Office. To' The Al il a 3 km Psyangan 4k n Ki'otamani 36km Exit Point forT White-water Kedewatan Raft . Monkey Forest amp Penestanan Walk To Batubulan Okrr, Denpasar 23km
Air Panas Banjar
Not far from Brahma Vihara Arama, these hot springs adult child 4100 2000Rp, parking lOOORp S8am-6pm percolate amid lush tropical plants. You can relax here for a few hours and have lunch at the restaurant, or even stay the night. Eight fierce-faced carved stone naga pour water from a natural hot spring into the first bath, which then overflows via the mouths of five more naga , into a second, larger pool. In a third pool, water pours from 3m-high spouts to give you a pummelling massage. The...
Eating Oqs
The waning are the destination of tourists across the south. Jimbaran's three groups of seafood warung do fresh barbecued seafood every evening and noon at many . The open-sided affairs are right by the beach and perfect for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets. Tables and chairs are set up on the sand - almost to the water's edge. The usual deal is to select your seafood fresh from iced displays or tanks and pay according to weight. Expect to pay around 35,OOORp per lOOg for live lobster, 15,OOORp...
Souvenirs
For souvenirs, try the numerous shops on the main street, or one of the various 'art markets'. Sanur Beach Market Map p140 off Jl Segara Ayu has a wide selection. Pasar Sindhu Art Market Map p140 off Jl Danau Tamblingan , the maze-like Shindu Beach Market Map p140 south of Jl Pantai Sindhu and Jaya Kesuma Art Market Map p140 Jl Mertasanl have numerous stalls selling T-shirts, sarongs, woodcarvings and other dubious items. Hardy's pi40 has a range of goods on its second floor at very good...
Mainland
Putri Doyang 0812 375 2459 Jl Raya Pelangangi, Tem-bowong s d 25,000 50,OOORp Simple clean rooms and hospitable owners make this losmen basic accommodation , 2km north of Pe-langan, a budget option worth considering. Sekotong Indah Beach Cottages 6601921 r without with air-con 55,000 85,OOORp a Offers basic tiled, nearly clean rooms with bamboo furniture that would benefit from a little more TLC. However, the location opposite a slim sandy beach 2km west of Taun is great. Meals are 5000 Rp to...
Glossary 1
For food and drink terms, see Eat Your Words, p91. adat - tradition, customs and manners aling aling - gateway backed by a small wall alus - identifiable 'goodies' in an arja drama anak-anak - children angker - evil power angklung - portable form of the gamelan anjing - dogs apotik - pharmacy arja - refined operatic form of Balinese theatre also a dance-drama, comparable to Western opera Arjuna - a hero of the Mahabharata epic and a popular temple gate guardian image bahasa- language Bahasa...
TRANSPORT Fbo
B2 C2 C2 headland, and in front of Windy Cottages, a few kilometres north of the town. You can rent snorkelling gear 25,000Rp per day from several spots along the beach near Senggigi Beach Hotel. Diving tr ips from Senggigi normally visit the Gili Islands, so you may want to consider basing yourself there. Professional dive centres include the following Blue Marlin 692003 www.dive-indo.com Jl Raya Senggigi amp Holiday Resort Lombok Dive Indonesia 639367 www.diveindonesiaonline .com Galeria...
BUDGET Lwb
Hotel Herta Yoga 621775 Jl Pejanggik 64 s d incl breakfast 40,000 50,OOORp, with air-con 80,000 85,OOORp a A new place with pleasant, spotless rooms with air-con, good mattresses, clothes rails and private shower mandi bath . The fan-only rooms are much rougher and a last resort only. It's located next to the Perama office. Karthika II Hotel 641776 Jl Subak 1, Cakra rwith fan air-con 70,000 90,OOORp a Built like a Balinese temple compound, this excellent-value place has squeaky clean, if...
Wuku Calendar
The wuku calendar is used to determine festival dates. The calendar uses 10 different types of weeks between one and 10 days long, which all run simultaneously. The intersection of the various weeks determines auspicious days. The seven- and five-day weeks are of particular importance. A full year is made up of 30 individually named seven-day weeks 210 days . Galungan, which celebrates the death of a legendary tyrant called Mayadenawa, is one of Bali s major festivals. During this 10-day...
Hiv
HIV is a major problem in many Asian countries, and Bali has one of the highest rates of HIV infection in Indonesia. Official HIV figures in Indonesia are unrealistically low and it s believed the incidence of the disease will increase significantly unless hospital procedures are improved and safe sex is promoted. The main risk for most travellers is sexual contact with locals, prostitutes and other travellers - in Indonesia the spread of HIV is primarily through heterosexual activity. The risk...
Info Xvj
On the road to the beach towns of East Bali, about 15km east of Singaraja, Yeh Sanih also called Air Sanih is a hassle-free seaside spot with a few guesthouses on the beachfront. It s named for its fresh-water springs, Air Sanih adult child 2000 1000Rp 8am-6pm , which are channelled into large swimming pools before flowing into the sea. The pools are particularly picturesque at sunset, when throngs of locals bathe under blooming frangipani trees - most of the time they re alive with frolicking...
Pelni
The national shipping line is Pelni www.pelni .co.id , which schedules large boats on longdistance runs throughout Indonesia. Three ships from Pelni stop at Benoa Harbour as part of their regular loops throughout Indonesia. Dobonsolo with Java, Nusa Tenggara, Maluku and northern Papua and Awu and Tilongkabila with Nusa Tenggara and southern Sulawesi. Prices are dependent on the route and the class of travel, and this can range widely in price. Check for details locally but in general fares,...
Lovina 1
Bayu Kartika..............................12 B1 Billibo Beach Cottages................13 A4 Harris Homestay.........................15 A1 Hotel Aneka Lovina....................16 B3 Hotel Angsoka............................17 A1 Hotel Banyualit...........................18 B2 Hotel Purnama...........................19 A3 Lovina Beach Hotel....................20 A3 Lupa-Lupa Lovina Cottages.......21 B2 Nirwana Seaside Cottages.........22 A1 Parma Hotel...............................23 A4 Pondok...