Northern Cameroon
Cameroon's northern provinces are a world apart from the lush south. Rolling grasslands give way to barren rocky outcrops of striking beauty, dotted with picturesque villages. Roads to the south are barely existent, so getting there means taking an overnight train or internal flight. Mainly Muslim, the north draws adventure travellers for the hiking and wildlife-viewing opportunities, all conveniently reached from the town of Maroua. Leafy N'Gaound r is the terminus of Cameroon's main railway...
Accra
With its back mostly turned to the Gulf of Guinea, taking little advantage of its waterfront location, Accra crawls up and over a modern landscape, gobbling up real estate and producing a chaotic low-rise skyline. Originally a scattering of villages controlled by Ga chiefs, today it's a sprawling city that extends eastwards almost 25km to the neighbouring city of Tema. Its congested and pockmarked pavements baking streets that in the midday heat can make a block feel like a kilometre shanty...
SLEEPING Nys
Mission Catholique i 343655 traore_celestine yahoo .fr Route du Niger s d with fan from US 7 10.50, s d with air-con US 11.50 17.50 g Friendly, spotless, well run, and close to the city centre. Booking in advance is a near necessity. Pension La Maison Blanche signposted off Route de Donka, Kip rwith fan US 9.50 Good value in a quiet location. The Amoussou drum and dance troupe next door welcomes visitors. H tel du Golfe 421394 off Route de Donka, Mini re r from US 15, ste 29 g Nothing fancy,...
Roads Less Travelled
Flights into Senegal's Dakar p477 are cheap and its vibrant nightlife, the beautiful colonial architecture in St-Louis p484 , the wildlife-watching opportunities of Pare National du Niokolo-Koba p488 and the spectacular birdlife of the Sine-Saloum Delta p488 all make it a good place to start. Most people then head southeast to Guinea. After checking out some fine beaches, Guinea's pumping music scene and the beauty of walking in the Fouta Djalon highlands p375 , it's easy to cut up into Mali by...
DANGERS ANNOYANCES Rsy
Simmering rebel activity and unexploded mines mean that travel to far northern Chad, including the Tibesti region, is impossible, and the growing rebellion rules out most of the east. The various police forces outside the capital can be a nuisance, but requests for bribes are rare. They're just not used to seeing travellers and so are unsure how to ensure your papers are in order expect lots of questions. Even in N'Djamena electricity and running water are intermittent, and many towns are...
INFORMATION Pcd
Bioko Biodiversity Protection Program BBPP D 267876,267112 contact bioko.org Might be able to offer you some information. GETESA cnr Calle de Rey Boncoro amp CalledeMongomo Those travelling with a SIM-technology mobile phone, you can pick up a SIM card here. Ministry of Culture, Tourism amp Information Ave 3 de Agosto Doesn't have much info, but it's a mandatory stop for tourists because of the travel and photography permits US 40 that you'll need to show at the many roadblocks. Proser 093163...
Ali Sabieh
Ali Sabieh is an active yet intimate town with a distinct Somali flavour. If coming from Djibouti City, you'll find it pretty relaxing and, to a certain extent, photogenic and full of attitude. You can bunk down at the Hotel Gogareh m 825308 s with shared bathroom DFrlOOO , just off the main square. It features shoe-box-sized yet functional rooms set around a courtyard. If your purse strings are a little more relaxed, La Palmeraie d'Ali Sabieh 426198 r DFr6000 g , on the outskirts of town, has...
POST TELEPHONE Gjd
The postal service is reliable, but can be slow outside N'Djam na. DHL and EMS rapid-par-cel services are available in major towns. Sotel, the national telecom company, has phone offices in most towns, charging US 1.65 per minute for calls to Europe and about US 0.50 for local calls. Private telephone offices, usuallyjust a guy with a mobile and a sign, are common everywhere and charge the same, though late-night rates on international calls drop. Buying a SIM card for your own mobile costs...
Obock Les Sept Frres
The last significant town before the border with Eritrea, Obock exudes a kind of 'last frontier' feel. There is nothing of tangible interest here, but it's an obvious staging post for those who want to travel to Eritrea or for those coming from Assab, in Eritrea's south. If you decide to stay, you can lay your head at the basic Campement de Ras Bir - Ougef 816034,822446 huts with full board DFr8000 , about 5km east of the centre. Location is top-notch -it's right on the beach. Accommodation is...
Tej Beats
If authentic experiences are what you're after, then there's no better place than a tej beat pronounced 'tedj bet' to down the famed golden elixir honey wine . Traditionally for men, women should keep low profiles. They lack signs, so ask locals for directions. Topia Tej Beat 10am-10pm Off Haile Ge-breselassie Rd, tucked up an alley behind the Axum Hotel, this is Addis' top tej beat and the only one to serve pure honey tej. A small flask Birr3.50 on an empty stomach had our heads spinning....
Sleeping Eating 1
Thebe River Camping 13 625 0314 Kasane-Kazun-gula Rd camping per person US 8 PJ H Provides a green riverside setting, along with a bar, meals and Chobe wildlife drives and cruises US 15 . Sedudu Guest House si 6251748 sedudu botsnet .bw President Ave, Kasane s d from US 38 50 PI gl This budget-orientated hotel has a variety of rooms featuring varying amenities. Liya Guest Lodge 71 -756903 liyaglo botsnet.bw 1198 TholoCres, Kasane s d from US 38 56 This warm and friendly family-run lodge is a...
Media 1
Although no-one doubts the potential of mass media such as newspapers, radio stations or TV to be a tool for development in Africa, the media industry on the continent is beset by many problems. Access is one, as many people still live in rural areas, with little or no infrastructure. Many corrupt governments also ruthlessly suppress all but state-controlled media. Many Africans feel that reporting on the continent by the international media paints an unfair portrait of Africa as a hopeless...
Tours Yrh
Travel restrictions for foreigners in the Nile Valley make independent travel challenging, so consider taking a tour. One highly recommended and energetic local tour operator is Montasser Mohammed 012 335 9105 montasser200 yahoo.com . He can arrange just about anything to anywhere for individual travellers.
The North 1
The fourth-largest city in Ghana and the major transport hub for the north, Tamale tends to be a stopover for travellers on their way to Mole National Park or overland to Burkina Faso but the presence of several good-value hotels makes it a good base to explore other spots in the area. Catholic Guesthouse D 22265 Gumbihini Rd r US 7.50 pi IJil There are no top sheets, no bath towels and no luxury, but who needs it at this price Rooms surround a leafy garden bar and lounge area. It's about 2.5km...
SLEEPING Lcr
There is little accommodation in N'Djam na, and nothing that costs even remotely close to what it should. Within 72 hours of arriving in N'Djam na you must register at the s ret Ave F lix bou it's a relatively hassle-free process except for returning to your hotel to get the forms stamped , requiring two photos. The immigration office 7am-3pm Mon-Thu, 7am-noon Fri is on the right side of the compound at the back. An Autorisation de Circuler travel permit is only required for travel to the far...
Parque Nacional Da Kissama Around
Kissama also spelt Qui ama , situated 70km south of Luanda, is Angola's most accessible and well-stocked wildlife park. Inaugurated as a nature reserve in 1938 and upgraded to a national park in 1957, this 990,000-hectare swathe of coastal savannah punctuated by gnarly baobab trees is home to elephants, water buffalo, indigenous palanca antelopes and a precarious population of nesting sea turtles. Despite years of poaching and neglect during the civil war, Kissama remains at the forefront of...
Transport In Burundi
Located about 12km north of the city centre, Bujumbura International Airport BJM has flights connecting Bujumbura with Kigali Rwanda , Kampala Uganda , Nairobi Kenya and Air Burundi 223460 airbdi cbinf.com Ave du Ethiopian Airlines 226820 www.flyethiopian.com Ave Victoire Kenya Airways 223542 www.kenya-airways.com Place de I'lndependance Rwandair Express 251850 www.rwandair.com Ave du Commerce The main crossing point is between Kayanza and Butare on the main road linking Bujumbura and Kigali....
The Coast
Many travellers looking for a little R amp R from Accra, only 32km away, or the rigours of travel elsewhere in the country swear by the long stretch of white sand and the laid-back backpacker Rasta vibe at Kokrobite. The renowned Academy of African Music amp Arts AAMAL offers courses from two hours to three months in traditional African music, drumming, and dance and live performances on some weekend afternoons. It's not advisable to walk on the beach with valuables at night. A home away from...
Guineabissau Directory
Accommodation in Bissau is expensive and offers poor value about US 20 for primitive doubles and US 70 for rather decrepit 'mid-range' digs . Outside the capital, the situation improves. A clean, decent room with electricity and running water might cost US 25, or US 35 with air-conditioning, while bucket water and a foam pad for two people costs US 10 to 15. Specialist hunting and fishing camps are scattered around the country, and generally cost US 50 to US 100 per person for room and full...
Snapshot
Elephant population 500,000 approx GDP US 2,092,300,800,000 Unemployment 10.5 Inflation rate 8.4 Economic growth 4.6 Internet users 32,765,700 Population over 15 years old who can't read 40 'Africa always brings something new.' Long consigned to the 'boring but important' section of newspapers and TV programmes, it seems that African issues have enjoyed something of a renaissance in the world media in recent years. Whatever you think about rock stars getting involved in world politics, there's...
Franceville
Franceville may be the third most populated centre in Gabon, but spread over rolling green hills cut with laterite roads it feels more like a lovely little town than anything else. It's well worth a few days stay, especially as the jump-ing-off point for the amazing sights around the stunning Bat k Plateau. The main drag, Carrefour Poto-Poto, named after the bustling central market, is happening, and the Cristal Motel 670488 d US 36 is a good option for sleeping, as it manages to be both right...
Western Cameroon
Cameroon's lush western provinces are the most bountiful parts of the country. There's a riot of vegetation and a colourful selection of produce in the markets. Douala is the jumping-off place for Mt Cameroon and the Ring Road, as well as the lazy beaches around Limbe. Throw in several tribal kingdoms and sultanates, and it's a traveller's paradise. Yaound might be Cameroon's capital, but Douala is the economic powerhouse. With little in the way of tourist attractions, it's a swelteringly hot...
Bissau
Despite ruined monuments, cavernous potholes and regular blackouts, Bissau has its charms. The sleepy, crumbling colonial heart boasts wide, mango-shaded streets, some attractive, pastel-coloured buildings, and lively caf s where the country's elite gather day after day. Best of all, there's a distinct absence of crime or hustle. Bissau's main drag is the wide Ave Amilcar Cabral, running between the port and Pra a dos Her is Nacionais. On the northwestern edge of the town centre is the Mercado...
ORIENTATION Ffv
Djibouti City is small enough to explore on foot. The centre comprises the European Quarter to the north and the African Quarter to the south. There are no street numbers and not all streets have names. Northwest of town, a causeway known as L'Escale leads to a small marina, which is the point of departure for trips to Tadjoura and Obock. Northeast of town is the Plateau du Serpent, where many of the foreign embassies can be found. The train station is about 1km north of the centre, while...